I'm looking for a part number for the rubber stop that mounts behind the clutch pedal on the firewall for a 2001 Ford Ranger 4cyl 2.3L 5spd Manual. Can't seem to find it on the web. It looks like it snaps/presses into a mounting hole behind the pedal. The original one decided to disintegrate and now I get a nice knocking noise when ever the pedal is depressed.
View 7 Replies1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
I've had my truck a few years now but for 2 it was basically parked. When I started trying to use it again I am having issues with the clutch now. When it is cold everything is fine, but on hot days or after I have been driving for a while It will lock the pedal up and will not let me dis-engage the clutch at all. Sometimes when it does eventually let the pedal down it will go to the floor and stay there for a few seconds until it slaps back up and engages slamming the truck into gear.
I have yet to try much. I'm not good at working on anything other than stereos in cars but I am willing to try. My thought is some water got into the system and is boiling in the lines but I am not sure. Places to start? I really need my truck going and the couple places I've taken it dont even want to try it seems like.
My buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 RepliesThis is unusual. After driving into town for new tires, the clutch pedal was hard and I could not depress it after the tire tech parked the truck. It did finally depress with a pop, though the pedal functioned there after the clutch did not function properly.
At times it seemed to be ok at other times it seemed weak. I stopped by Autozone and checked the fluid, seemed low and I added some. Continued home not completely confident that I would make it. Had to make one stop along the way.
Once again the clutch pedal was stuck at the top and would not depress. I finally slid the safety switch up the clutch shaft to start the truck, when the engine started the pedal depressed. I was able to continue home but the clutch is not functioning properly.
Installed a new clutch and slave today. Kept the same master cylinder.
The problem I am having is that the clutch pedal will not go to the floor, and therefore the truck won't start. The slave is moving back and forth roughly 3/8 inch, maybe more. I am pretty confident that there is no air in the system.
If I loosen the pressure plate a little, the clutch will go to the floor. But tighten it back up, and it again only goes down about 75%. This is a late '95 so it has the self adjusting clutch. I did get the correct kit for it, as well as slave. It's like the self adjusting part is too far adjusted and won't let my slave travel as far as needed.
In troubleshooting, I did notice that I failed to get the dowels in the flywheel aligned in the pressure plate. I am old school and not used to dowels in the flywheel! The dowels are not hitting anything and are not preventing the pressure plate from seating on the flywheel. But it is something I'm going to fix if I have to pull the trans again.
For reference, I replaced the clutch because the slave cylinder was hanging up and preventing the clutch from getting fully released. Aka clutch slipping.
I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesI have an IS 350 but I am trying to get the part number for the dead pedal for the 2014 + GS F sport. I tried calling my local lexus dealer (which is 50 miles away) and they won't give me the part number over the phone w/o a vin number. Now if someone can ask their parts deptn for a vin number, it can be provided.
View 5 RepliesSo I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesStarted up my truck today, accel pedal didn't want to move, after giving it some more force it eventually became "unstuck". Now, the real issue I'm having is from a dead stop, in 1st gear, as I'm letting out the clutch the truck boggs down as if I'm not trying to accelerate. I'm giving it as much as I normally would as I'm letting out the clutch but the motor will either die or take a couple seconds before it starts to go. Once I'm moving I don't notice any problems clutching through gears. The check engine light IS on now, however I don't have any diagnostic gear or really any tools for that matter. 1998 2.4L 5-speed...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 passat and I want to get a new remote, where do I locate the part number for my remote?
View 4 RepliesParking brake lever for the park brake on my 2001 F250 srw. Both are rusted up but im having trouble finding the part.
View 1 Replies Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
I'm finding that the rear door lock actuator for the first gen is quite easy to find, but I'm unable to find a part for the front which I'm in need of.
Looking for the part number available for the Front Door Lock Actuatorof a 2004 Santa Fe.
2001 12v vr6 here, found my leak, now I need to know what the heck this is! Is this even removable?! It's basically a plastic elbow that connects to the radiator on the driver side, I have a photo. I tried fixing this crack with some glue and tape (It was late and couldn't get any temperature friendly glue), as you can see in the picture, it's covered in electric tape, and the hot coolant burned right through it all.
Another problem I had is my fuse box, burning through my fan fuse, looks something like this, the fuse was burned, but after placing a new fuse (just for contact), the fan worked, so I'm guessing a new fuse box is where to start ?
What is the part number for the drivers side aluminum tranny bracket(automatic)? Or a how to to remove it, cuz mine is fractured badly and needs replaced.
View 3 Replies2001 4.0 4x4 auto trans... Problem, tranny judders when coming to a stop moving at around 3-4mph. Engine drops to around 500rpm and maybe one second later returns to normal as the tranny seems to disengage. No judder or shifting problem when accelerating.
View 5 Replies1999 ranger 155k 3.0 flex fuel. 304 is misfire in cyl number 4... I replaced the plugs and wires and checked the coil. the compression in cyl 2, 4, 5, 6 and got 80-90 psi so they are consistent but consistently bad right, it may be my compression tester.
The #4 plug was spotless after running 5 min, the #5 plug had some black on it already. Its hard to tell but it seems I had fuel residue on the plugs on cyl 5 and 6 but none on 4? Whats next pulling the intake to get to the injector?
first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
Whenever it rains a substantial amount, like all day I go out to my 92 Ranger and get in and notice the passenger side rubber floor mat has a puddle of water on it. I look under the floor mat and only the center of the carpet there is wet. I see it's getting the edge of that side of the headliner wet and ruining the new headliner had redone. I didn't realize there was water leaking until I got my headliner redone and put back in. It very well could have been leaking causing the headliner cloth to all tear. It's wet along the top passenger side where the grab handle is and the plastic trim. I thought it was the rain gutter on top of the roof so I put in some black silicone and some of it stopped but not all.
So I thought it was still leaking at the front corner so I put more silicone in. Don't know yet if that was what it was for sure but I'll find out tomorrow because it's raining pretty good right now. But just in case where else could it be getting this much water in. If you go through a carwash, or hose it down for awhile, or even drive while it's raining bad it won't get water inside. I'm not convinced it's the rain channel 100% because on the driver's side the putty filling the rain channel on the roof looks worse than the passenger side and there's no water coming in on the driver's side. There is no water coming in the back or on the back carpet or headliner.
I don't see any evidence around the windshield. I can't understand why only the middle of the passenger side carpet is soaked and not the top or under the seat, unless it's just soaking through the rubber floor mat and not drying out. It's getting so frustrating because I can't visibly find any evidence, I have to wait until it rains and then I can't see why it happens. It's ruining my carpet and my new headliner. I want to replace the carpet but want the leak stopped first. Where are common trouble areas on these 92 Rangers for water leakage?
1991 2.3L 5 speed .... Okay here's my list of issues.... At idle will stall out, its almost as if i shut the key off, or sometimes taking off it'll sputter and stall, fuel filter has been changed. Back part of the tranny housing leaks, is there a gasket for that?
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