My 2000 Ranger (4.0L, V6, manual tranny) is acting weird in first and second gears as well as idle. I hear a ticking and then the engine revs. At idle, I see the tach needle move a little. While driving, the truck jerks. It's a smooth ride once I move into third gear.
View 14 RepliesMy ranger sounds like it's revving up real high when I take off but don't have much power. Know what this could be?
View 5 RepliesI noticed recently that when my Ranger is sitting idle in gear (drive or reverse) it's making a high pitch ringing noise. It doesn't do it in Park or neutral. Just had the truck inspected last week so it's driving OK. I don't think it does it while I'm moving with the RPMs up, but maybe the sound of the engine is masking it, I don't know. Anyway, what this could be? Something with the transmission since it only does it in drive and reverse? It doesn't do it all the time but a lot of the time.
View 1 RepliesI just got a 99 2.5 rwd auto and it shakes when it's at idle in gear. I'm pretty sure its because the AC pulley is engaging drawing power. I was thinking about turning the idle screw up a blonde-one because when I hold the brake and give it slight gas it goes away.
View 3 Replies2000 ranger 2.5 stick, coming to a stop i put in the cluch and the motor speeds up then slows down sometimes more sometimes less.
A month ago I had a code PO171, with a good idle. I cleaned the MAF senser then cleared the code, a week later the the CIL came back on same code. Then a month after the CIL is on the engine idle problem started. So I recleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, cleared the code, and replaced the ICV with a new one. That worked good for about 3 days now the idle problem is back again.
The idle problem seam to be worse when the motor is warm or has been running at freeway speeds.
In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
View 6 RepliesI have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 Replies2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
View 14 RepliesI have a 91 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Recently the engine was not reving up when i stepped on the gas. But, it kept running and i got home. Then one day it just wouldn't start after i just shut it off. I've changed the distributor cap and rotor,fuel pump and filter.I have spark to all 6 plugs and good fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I'm leaning toward the timing. Last night I found the harmonic balancer will just spin freely. Will this stop it from firing?If it is the timing, how do I find tdc and where is the # 1 firing position on the distributor cap(no markings)?
View 14 RepliesTruck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
Its a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
2000 ranger 2.5 245000 miles. code po171 and idle problem has come back. Replace ICV, EGR, MAF, PVC, check fuel pres, air cleaner, plugs, wires, O2, check for vac leaks, Intermittently coasting at 20mph out of gear (stick shift) engine revs to 2500 rpm and holds until i brake to a stop then it idles down. So I disconnect the ICV and it runs perfect. (its a new ICV) something is telling the ICV to open up. a month ago it did the same thing when i replaced the EGR the idle problem cleared up so I thought that was it.
There is a relationship between the truck speed and the engine speed but how does the engine speed know the truck is moving when its out of gear. It work perfect for a month all of a sudden it starts this problem again. I am thinking of taking it to the ford dealer for a diagnostic test but I don't know how specific they can get on whats wrong I don't what to them to just say "oh you have a vac leak" . . . I know a 171 could be vac leak but the problem is so dramatic and off again on again it seems more like a part problem then a vac hose is either leaking or not.
Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
I have an 03 Ranger 3.0 a/t. A little while back I had a clogged cat, so I took out all the cats and since then it has slowly developed a ticking sound from what sounds like the top of the heads. What that might be?
View 6 RepliesI have recently done the heads in my 1999 ford ranger 3.0 v6. It had a cracked head. I put everything back together and the truck is working fine with no lights on except for this ticking noise that I don't remember of hearing before. I bought myself a stethoscope and checked the injectors. The sound is coming from the injectors. Over the valve cover I don't hear anything as I hear on the injectors.
View 1 Replies1998 ranger 5spd... I have 117k miles on this little ranger and I recently took it on a little trip and since that trip it has a ticking noise under the hood as if the lifters were sticking. I believe it has hydrolic lifters in it. I put some sea foam in it 200 miles ago and changed the oil about 50 miles ago. I used Valvoline full synthetic and it seems like it has lessened the tick and it drives a lot smoother, in my opinion. Is there any thing else I can do to relieve that ticking? It is more noticeable when the engine first starts and is louder if i push down harder on the gas. It is not preset if i do not put that much pressure on the gas.
View 6 RepliesI'm having a rough go with my little 1990 Ranger Custom. Let me get into the signs and symptoms I'm finding, The Truck is having starting and dying issues. It has plenty of Gas. It is completely erratic when it dies. I'll be driving along and suddenly, as if turning the key off, it dies. No sputtering of the motor, no clicking or clacking or growling anywhere. Just a clean sounding turn off. The odd thing is, I'll leave it for a few hours, and the problem disappears. I can drive it for one to 30 minutes and then it can die again.
Now it's sitting in my driveway I am rough on the truck, because its a work truck that I use to drive down to my job site. So, farm pasture, fields, woodland paths and tractor access roads. I checked to see if the pump plug was unplugged. But it's very plugged in. The entire fuel system is just less than a year old, and I am very good friends with the old owner and he can't figure it out either. Could I be having ignition problems? There is a ticking in the engine compartment that isn't very noticeable, only noticeable when the hood is up and motor running, but that has always been there since I've had it. I heard that sometimes the safety switch on the firewall turns off the fuel system in case of accident.
Could that have gotten agitated? I've been having this issue for a little while, after I drove it in the rain for an hour and half. It was pouring rain. I ran out of gas the day after (because my fuel gauge doesn't work) and I used a Jerry can filled with gas to get it to the gas station. I didn't sift the gas, but I don't see it having debris either. Could I have water in the system? I put injector cleaner in my tank and more gas to try and dilute the system but, that doesn't seem to have worked...
Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
Dad gave me an 87 ranger 7 months ago. After correcting a few transmission issues, and complete head job my truck was running great. Drove her the last two weeks, then she sat over. Today I took her out around the city and noticed a slight ticking sound. The noise progressed over 50 miles of driving. I finally decided to take her home. My mechanical knowledge is minimal, and need to know where to start troubleshooting. My wife says she heard a loud ticking noise right before she blew the head gasket a few months ago ( this makes me even more concerned) could this have anything to do with the late cracked head gasket issue?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 96 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 on the 21st and the gear shifter doesn't go into 1st gear but changes to the other ones(see pic below) and was wondering if it's a easy fix.
Also I have a oil drip(at least it looks like oil to me) and I can't figure out where it's coming from because it's a small drip and the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick both show full and I can't figure out where the drip is coming from and I only noticed a dip on a metallic tank but don't know what that is either but check out the pic below to see the drip I circled.
I have a 2000 Accord with a 2.3L 4 cylinder and manual transmission. I just changed the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, tensioner wheels and other external belts. I now get a bad engine vibration at idle and when backing up and pulling forward. The vibration is quite noticeable in the steering wheel. Revving the engine smooths it out at certain RPM's. I know this isn't right and its got to be limited to something I just did. I followed the instructions in the Honda service manual and thought that everything went back to gather correctly. I double checked the timing and balancer alignments. The motor mount on the drivers side is simple and all went back together correctly. Is there a way to verify correct timing belt and balancer belt alignments without tearing it all down again?
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