Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 3.0L Sounds Like Fan Belt Squeal
Jan 19, 2005
After about 1 minute after starting the truck it sounds like the fan belt is squealing..(below 30 deg outside) Only its not the fan belt as I replaced it. Does not do it when it is engine is operating temperature. Have checked all of the Pulleys which seem to be all right. The frequency of the squealing sound is about 1/3 the engine RPM and will go away above 2k when it does do it. Stopping at a stop light after about 45 seconds it really starts to get loud. Can a Fan Clutch do this.. I beleive that this engine has a timing chain right?
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Allright, I seem to be having these very strange sounds at idle. Mostly when I am in Drive and waiting at a red light. In Park, it isn't as bad it seems.
One sound is knocking. A kinda slow one and irregular. Not a motor knock tho. Doesn't sound like that. It also kinda clicks from under. So, those both sounds come from under or the sides of the truck.
Should I worry about this? I've had these sounds since I've got the truck. Sometimes louder than usuall.
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The T/O bearing makes a high pitch squeal until you put light pressure on clutch then it will go away. Does this thing have a preload on bearing at all times or should there be free play like in the old days??
Another thing that has me wondering is when I push clutch all the way in it actually puts a load on the engine. Having T/O bearing so bad it puts a load on the engine?
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder and the other day on my way home all of a sudden sounded like a lawnmower, it was very sluggish and would take twice as long to get moving,it also smelled like gas and I used a quarter of a tank in about 24 miles. Someone said it could be the ignition coils...
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Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
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I have a noise in my rear end, if I grab the bed of the truck, and rock the body back and forth, I hear a clunk, almost sounds like a wheel is loose, but checked them, all good, also checked the U-joints, and pulled the driveshaft to grease the spindle. Thinking it could be in the third member, maybe the Differential pinion shaft, or the lock bolt......
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I have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
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2002 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder Manuel Drive, whenever you push on the accelerator makes a high pitch squeal. Changed Idler pulley and belt, No luck.
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I replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
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When I turn on my heater full blast the most god awful squealing commences. Where to start spraying the grease?
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I've tried every variation of installing the timing belt on my '91 2.3L Ranger, still not in. The belt seems as if it's too short but I've been told that it "barely" fits, no kidding! I've pulled the crank balancer/timing trigger off and put it back on three or four times already. What's the trick? Everytime I get it close I'm off a tooth or more. Just frustrated, tired of hitching a ride to work.
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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I have a 1998 ranger 4.0 and about a year after getting it the belt started to squeak so far if have replaced the belt, replaced the tensioner, and cleaned and wire brushed all the pulleys to remove glazing. And it still squeaks and its annoying and kinda embarrassing...
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What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
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A C-note for those 2 pieces of nothing seems ridiculous. Considering sanding and painting instead.
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So i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
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2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
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I have a 2003 Ranger 2.3l with 327k miles on it. I recently replaced the belt and now it doesnt want to start. The belt is on correctly and tensioner is tight. The battery is fully charged its just not firing up and starting. All connections are good, the ac and power steering pulleys are relatively new. Now i have been stuck tryin to fix it for a week...
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I recently bought a 2003 Ford Ranger. What I want to do is unhook the seat belt chime. In the past with the other 3 Rangers I owned I unplugged it from under the seat. But when I unplugged this one the light for the air bag stayed on. I like the freedom to choose and I don't care for the chime.
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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Couple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
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