Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 Engine Won't Turn Over With A Good Battery
Jul 31, 2005
I have an '02 Ranger 2.3L 40k miles that will not turn over even with a good battery. When the key is inserted and turned, all the dash lights and headlights come on but the engine does not turn over. Could it be....
*Power Control Module?
*Ignition Module?
*Key?
*Whatever the part is called that reads the Key's security code.
*Clutch Switch?
I am trying to avoid getting the run-around at the dealer and be able to drive to work on Monday!
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I just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
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I have a 96 Ranger . Neither my cigarette lighter or the auxiliary right beneath it works. The fuse checks good at the panel and I also used one of the penlight 12 volt testers and it shows no voltage on the lighter housing. Could there be another fuse under the hood that shares that circuit or do I have an open somewhere and need to tear down the dashboard? I haven't been inside that dashboard since I replace my cluster and the lighter worked after doing so. But I wish to avoid going back in there.
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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So my car just plain won't turn over. The battery is good, however the weird thing is, it's orang even click when I try to turn it over.
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I have a 96' ranger that has been missing quite regularly. The vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it, but has been taken care of regularly by me since 75,000.
Problem: When I start the vehicle, the engine takes a little bit to find the idle. It spits and fumbles around some until it finds a somewhat rough idle. Often, when I first start driving in the morning, the vehicle really jumps around due to misfiring. Even after running smoothly for awhile, the vehicle with sporadically misfire with no rhyme or reason. This is particularly true when climbing a grade. When sitting at a red light and idleing in gear, you can definitely feel the truck shaking from side to side. Also, when idling in gear, the battery gauge on the dash fluctuates, but when the vehicle is in park the battery gauge doesn't fluctuate...it just idles a little rough.
I had the Ranger to a garage and had them check the battery and alternator connections and ground to try and figure out what is making the battery gauge fluctuate...alternator and battery checked out...no diagnosis for fluctuation.
I replaced all plugs and wires and also checked the coil pack. One of the coils (#6) had some build-up in the top. I cleaned it out and replaced all the plug wires and everything snapped in place and fit fine.
The garage did tell me that an error code came up with the EGR valve and or sensor. They didn't seem to concerned about it. Do the EGR valve could be the cause of all the stuttering and misfiring going on with the ranger? I really don't know where else to look. Maybe replace the coil pack?
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2002 Ranger XLT, Super Cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC V-6, 5-speed manual transmission. Noticed burnt oil smell. Checking under truck revealed oil drips on garage floor from rear area of engine. Traced to rear corner of left valve cover, but can't see enough of the rear of the engine top-end to say for sure where it may be coming from.
Before I put the truck in the shop for repair, where the oil may potentially be coming from on this particular engine? (I checked; the valve cover fasteners are secure) Any "chronic" oil leak problems with this model engine, or anything?
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Here's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higher rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
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I have 2005 Ranger 4.OL just recently when I accelerate the battery light comes on. No light when driving normal. Stopped by O'reillys had them check the battery, alternator, starter. They said battery bad. So I dropped 130.00 on new battery. Light still comes on when accelerate.
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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Got a problem with the '94 Ranger. Something keeps draining the battery. For reference, the truck is an XL, manual 4x4, 4.0L, 5-speed. I've been trying to keep driving it so I could try and diagnose the issue. At first, as long as I cranked it every day, it stayed charged up, but now it has gotten worse. It will run down in an hour or two. I know figuring this kind of problem out is tough, but I thought maybe some others of you may have experience in this area that might benefit me.
Based on a gut feeling, my first idea was that there was something going on inside the AC compressor. So, I disconnected the compressor, but that wasn't it. My plan at the moment is to replace the wiring harness between the battery and the starter. The current harness is pieced together (not my doing), and whether it fixes this problem or not, it needs to be done. Another thing I've thought about is the ignition switch. It acts "funny" to me, but it has never really given any trouble.
My son needs to take this vehicle back to college with him in a couple weeks, and I need to get it figured out.
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Is there a fusible link from the alternator to the battery? The new alternator that I put on and got tested is not charging the battery. Was wondering if it could be a fusible link but I couldn't find it. Where it is located on a 2000 ranger?
Also, I put a DC volt meter on the negative side of the battery and the positive side of the CHARGING wire that would be connected to the alternator and got the same reading as if I put the meter on the positive of the battery.
Does this mean the fusible link is good?
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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98 Mazda B4000 4.0 4x4
I bought this truck about two months ago and it has been great no problems starts right up and runs like a top. I was installing a 4 channel amp yesterday on and off and the dome light was on all day as the doors would periodically be opened or closed so it never did that cycle of 10 min or whatever when the lights turns off. This is what killed the battery.
I had my neighbor jump me and after a few minutes of charging it started right up and idled for about a minute long enough he left and parked, then it stalled. I started it about another 6 times before the battery died again. Every time it started fine then would idle between 1-10 sec then start to sputter and eventually die. Pressing the accelerator pedal only killed it faster.
I got a new battery today as the other charges so that I could fix it today without missing work again tomorrow. Unfortunately it does the same thing I was hoping that the voltage was just low or the polarity flipped or something on the other battery.
To sum it up the truck never gave previous symptoms just simply ran too low (battery never DIED the lights came on just clicked when starting) on power and now stalls when started which it does immediately no long cranking.
The twist; truck has an aftermarket alarm by Python. Problem is I don't know anything about the alarm or if it comes with an immobilizer. I am in the process of trying to figure this out but need to pull dash or something to find the "brain"? Never had an alarm like this I disconnected the clear square that adjusts the sensitivity hoping that was it but I don't know where or what I assume the brain of the alarm is.
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The battery light in my well used 1997 Ranger came on a few weeks ago. Only use the truck on the weekends. Battery reads 12v. Alternator putting out 14v. Replaced terminal clamps as they were in bad shape. Light is still on.
Weak battery possibly? Does it need to read higher than 12v for the light to be off, I wonder?
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2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
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I just finished putting in aftermarket A/C in the 2004 Ranger my dad gave my son. It's a 2.3L, STD transmission. It was running GREAT before the project started. I installed new battery as part of the project. When I started it back up it ran for 2 or 3 seconds then died. I now cranks, but does not fire at all.
I have tried one of the key reprogramming sequences (turn key to "ON" 8 times) with no success. Would it crank at all if it were a key security issue? Is there anything I need to reset anywhere else, like in the air intake system?
It's either not getting spark or not getting air. The fact that it ran for a couple of seconds has me confused. Would it run at ALL if there was a key security problem?
I had to remove and reinstall the air filter housing and ducting. Is there anything else I need to do to with the air intake system?
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my 03 ranger 4.0l was working properly and all of a sudden I am having an issue. The battery light is on, and the volt gauge is just above L. With my multi-meter I am showing 14 volts on the output stud on the alternator, and 13.5 volts at the battery while idling. When I turn the lights/fan on I show minimal draw at the battery. Not sure if these are good checks but I figured a good place to start. Where/what should I begin checking?
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