Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Window Belt Molding?
Dec 27, 2016
A C-note for those 2 pieces of nothing seems ridiculous. Considering sanding and painting instead.
View 2 RepliesA C-note for those 2 pieces of nothing seems ridiculous. Considering sanding and painting instead.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
View 3 Replies2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 RepliesI've tried every variation of installing the timing belt on my '91 2.3L Ranger, still not in. The belt seems as if it's too short but I've been told that it "barely" fits, no kidding! I've pulled the crank balancer/timing trigger off and put it back on three or four times already. What's the trick? Everytime I get it close I'm off a tooth or more. Just frustrated, tired of hitching a ride to work.
View 14 RepliesI have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
After about 1 minute after starting the truck it sounds like the fan belt is squealing..(below 30 deg outside) Only its not the fan belt as I replaced it. Does not do it when it is engine is operating temperature. Have checked all of the Pulleys which seem to be all right. The frequency of the squealing sound is about 1/3 the engine RPM and will go away above 2k when it does do it. Stopping at a stop light after about 45 seconds it really starts to get loud. Can a Fan Clutch do this.. I beleive that this engine has a timing chain right?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1998 ranger 4.0 and about a year after getting it the belt started to squeak so far if have replaced the belt, replaced the tensioner, and cleaned and wire brushed all the pulleys to remove glazing. And it still squeaks and its annoying and kinda embarrassing...
View 4 RepliesWhat is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
View 14 RepliesSo i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
View 2 Replies2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger 2.3l with 327k miles on it. I recently replaced the belt and now it doesnt want to start. The belt is on correctly and tensioner is tight. The battery is fully charged its just not firing up and starting. All connections are good, the ac and power steering pulleys are relatively new. Now i have been stuck tryin to fix it for a week...
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 2003 Ford Ranger. What I want to do is unhook the seat belt chime. In the past with the other 3 Rangers I owned I unplugged it from under the seat. But when I unplugged this one the light for the air bag stayed on. I like the freedom to choose and I don't care for the chime.
View 14 RepliesIn a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
Couple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
The rear window on my '99 Supercab leaks. I thought it was the cargo light so sealed it up good with silicone but still leaking. I have heard that the back glass is bolted in on these years..... It is a solid glass (non slider) ...
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab's passenger window. It seems like it has a loose connection, but I am not sure what the exact problem is. When I try to move the passenger window from the driver side control panel, nothing happens. The driver side window works fine. On the passenger side control panel, I can hear the motor trying to move the window when I try to put it up (the window is already up).
When I try to put it down, I hear nothing unless I push the button repeatedly - anywhere from 3 to 20 times. When the window is partially down, moving up always works, but I have to keep trying to push the button to make it go down. I have tried pushing down on the window while I press the down button and spraying white lithium grease in the window tracks while the window was down, as well as pulling part of the seal away from the window while I tried to make it go down.
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT with a power window issue. My passenger window doesn't go up but it will go down. My headlights don't dim when I press the up/down window passenger buttons on the driver side as well as up on the passenger side. The window will go up randomly as if nothing is wrong but I don't know what the issue is. I've checked the power distribution box and fuse box but didn't find any issues. All I can tell is that it's an electrical issue.
View 6 RepliesInstalling sliding rear window in a 2011 ranger sport? Is this a DIY project or should it be left to the pros?
View 2 RepliesI noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
View 1 RepliesI just bought a '12 Camry SE. However, the belt line molding (shiny trim piece below window) is dented in. How can I safely remove the piece without damaging anything? I may be able to knock the dent back out of this piece after removing it. Any specific tools required for removal? If I purchase the new molding from the dealer it will cost about $100, which I would like to avoid.
View 7 Replies