Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 / 2.3L - Misses At Low Revs And At Idle
Jan 23, 2017
My new-to-me 2001 Ranger 2.3L runs great except for this one problem: At under 2000 rpm, if I give the gas more than the gentlest tickle it misses and bucks until I back off. It also misses at idle. There is no CEL but I did pull a P0442 code which points to the evap purge valve. At above 2K rpm, it runs like a champ and I can floor it, except when under load such as climbing a hill.
Could this be the problem, or should I look elsewhere also? I'm not one to just throw random parts at a problem. The previous owner thought it was old gas or an injector, but I would expect it to run poorly all the time. The service writer at the Ford dealer thought it sounded like an electrical issue, but coil, plug wires and plugs are new.
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I have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
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My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
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I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
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2004 Ford Ranger revs the engine when you engage the clutch then when you place it in gear it's like the cruises on it want to drive without you touching the Accelerator?
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A few weeks ago my '03 Mitsubishi Eclipse missed for the first time since I've had it. It's a 4-banger, so it was definitely noticeable. Fast forward a couple weeks and after a trip to Texas (from Tennessee), it begins to run between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM on start-up. There is a lack of power (not attributed to the small engine size) that was not present until a short time ago. It stopped doing that, and today a service engine light came on. The code was P0134. Some things about the car- the oil is changed religiously every 3-4 thousand miles, and the only major repairs were several years ago- the clutch and head gasket. Spark plugs are 2 years old, and coil packs were checked out around then as well.
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
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When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
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My 04 ranger is back at it AGAIN. It started about 3 years ago.
- Cruising along on the highway and then come into town. Idles at 2000 RPM
- Shut it off. and restart it. Again, 2000 RPM.
- Shut it off and it idles normal
- Drive it 2-3 day and then it idles high again
- I have clean and functioned the IAC and it works fine
- Cleaned throttle body and I never can get it to stick.
- Replaced throttle cable
It still was idling high
- Replaced ECM and it idled normal for about 1 year
- Replaced em again and it idled normal for about 6 months
It is back at it again. For what ever reason the EM is telling the IAC to open up and raise the idle...
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Allright, I seem to be having these very strange sounds at idle. Mostly when I am in Drive and waiting at a red light. In Park, it isn't as bad it seems.
One sound is knocking. A kinda slow one and irregular. Not a motor knock tho. Doesn't sound like that. It also kinda clicks from under. So, those both sounds come from under or the sides of the truck.
Should I worry about this? I've had these sounds since I've got the truck. Sometimes louder than usuall.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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Went with my best friend to pick up his new Super Duty and also visit his Grandfather in Easter Washington. The new 2014 F30 is wonderful. His Grandfathers Ford / Mercury Escort Wagon had the timing belt break and a local shop replaced it, ran good for two days then started loping. When cold it starts and runs great in about 2 min it comes off of cold loop and then starts loping from fast idle to all most off. (never seen a motor RPM drop so low and not stop) when you put it in gear it runs, we did not drive it but Grandfather said it drove home ok just started not idling when in neutral or park.
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My son bout his first truck yesterday. 98 ranger sc 4x4 auto 4.0. Beautiful shape 139000 miles. got it cheap as it has issues. its been parked for a year. It has a surging idle when you start it up. rev it to 2500-3000 rpm and it idles fine turn it off and restart it surges again until you rev it. When we test drove it it ran like it was running out of gas/bad fuel pump, sputter at full throttle but accelerate at part throttle. Gauge said under 1/4 tank of gas. We put 3 gallons of gas in it when we got home and it seems to run fine now other than the idle surge. it had a 174 code(lean bank) but if it was running out of gas it should pull a lean code right? I am thinking IAC or intake leak.
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On startup, hot or cold, I get an initial high idle, up to around 1800 rpm's. This happens immediately when engine starts, and then idles right down. This has done this since new in '04. Dealer at that time said it was normal and not to worry. It's always made me wonder, but I trusted the dealer. Ya, not always smart.
After 92k miles. Engine runs fine otherwise, but I don't really care for grabbing a bunch of rpm's on any engine without having the oil pressure up to normal.
A few weeks ago, I started it up, and some yahoo said he knew I drove big trucks by the way I started my Ranger. That was one of those times. I'm thinking IAC is wide open maybe?
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I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
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Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
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I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
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