Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - A/C Compressor Coming On With Heat?
Nov 25, 2016
I have a 2001 Mazda B3000. The a/c compressor is coming on while I'm running my heat. The air coming out while the heat is on stays warm. However, when I was running the A/C during the summer the air would start blowing out warm after it had been on for a while. Several people told me it may have something to do with the blend door or blend door actuator but both appear to be working fine. What it could be?
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
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i have a 2001 ranger 4x4 the problem is sometimes it will switch into 4 wheel drive and sometimes it wont just hear clicking noise ,i'm preety sure it doenst have a vaccum.
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I have a 1997 Mazda b4000 new plugs wires head gasket an I cleaned out the radiator. My question is the truck runs good but my heat quit workin what could it be all fuse look good. Also there is water coming out of my tailpipe with white smoke. Should I be concerned.
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2001 4.0 4x4 auto trans... Problem, tranny judders when coming to a stop moving at around 3-4mph. Engine drops to around 500rpm and maybe one second later returns to normal as the tranny seems to disengage. No judder or shifting problem when accelerating.
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When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
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My compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
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My aforementioned ranger does not seem to heat up. Unless it is 95 degrees in the shade.... I have movement in the dash meter. Some - it will come off of the bottom - to not quite the c - then immediately dive back to less than cold ( which I realize is not possible) - engine seems to run fine. Use 93 octane or it knocks like a diesel. 135 K - I changed the thermostat. Less movement on gauge now than Before. Coolant level is fine. I read something in another post about the blend door. But my engine temperature doesn't even seem to be getting warm so how would the blend door be effecting that? I am an electrician not a mechanic, however I do all my own mechanic in in self defense. Since I cannot afford mechanics.
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I have a 85 Ranger with a 2.3L engine. I'm not getting any heat. The temperature gauge never moves off of C, except when stuck in stop & go traffic. Even then it doesn't come up much. I tried to fix this last year by putting in a new thermostat, but it didn't work.
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1994 ranger 3.0 .. New: water pump, htr. hoses, radiator, thermostat, pulled & flushed htr. core. (2 year time frame) ....
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I've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
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The air flow with ac and heat is low on my ford ranger. I can hear the blower change speeds, but on high, it barely comes out. The temp is fine and achanges from cold to hot like it should. i had the ac checked out by a shop that that does free checks - no problems with lines or compressor. I replaced the blower motor. The air changes from defrost to floor and all the positions fine, but the air flow out all the vents just isn't what it should be. It was working fine the first couple of days. I've read about the blend door motor, but I haven't read about people having this exact problem. I am almost to the point of bringing is to the dealer, but would rather fix it myself.
2007 Ford Ranger ... 6 cyl. 3.0 L ...
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So I just got done with my first 2 problems of the month with this truck last week. Front end and emissions along with spark plugs. Now, 4 days later this morning, I'm driving the truck trying enjoy the investment, and the AC compressor starts seizing up and burning the clutch. Unrelated but also worth noting, about an hour later the brake pedal gets real soft and the brakes get really sloppy at stopping the truck. The truck also stalled (auto trans) crossing a highway, luckily it was 5am and no traffic was coming.
I'm at $6k invested on a truck with 116,000 miles, and I've only put 6,000 on it. The repairs don't stop, and I've got many more ahead. Like rear suspension, axle, trans, and radiator fluids, and paint, to name a few. Any suggestions on fixing the AC before I drive this truck into a lake?
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I am in the process of removing the lower intake on my 99 Ranger 4.0. I was unscrewing the AC Compressor to get it out of the way and also started to unscrew a bolt on the backside of the compressor because it wasn't moving well due to the metal tube on the backside. I think this is the tube to the condenser? Anyways it started spraying air and green fluid everywhere. I got it to stop for now but if I tighten or loosen the bolt it seems to spray. Also it looks like a green o ring or gasket of sort is showing now which I don't remember. What is it and what should I do?
[URL] .....
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This is a question in general about Fords. My 98 Ranger doesn't do it. He's got a 1987 Ford Mustang 5.0 with original factory a/c. He changed his compressor to a used one and it started running all the time whether the swtich was off or on. He said he switched back to his original compressor and it still does it. I figured it might be something common for Ford a/c systems so I figured I would ask. I'm not sure why it would be unless the mode switch was bad.
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98 ford Ranger 2.5L.
I have not heat from the vents, doesn't get warm at all. If I idle the enginer in 30 Degree weather it gets to almost the C.
Upper Radiator hose is hot, I have verified the thermostat is new and it opens at 192 degrees as it should. Replaced the Water Pump, Fan spins freely.
I have attempted to burp the system, it isn't kicking out anymore air from the lines that I can tell. I used a large funnel and filled it with Anti-freeze, it filled the radiator, burped the system and the reservoir filled to overflowing. All with the engine hot. (To be specific the funnel was always full of fluid so no air could get sucked backwards)
The heater core hose on the left when looking from the front of the vehicle does not get hot, the one on the right gets warm. I theorize that the heater core is clogged up somehow and that is why that left line doesn't get hot. There is no fluid in the cab of the truck from the core.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L truck that, all of a sudden, has a problem with the HVAC system that blows air only thru the defrost vents even when selecting any other vent levels (defrost, face/middle or floor levels).
I did find a thread on another forum regarding this problem, only it was for the 95-01 Ranger model years, yet they say that the 2002 Ranger is not the same as those earlier models.
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1998 Ranger. I have no vacuum to the heater control valve (see link below) and hoses are warm/hot to the firewall. Where to start troubleshooting?
More Information for FOUR SEASONS 74809
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1992 Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L stick shift no AC no power steering. Recently the temp gauge began fluttering in the cold range from far left to just below the normal range. The defrost and heater blows only cold air. I had a professional shop radiator flush done. No change. I changed the engine thermostat out for a new one but no change. The upper radiator hose feels hot, so I assume the thermostat is working.
Questions: Where is the temp gauge sensor located on the engine? Is there another sensor or shutoff before the heater that might not be working? Where do I take things apart to check if the heater blend door is working?
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