Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 2.3L - Blue Smoke / Bad PCV?
Sep 29, 2013
I picked up a 2001 ford ranger with a 2.3 from a friend of mine for next to nothing. it has a serious oil consumption problem. he just put a head gasket in trying to fix the problem with no luck. he thinks it has a broken oil ring. the truck only has 99xxx miles on it and i find it hard to believe that it broke a ring. I am thinking it has to be something like a bad pcv. If it is rings ill do the job but I don't want to pull the motor down just to find that all the rings are good and it was something that i looked over
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My wife got off work tonight and went to start up our 2001 Ranger XLT, it starts, but wont stay running unless she puts the gas pedal down, it is also blowing white smoke from the exhaust and she says it sounds like it is missing, sputters and dies when she takes foot of gas.
No previous symptoms, ran perfect this morning, no loss of power all day, no smoke no sputtering and no check engine light. Any clue as to what it is. I have heard head gasket and O2 sensor.
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01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
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I've got a 2001 passat tdi 130, awx engine, its got 213k on the clock and has been a great car for the last couple of years, over the last couple of weeks it has been down on power and is really smokey,blue smoke, it seems to be worse if its left idling for a while then give it a good rev up and it lets out a big cloud of blue smoke, it doesn't clear and is smokey all the time, I've not noticed any drop in oil level either which makes me think it may be injectors but it still runs ok with no diesel knock and starts first time, I don't want to be wasting any money on buying a turbo or injectors if it doesn't need it.
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I own a 2001 Passat, engine code AVF, the problem is that I have blue smoke on the exhaust, lots of it. The turbocharger has been tested and has almost no play in the rotor, but I have tried to blow some air into the oil intake and the air flow is very low, I have to blow quite hard so some air can go through. I also get allot of smoke and oil from the Crankcase Ventilation Filter and also I could see some oil around the dipstick pipe.
Now I don't know if there is a turbocharger oil return pipe problem (maybe it is clogged), the turbocharger itself or maybe some other problem.
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My santa fe 125k on it engine start to blow little blue smoke when start up ...
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Within the last couple of weeks, periodically I see small amount of smoke coming from the steering column, from the hazard switch. It only lasts a couple of seconds. I've owned my 99 Ranger for about 7 years now, and since I got it, the dome light has never worked, even when installing new fuses. I'm suspicious it's the multi-function switch but not sure. What this means. I'm no mechanic, I just read alot, and from what I've read, this seems to be the issue.
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Finding the fix for the rich fuel puffing black smoke fuel reg ok, map ok, temp sensor ok, air sensor ok...
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1988 4.0 - noticed fuel mileage going down and an occasional stumble for a while but now I am getting some black smoke more when I let off the throttle than when I going down the road if I rev the truck get all kind of black soot all over the floor otherwise runs fine idles fine the iac has been replaced air filter replaced check the fuel pressure regulator for any gas leaking into the vacuum line and its clean.
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I have a 97 Ford Ranger / 2.3L / 4 cylinder (L4) / 5 speed manual / XL Supercab / 140k miles. I had been having some Check Engine issues and ran rough in town stop light to stop light. But was fine on the highway.
On several visits to the parts store, their OBD tester showed:
PO303 (Cyl 3 misfire detected)
PO141 Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor (heater circuit malfunction)
PO171 Bank 1 Combustion Too Lean (the most recent new code to show up)
And the following would show up sometimes, but other times not:
PO 402 EGR Flow - Excessive Detected
P1409 EVR (I cant remember the exact error message for this)
Regards the PO141 code, O'Reilly's sold me a Bosch O2 Sensor (Bosch 15719) and the sales rep told me it was the sensor closer to the engine. And with the attached cable length on the sensor showed was indeed the sensor closest to the engine. But I've been advised the Sensor 2 is for the 'downstream' sensor, furthest away from the engine. And the other sensor, that I replaced is the upstream sensor. And the error continued.
Then back issues showed up and I had back surgery this past year and thus drove the vehicle sparingly. Never resolving the check engine issues. (My bad). Ran on the highway ran fairly well. But recently noticed longer acceleration times and unable to top 65 in 5th gear. I bought spark plugs and plug wires and had plans to change next week.
