Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - Driver Side Front Brake Line Broken / Replacement
Sep 15, 2015
My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
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I have a 2001 ranger 3.0 auto 2wd and the abs light is on. this is what i have done so far. I had to replace all the front end joints so i took the front sensors and ohmed them and got continuity and voltage when i ran a metal past them and the same for the rear on the diff. so i figure they are fine. the wires to the frame look ok and i the truck has no damage so i figure the wires are fine.
I checked to see if the fuses are installed after I got the fuse layout and all the fuses are there and good. So I took it to advance auto and it came back with everything bad sensors motor controller and if anything else could be bad with the abs it said it was. I told them it is impossible for all of it to be bad. so it must be the controller. No I'm thinking the controller it the box attached to the abs pump and lines at the power distribution box under the hood.
Can I just remove that box and replace it with little difficulty or will i have parts fly out all over the place if i remove that box from the pump? All the pictures i see the the abs controller don't look the same as the one i have on my abs pump.
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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I'm normally in the bullnose section, but recently started working on my father-in-law's 96 ford ranger. He wanted me to replace the front rotors.
I replaced the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to replace the driver's side, I noticed the cotter pin and castle nut were missing. A nail was in the cotter pin's place. I backed off the spindle nut and found that the threads were eaten up, as was most of the spindle with various gouges and nicks.
1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 ......
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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When driving down the road, there is a constant "thud thud thud" coming from the front driver's side of my 99 Ranger. I've been looking online for about two hours now, going back and forth to my truck to see if I can figure out the problem. All I've come up with is that it's the sway bar links. they're both disconnected, and I'm going to replace them anyway, but would that cause the constant thudding?
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Bought a 2002 ranger with a four liter in it. Didn't notice until actually going off-road there is something wrong with the four wheel drive. In 4 high it will drive good for a random distance then a loud bang, pop, comes from what feels like it's the driver front tire. The faster you're moving the worse it is. It's not consistent at all.
Replaced the transfer case shift motor and both CV axles. Still does it. Walked next to the truck while it's moving and the front tires look like something is in a bind and it's causing the bang. Beating my head against the wall at this point.
On a side note it has something wrong with the tranny. Taking off it feels like someone bumped the rear, and after about twenty minutes of driving od light starts blinking and it shifts hard from first to second. Kill it, cures that specific problem just not the takeoff problem. Not sure if this is all related. Pulled the pan and refilled with as much fluid as came out. Which was a dark red. Still having same issues.
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The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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I've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
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I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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I have a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L, it's the truck I learned to drive in (stick at 13yo) and the 1st car I crashed too... So now this baby is almost 30 years old and recently had a minor restoration...
Engine was pulled out and all gaskets were changed, spark plugs, wire... All that stuff... It has been running pretty good, however last week a water line broke on the Left side near the spark plugs (if you are looking at the truck)
Since then It has absolutely Zero power. The slightest hill and even when pedal to the floor will lose power. Yesterday went from the start of a hill at 60mph in 4th to 20mph in 2nd because it didn't have the guts to go 1/3 mile uphill... I checked everything I could, and my brother took it to the exhaust guy who made a small hole on the Catalytic Converter and said it was good, but he could tell it was running too rich...
I replaced some of the vacuum lines last night, I found a lose one on the fuel pressure regulator (I think that's what it is, Its towards the engine firewall on top).
Idles beautifully, drives great, no rough shifting, pinging or knocking, no misfires. So that's what has me stumped... Runs great but just no power... Also before water line broke it was running fine with power...
1987 Ford Ranger
2.3L FI
5sp manual, Rwd
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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2003 Ford excursion 7.3. Above the drivers side front tire, the hard inner plastic made contact with the hard line above the frame.. Cut the line. I can't tell if this line is 1 piece towards the reservoir since its hidden from my quick inspection. Looking for a schematic on replacing this line?
This happened after my wife took the truck back to the sugar bush.. She must have been hitting jumps or something
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My left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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I've got an 08' Ranger FX4. Recently I had the drivers-side headlight go out. Today I replaced the light, and while I was there, I decided to check every bulb on the truck. Everything else works, but I noticed the 2 factory "foglights" will not come on. This is a fairly recent development, because I use those lights quite often.
Even thought they don't cast a huge amount of light, here in the Vancouver area, winters are dark & rainy, so I think 4 points of light as opposed to 2 points is a benefit. To activate those lights, you pull on the headlight selector switch. Do those lights have their own dedicated circuit with fuse? Or does this sound like a switch problem?
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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I replace the frond brake pads. Press the piston caliper using a c- clamp. When my brake job is done, start the engine, pump the brake now the yellow light come on.
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