I need to know what the wire colors are for a engine temperature sensor connector (2-wire) are and the correct wiring diagram to get the temperature gauge to work again
View 1 RepliesIn my 1999 Jeep Cherokee, with a 4.0L inline 6, I need to find the color of the wiring harness wire from the pre-catalytic convertor oxygen sensor. I think it's the black with dark green strip, but I have found conflicting information on the internet and in my Haynes book.
View 4 Replies2001 3.0 XLT Ranger 2wd 4 door
Okay getting ready to trade in my Truck. So I removed all the extra things I put on there while I was in college, the amp, fog-lights, and analog oil pressure sensor along with their wiring. It was pretty easy minus removing the oil pressure sending unit part.
I had to unplug the MAF to move the intake out of the way while I was repairing a loose vacuum tank. But I forgot to plug it back in when i closed everything up. I started the truck and drive it about a half mile before I was able to pull over and plug it back in. Truck ran and shifted fine after that, but the CEL came on. P0119 Coolant Temp Signal Intermittent. Guy at Autozone said it was Intake Air Temp Sensor intermittent and I could just replace the part, but they were showing a separate part even though it is built into our MAFs.
So now the CEL is on, can get it to go away. Truck is a little jerky every once in a while, like a misfire, when between 50 and 60. Before all this the CEL was off. Now after I cleaned it up and removed some of the superfluous accessories, I get a CEL. I wanted to trade it in this coming weekend without having to take a loss because of the CEL or spend more money to fix it.
My 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
View 8 RepliesProblem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
I bought a DVD version of the shop manual several years back. Apparently they expire? Mine will start, but it won't open anything. It says it is expired, and to discard the disk.
Anyway, what color the (+) reverse light wire is under the dash?
My dash light fuse blew. I checked with a meter and I have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring for the lights. Everything else seems to be working fine.
Is there a copy of the wiring diagram somewhere?
I have the big ford shop manual but I't doesn't have any diagrams. (might be missing pages, I got it off Ebay and the index is missing T-Z).
I have the Haynes but it doesn't have the diagram for the dash lights.
1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
It looks like my door lock wire looms go under the hood but I haven't had any luck finding them. Install an alarm with negative 500Ma pulse to operate them ? I have relays but am also wondering if the truck has its own somewhere that I can piggyback onto. I know the colors are Pink with a yellow stripe and Pink with a light green stripe.
View 7 RepliesWill a bad flex fuel sensor cause the engine to shut off. Not stall out... it just stops running.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the color wire coming out of the fuse box for the Trailer Tow Battery Charge? It's number 115 in the fuse box and a 20amp FMX fuse I believe. It's a 2005 6.0l 2WD Eddie Bower Excursion...
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f150 XL 4.6, 5 speed. I spent some time tracing the leads around the ignition system to find the EDIS module. The purpose of this is to install a aftermarket tach coming off the EDIS. This seems to be a simple approach and I have a pin diagram handy for it. I am initially shying away from tapping into the EEC. Maybe better yet, what wire color to splice behind the gauge cluster that would be useful too.
View 1 RepliesI've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
View 8 RepliesWhen I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct? I also posted this in the wiring section.
View 6 RepliesOn a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 ranger with the 3.0 is only getting around 10 or 11 mpg. It's got a check engine light on but the scanner just says lean condition. The truck also has a rough idle. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.
View 14 RepliesOK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger. Like I posted previously it is running kind of rough so guess I know why now.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use? Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
What color wire controls the high beams?
View 1 RepliesI have a real problem with 2000 Ranger, after changing the upper radiator hose and thermostat, I now have a pretty constant leak from the gasket between the thermostat body and engine. Appears to be something that is triggered by the thermostat opening, so whatever the leak, the thermostat is blocking it.
I've changed the gasket, cleaned the mounting surface as good as I could. Tried re-torquing the bolts, but on that score - what is the torque specs for the 2000 3.0 liter Ranger?
But ultimately, what the heck is wrong here? This should be a pretty brainless operation really. Am I tightening the connection too much and cracking the gasket? I guess that has just occurred to me, although the gasket is not as stiff as a typical fiber gasket is.
2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.