Yesterday as driving down the Interstate, was 90 miles into my trip, I noticed loss of power even in fourth gear. (note it was the hottest day of the year at 100F). It seemed I used more gas than usual for that distance. I stopped for gas on the Interstate and power seemed to improve. Then about 130 miles into my trip I hit some heavy stop and go traffic, and wasn't able to keep an idle and the engine died numerous times if/when I didn't give it gas at a dead stop. The heavy stop and go heavy traffic and the issues persisted for a half hour for more than five miles. Then when traffic opened up the truck seemed to have a bit more power in 4th gear again. And up to that time all my dash gauges were showing fine. Then a couple miles or so down the interstate, driving 65mph in the inside lane, the check engine light started flashing quickly. And at the same time a sudden loss of power, rough sounding engine with heavy white smoke coming under the hood. And looked back in rear view mirror, with nothing but heavy white smoke. Managed to cross three lanes in heavy traffic and was able the vehicle to the outside emergency lane, finally coming to a stop.
Looked under the hood and saw oil dripping everywhere but with all the oil everywhere I could not find a prime source. Looked like the oil came from the top end of the engine and dripped down. Measured the oil at the dipstick and it seemed like I was at least a quart plus down (I checked the oil before I left on the trip). And it didn't look like any water was in the oil. And my radiator overflow tank was at the proper level. So I figured I lost all that oil during that period of "white smoke".
So had my vehicle towed home. Today in daylight, I did some more inspection and removed the air intake system (hoses and canister) from the air filter to the throttle body. There was significant oil up to the canister piece that fits on the air filter canister (but no oil in the actual air filter), and significant oil inside all the hoses up to inside the throttle body (up to the butterfly which I could see),
When I disconnected these hoses I noticed the blow-by hose connected to the intake hose system was not connected to anything. And a tube opening on the valve cover was open without the a blow-by hose attached and, with no clamp. So I assume all that oil and came out of that blow-by tube on the valve cover, (white smoke created by hot oil hitting the engine).
So appears to me that its not a blown head gasket or worse, which I first feared.
I have the vehicle parked at home.
QUESTIONS: So what are the suggested steps to troubleshoot and repair? Besides reattaching everything and putting a clamp on the blow by hose? And installing new spark plugs and plug wires. I previously replaced plug wires around 60k, even though the manual recommended 100k mile replacement. (And a couple yeas back I had the dealer replace the PCV, which was recommended in the manual and included in the warranty. The timing of the initial check engine lights appeared shortly thereafter).
Is there suppose to be a large amount of oil in the air intake system after an incident like this and should I try to clean/flush out the hoses and the inline canister?
When I disconnected the inline canister from the hoses in the air intake system, unfortunately I failed to document the direction which the canister goes. It has outside markings "ADP with a forward arrow with some horizontal lines, and then at the other end upside down markings with a greater sign PP less than sign. Should the forward arrow point toward the throttle body or toward the air filter (I'm thinking in the direction of air flow, toward the throttle body). I've taken some photos of the engine with air intake hose system unattached, if that might work...
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 4.0 V6 Automatic. The problem is when it idles it idles low and surges up/down and pushes a very small amount of black smoke puffs and smells like gas. I have installed new coil, new wires, new plugs, new ect, new crankshaft position sensor, and new maf. It has new intake manifold, new injectors, new alternator and it still does the exact same thing. Nothing is phasing it. I ran the key on/engine off test and got egr codes and a map sensor code, then ran the engine running test and got 998 and 126 code. The 998 code says that its basically a hard fault/ have no idea.
I do know this is a donor engine out of another year not sure what year, but i know when i ordered the coolant temp sensor the only ones that would plug into it are the years 1990-1993. Now here's my other question, why would the computer give me a map sensor code when truck doesn't have a map sensor? It has MAF sensor, and why egr codes? The truck doesn't have egr and never came with it. I do know I've unhooked battery and replaced the maf and its like it doesn't even recognize it? Could it be the ecm/computer bad or needs flashed?
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Well I finally went and bought another Ranger. Pretty red 5spd 4WD long bed. I knew it didn't run when I got it (crazy leaky fuel line...stupid squirrels), and the owner was pretty sure it had a head gasket failure. He claimed it was blowing white smoke and using coolant. I hadn't been able to get it to run to verify that, but I can't see why he would lie about that.
I finally got the fuel line fixed today (FYI, don't waste your time or money buying those Dorman OEM connector patch kits at Advanced Auto). While we were cranking the truck, I noticed gas escaping the degas bottle the radiator was pressurized before the thermostat should be open. That to me says blown head gasket (crossing fingers it isn't a cracked head) for sure. I tried to get a picture of the dipstick, but in the light it definitely looks like peanut butter. I just wanted to make sure before the massive ordeal of pulling heads/top end work that will follow
Anyway, plan is to fix her up and get her back on the road! Some picture enjoyment .......
