Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - Engine Staggers Or Cuts Out Above 4200 - 4500 RPM
Apr 4, 2015
Here's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
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Still cant seem to fix this 87 ranger 2.9... NEW fuel reg, fuel press reg, rebuilt computer.cold it will start and run fine.then it will shut down with in 5 to 18 miles then you cant hear the front or rear pumps at all!. Let it sit over night and your off again.. Can't get any codes.. Can a pump over heat and shut both off??
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The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
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I have a 2006 2.3 ranger motor runs fine at idle and as I ride down the road the motor just cuts off. If I pump gas it will take off again and in 3 miles it will do it again. After 20 miles running good it will cut off again. Replaced coil pack, fuel pump, Cam sensor, Idle control sensor! What else could be causing this?
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Driving a 2008 Ranger XLT 3.0. Starts runs and drives fine, how ever it seems to have a tinny ruff idle.
What I noticed is when in park or neutral when I idle it up @ 3000 RPMs it seems like it runs on 3 cylinders and sort of cuts in and out very quickly. Is this a protection thing on the ranger.
Running on the road it kicks down and runs thru all the gears normally from idle all the way up to 5000 RPMs. Just would like to make sure this is normal.
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The Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
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I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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I have an '02 Ranger 2.3L 40k miles that will not turn over even with a good battery. When the key is inserted and turned, all the dash lights and headlights come on but the engine does not turn over. Could it be....
*Power Control Module?
*Ignition Module?
*Key?
*Whatever the part is called that reads the Key's security code.
*Clutch Switch?
I am trying to avoid getting the run-around at the dealer and be able to drive to work on Monday!
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2002 Ranger XLT, Super Cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC V-6, 5-speed manual transmission. Noticed burnt oil smell. Checking under truck revealed oil drips on garage floor from rear area of engine. Traced to rear corner of left valve cover, but can't see enough of the rear of the engine top-end to say for sure where it may be coming from.
Before I put the truck in the shop for repair, where the oil may potentially be coming from on this particular engine? (I checked; the valve cover fasteners are secure) Any "chronic" oil leak problems with this model engine, or anything?
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higher rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
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I have a harley f150 supercharged with 112000 miles.. I notice that when i get on the gas good and get the rpm around 4200, I get a vibration in the gas pedal while it's in that rpm range.. It just does it at that rpm and at no other times does it do it.. what could it be ?????
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I have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
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Here's the thing my Saturn is from 1997 and every time I get on the high way it and go over 4500 rpm it popes a fuse this results in the motor stopping steering wheel locking up and making our very dangerous to pull on the side of the on ramp to replace the fuse. How to fix this other than replacing the same 10 amp fuse over and over
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Our Ranger, 2002, 4 cyl. 2.3 5 speed is shutting down while driving. This has happened twice very recently. Both times on interstate at highway speed. First it loses power then completely shuts down. After stopping, turning key "off" it restarts and runs fine. It does take a longer time to crank before starting.
It is not throwing any codes and the CE is not coming on. I suspect the fuel pump is shutting down. Seems like fuel pressure loss is reason for loss of power? Then extended cranking to restart is the initial build up? What else could it be? If not the pump itself, is there something that would take away power from the pump then get reset?
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I just got my grandpa's 2002 Ford Ranger Edge after waiting years to obtain it. It runs great the only problem is that there is NO power to the radio what so ever. The truck belonged to the family and every one drove it but no one knows what happened.. There is no power to Fuse 28 however 12V to all other fuses that have to deal with the radio.
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I am installing a used tranny in the ranger. According to the salvage yard the tranny fluid and filter was removed and fluid drained from the torque converter. How am I supposed to fill the torque converter?
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02 Ranger with 3.0 Flex motor, 375K+ miles. Been chasing an issue for a while now, but am about at the end of my diagnosing capabilities. Issue started with a misfire on 5 and rough running engine with no codes showing up. Now the motor is getting worse.
Idle a little rough and no power when accelerating hard. The engine sounds like a popcorn popper under hard acceleration. Motor revs up to 4K but does not pull or shift gears until I let off the gas.
The code that initially showed up indicated a bad Camshaft Position Sensor. Changed that and the Sync assembly - as per instrucions, exactly positioned same as old one. New codes showed up - P1152, P0175, P0171. Cleaned the MAF, rail fuel pressure OK, can't find any vacuum leaks, replaced both upstream ox sensors, and changed #5 ,6 injectors.
Motor still runs the same - like crap, like a corn popper on acceleration, smooths out if only slightly accelerating, but stumbles n bumps on steady cruise speed over/around 60 mph - and no codes showing at present.
I really, really don't want, nor can I afford, to take it to the dealership, but I may be forced to if I can't figure this out sometime quite soon. I make my living with this truck so, no truck, no work till this issue is solved.
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