Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - Suddenly Died - No Codes?
May 13, 2012
My 2001 2.5 manual suddenly died. The starter turns the engine over, but I don't get a) fuel (changed the fuel pump) b) spark c) Engine check light. When I plug the OBDII reader in, it simply says "ERROR". No codes, no other language.
While trying to figure it out this morning, after trying to start it 50 times, it actually fired for a few seconds, but then died again.
I checked relays and fuses and nothing seemed bad. I swapped relays around too.
I unplugged the battery, then the computer, but nothing got it to fire again.
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My Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
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My '93 Ford Ranger suddenly died while I was driving, no sputtering or bucking, it was just as though I had turned the key off. When i tried to restart, the engine would turn over but not engage. It's as though the engine is either getting no gas and/or spark. My shade-tree mechanic says he got a diagnostic code that was #539 followed by #1 seven times at two second intervals. he says he ran the test 6 times and got the same result every time. What this means?
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Ford Ranger 20012.5LManual Transmission4 Cylinder Engine4x2 Drivetrain~160K Miles
While driving home tonight, my truck suddenly lost power, as if I turned the key to turn off the motor. There was a beep, the one that goes off whenever I open the door while the key is in or the light is on, then the "Check Gauge" light came on (the one that warns me when my gas tank is near empty), following that the yellow Battery light came on and finally the orange "Check Engine" light came on.
I pulled out into an empty dirt lot, but that was pretty difficult as the power steering was gone (since the truck was off). After parking the truck, I turned the key to the actual "Off" position, pulled the key out and gave the truck a few moments. I put the key back in and tried to get my truck running again. Of course, it didn't work, but I figured it wasn't the battery because it lacked the sputtering motor turn. There's that and the battery is under two years old. The truck seemed like it really wanted to turn and start, but it lacked a certain something to get it up and over that last hill to vehicular movement. I don't think I was lacking gas, since it should have given me the red "Check Gauge" light and even if I was, I know I have another 5 miles before I have to fuel up (I would know since I've tested it to see how far it would go on that light). I was pretty low on gas when this happened, so the thought came to me that maybe my gauge was starting to get a bit wonky. Then a more realistic thought came to mind.
I've had this bad habit for a while, where I fill my gas tank to only about a quarter or a half at the most. Part of it stems from a paranoia of having somebody siphon gas out of my truck at night; yes, I could have fixed this by installing a lock on the gas cap (albeit, my counter-argument is that it's better to have them take the little bit of gas than have hundreds of dollars of body damage from an aggressive thief). Anyway, I've heard that this habit of filling the tank below half can speed up fuel pump failures. Despite this, I've had no other symptoms of a fuel pump failure coming, as I haven't experienced any issues with surging/bucking.
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right in assuming it's a fuel pump failure?
2) Are these instructions to fuel pump replacement accurate? (Yes, I know the DIY Matrix provides every reason on why I should avoid doing this myself, but my wallet I'm itching for a project.
3) If it's not a fuel pump failure, what could it be?
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My friend's 1997 4 cyl ranger died and won't start. Cranks fine with no codes on OBD2. Was running fine before it died.
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98 Mazda B4000 4.0 4x4
I bought this truck about two months ago and it has been great no problems starts right up and runs like a top. I was installing a 4 channel amp yesterday on and off and the dome light was on all day as the doors would periodically be opened or closed so it never did that cycle of 10 min or whatever when the lights turns off. This is what killed the battery.
I had my neighbor jump me and after a few minutes of charging it started right up and idled for about a minute long enough he left and parked, then it stalled. I started it about another 6 times before the battery died again. Every time it started fine then would idle between 1-10 sec then start to sputter and eventually die. Pressing the accelerator pedal only killed it faster.
I got a new battery today as the other charges so that I could fix it today without missing work again tomorrow. Unfortunately it does the same thing I was hoping that the voltage was just low or the polarity flipped or something on the other battery.
To sum it up the truck never gave previous symptoms just simply ran too low (battery never DIED the lights came on just clicked when starting) on power and now stalls when started which it does immediately no long cranking.
The twist; truck has an aftermarket alarm by Python. Problem is I don't know anything about the alarm or if it comes with an immobilizer. I am in the process of trying to figure this out but need to pull dash or something to find the "brain"? Never had an alarm like this I disconnected the clear square that adjusts the sensitivity hoping that was it but I don't know where or what I assume the brain of the alarm is.
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So a couple days ago I started my truck and it fired up like normal, but then sputtered out and died after a few seconds. I tried starting it up again and it did the same thing. I tried once more and it started up fine and I drove away.
It sounds like my truck is running out of breath or something and just sputtering out. Runs fine once it turns over though. My issue is that it is happening almost every time I start it now. I have to turn it a couple times before it catches. What this might be?
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I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
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I have a 91 Ranger that the A/C was working great in but all of a sudden it stopped working even the fan. I turned it of and back on and it started again but then just stopped for good I can get the fan to work sometime, but no cold air. What it might be?
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Well it all started when I was having starter issues my starter died and my solenoid was just clicking and after time there was no power at all to anything in the truck i have replaced the solenoid and starter and check battery and cleaned post and terminals. I am going to replace my negative cable as it was pretty bad but if this still does not work, so what to look for. The truck is an 87 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed with a 2.9....
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
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I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
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Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
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I drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
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I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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