Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - ABS Light Is On / Front End Joints Replacement
Mar 8, 2015
I have a 2001 ranger 3.0 auto 2wd and the abs light is on. this is what i have done so far. I had to replace all the front end joints so i took the front sensors and ohmed them and got continuity and voltage when i ran a metal past them and the same for the rear on the diff. so i figure they are fine. the wires to the frame look ok and i the truck has no damage so i figure the wires are fine.
I checked to see if the fuses are installed after I got the fuse layout and all the fuses are there and good. So I took it to advance auto and it came back with everything bad sensors motor controller and if anything else could be bad with the abs it said it was. I told them it is impossible for all of it to be bad. so it must be the controller. No I'm thinking the controller it the box attached to the abs pump and lines at the power distribution box under the hood.
Can I just remove that box and replace it with little difficulty or will i have parts fly out all over the place if i remove that box from the pump? All the pictures i see the the abs controller don't look the same as the one i have on my abs pump.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
View 2 Replies
OK, I haven't done a Ranger w/ torsion bars in the front , only coils. What is the best/safest way to do this?
View 1 Replies
I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
View 10 Replies
We have a 2001 passat wagon, V6 and we are told we need to replace right ball joints ...
View 5 Replies
My son and I were doing a transmission flush and while we had it on the lift, I noticed the oil pan gasket was sticking out in the front quite a ways. I assume its time for a new one. Is there anything I need to know having never dropped the pan on this truck? Is this a common issue?
View 14 Replies
I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 with 113,000 and have had it for around 2 years. After I bought it I noticed a grinding sound that appeared to come from the front wheels during braking. On my old 97 Ranger I noticed the same sound and had to replace both rotors because the pads had worn to the rivets! So I pulled the front wheels and found I had about 1/2 inch of pad left and the rotors were shiny on both sides. I recently checked them again and a little less pad but the rotors are still shiny. The pads haven't worn far enough to get to the squealer bars yet.
The sound is like the metal on metal sound some have described during all phases of driving but this only occurs intermittently while braking. It doesn't matter if its light braking or heavy it sounds the same when it does it. I do think I may have a warped rotor on at least one side as the truck shakes some when I apply the brakes, especially at higher speed. I have not checked my front bearings visually but there doesn't appear to be much play if any doing a wheel shake test. What it could be and could it be related to a warped rotor?
View 11 Replies
I replace the frond brake pads. Press the piston caliper using a c- clamp. When my brake job is done, start the engine, pump the brake now the yellow light come on.
View 4 Replies
first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
View 3 Replies
The air bag light stays on & the blower in not working. I checked the fuses good.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
View 4 Replies
I know where the filter is, i know how to bleed off the pressure. Im wondering if those clips are easy to slide off to remove the filter from the lines?
View 7 Replies
My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
View 11 Replies
I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
View 6 Replies
Is it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
View 6 Replies
I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2011 Ranger. It came with Sirius radio which works with the AUX button on the head unit. This setup is not what I am use to. Anyway I want to replace the OEM unit with an aftermarket. My question is will this AUX connection effect an aftermarket radio connection?
View 11 Replies
I've got a '84 ranger that idles super fast for about 30 minutes after a cold start. The truck has been in the family since new and has done it since day one. I am wondering if replacing the electric choke or choke pull down would work. I've got a electric choke replacement but the cover place looks to be attached with rivets not screws. How to remove the choke?
View 3 Replies
Replacing their door mirror with an aftermarket door mirror and not been happy with it?
I have a non-powered door mirror. if I understand my FoMoCo Workshop Manual correctly, I should be able to replace the exterior mirror glass without the need for a completely new mirror assembly.
View 1 Replies
So I have ordered practically a whole front end for my Ranger. I decided to replace all the bushings, ball joints and shocks. Only thing not getting replaced are the springs, steering knuckles/hubs and sway bar. I did find that the lower half of the upper left hand sway bar bushing was completely missing along with the upper left ball joint boot. I was looking into replacing the Rack and pinion bellows/boot. I noticed that there is a line that goes up into the boot where it attaches to the body of the rack and pinion. What is that and does it need to be removed to replace the boot?
View 3 Replies