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I have a 1997 Mazda b4000 new plugs wires head gasket an I cleaned out the radiator. My question is the truck runs good but my heat quit workin what could it be all fuse look good. Also there is water coming out of my tailpipe with white smoke. Should I be concerned.
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I have a 87 ranger with a 2.9 and recently it started to act up when i start after its been sitting for a couple hours it has a rough rolling idle and will stall out and a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe and some times a tiny bit of black smoke when revved high....after a about 10 mins of feathering the gas it will even out and runs no problem.... oh and quite a bit of moister comes the tail pipe....and this issue just occurred over night every time before never had an issue like this...
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2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
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Car: 88 festiva with 227K miles For those unaware this is a Mazda B3 SOHC carburated 4cyl
Symptom: Misfire and Blue (oil) smoke.
When: Only happens at first startup after car has sit for a while (at least 8 hours). It starts ok, runs fine on all cylinders, for about 15 - 30 seconds. Then it starts to misfire. If I try to drive away I get a cloud of blue oil smoke. It then clears up and runs fine. No oil smoke, no misfire. If I just let it idle, it will misfire for a long time, and then blows even more smoke when I finally hit the throttle. It really only seems to clear up if I rev the engine a bit.
I have adjusted the valve lash, changed the oil and filter, replaced the plugs with NGK copper. Dist cap looks newish as well as wires ( but I have not changed them)
When I pulled the plugs, they looked fine for the most part. no fouling, color looked normal, they weren't worn horribly.
I initially thought that it was a carb issue, but the smoke has gotten worse, so I am thinking maybe something is sticking? I get some clatter at startup sometimes (not valve noise) but it goes away as soon as the oil gets pumping (like 1 second) and it is pretty inconsistent when that happens. I am still getting over 30mpg in mostly city driving, and power levels seem ok most of the time
I am leaning away from valve seals, because in my experience they dont cause misfires and for the first 30 seconds there is no smoke at all, but am I in the wrong here?
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I am only at 141,000 miles and I'm seeing blue smoke while I idle! It started as a small puff of blue smoke when cold starting up...now it is much more consistent. I am also getting a diag trouble code of P0674 (glow plug in cylinder 4) can that be the cause? I'm nervous since I didn't watch my tech put oil in the truck at the last oil change...I think he put four gallons in instead of 15 quarts...is that a prob?
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After tooling around town and a complete warm up cycle for the engine I encountered a problem. The situation is this.... Had to go around a slow poke....waited until traffic had cleared and nailed it. My truck belched out a boat-load of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Could not duplicate this on the return trip to the stealer (Dealer). Needles to say, I am worried about the health of the engine....(no codes popped, or anything else as I had a code reader hooked up) My truck did the blue cloud again with a rev up in park after a cool down but wouldn't do it again, but there was a strong smell of unburned fuel at the tail pipe.
4.6L, 2WD, Sport Package....
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I have a 02' Limited V10 with 202xxx and have come across new issues recently.
Occasionally when I start up the truck it spits out blue smoke BUT its only when it fires up then it's done.
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Alright so In January had head gaskets done on my truck and when I got it back it Dont have any low end power and I noticed it was using oil. If I let it idle 15 min or so and rev it up it blows out a bunch of blue smoke and smells like oil bad. Been trying to figure out whats going on. Ive only put about 800 miles on it since I got it back for the head gaskets And its burned at least 3 quarts of oil. Its going to the shop on Monday gonna start with compression check and go from there I'm Thinking Its valve seals or a bent valve. But machine shop surface and pressured checked the heads. Truck only has 146000 miles on it shouldn't be having these lined of problem. Its an 03 5.4.....
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two days ago i noticed First start in the morning the truck billows out blue smoke. In mean is enough that looks like an old 2 stroke dirt bike. Quite alarming. I've had HHS in for 4300 miles or so. I hope I did not mess the engine up by towing With the HHS in there. The injectors have been getting loud an indication that i need to change the oil again. The truck always gets louder when nearing oil change time. It reminds me of an old chevy with bad valve seals. Would turbo seals just go. The smoke goes away after driving maybe 2 min well i can't see it while driving. Truck runs smooth doesn't stutter or miss. It has been acting like the stiction is happening upon first starting after sitting for 6+ hours.
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