Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Muddy Coolant - Overflow Tank - Way To Clean?
Jul 23, 2012
Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
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1993 ranger, 3.0 V6 203,000 miles. As engine warms up coolant in blown into over flow and spills out. At that point system is low and truck runs hotter than norman, 3/4 way across gage. What would be causing overflow to overfill from engine. Could it be a bad rad. cap? Just replaced head gaskets at 200,000 miles. Truck runs good. No oil in water, no sign of visible leakes other than overflow tank overfilling and loosing coolant.
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I got a 64 F100 with a 292 that I am thinking of installing a coolant overflow tank on to aliviate having to fill the radiator frequently.
The question being............Is it a sealed system or do I need to provide an air bleed to adjust for the presure change within the cylinder I intend to use?
I realise that thermal syphoning will return the coolant to the radiator but am unsure as to weather or not I need to allow the airspace to remain at atmospheric pressure.
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I have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
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So I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
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I have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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Why my coolant overflow tank would be bubbling away whilst the engine is hot? No signs of overheating, not done a compression test yet though.
When the engine is cold, the level in the coolant reservoir is higher than it should be and the radiator was low.
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I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
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I filled up with gas this week on my 92 Ranger extended cab and when it got to full I noticed it was leaking down the side of the tank in-line with the filler neck. I couldn't make out exactly where it was coming from. It wasn't coming out of the filler neck I know. I noticed I had been smelling a strong gas smell but I thought it was a bad gas cap. I've never dropped a tank on any of my Rangers. I've also got a 93 and 98 regular cab but always had someone do it. I know that on my 98 the big plastic lock ring deteriorated over time and I had to have it replaced because it was leaking when I filled it up. I'm suspecting the same on this 92. I got a print out of the fuel tank and components from Ford trying to prepare myself to have everything I need if I try and drop the tank myself to check. It looks like it has one of those plastic lock rings, a filler neck grommet, and some kind of vapor grommet. It shows some kind of shield over the fuel pump assembly. Will I need anything special to remove that big plastic lock ring, the hoses, or to drop the tank? I know it's got that heat shield around it. It looks intimidating. I don't want to break anything but can't afford to keep paying all the labor to get the small problems fixed on this Ranger. The only fuel tanks I've dropped and changed were on my 65 Valiant and 73 Charger but they required no special fuel line removal tools. Is anything going to be hard removing this fuel tank? I probably will put in a new fuel pump just to, since it's running the original 22-year-old fuel pump.
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How/why does fuel transfer from front tank to rear tank ? I put 6 gallons in front, drove about 5 miles, parked over night, all fuel now in rear tank which was empty.
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My husband just bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. On the way home from work the recovery tank cap kept popping off. When he got home the radiator was cool to the touch, hoses were warm. He removed the radiator cap and no coolant was showing but the over flow tank was full. I looked in the recovery tank and it looked brown which to me indicates a head or head gasket problem. I checked the oil and it was clean and seemed to be slightly overfilled.
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1996 F-150 5.0... So I bought this truck a couple months ago for a really good price and its my regular vehicle that I use daily. While driving I switched tanks from the front to rear and when i reached my destination i noticed that fuel spilled from the cap, I opened the cap and fuel overflowed. I've read in forums saying that its the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the Fuel Tank Selector Valve . It still drives and runs fine, but I would like to know which part its specifically causing the problem?
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I looked for any tips on changing the coolant in my '06 2.3L Ranger but found nada. How to best / easiest way to drain the coolant from this little rig? Is there any need to worry about bleeding any captured air in the system once I go to refill the system?
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I removed what I could, plastic cover and thermostat housing. Looks like I have to pull the intake to get the little bugger out of there. What's the procedure to remove and replace?
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My 2002 4.0L V6 Ranger, 4x4 overheated *slightly* this past weekend. I added some water and limped it home with a couple stops, trying not to let it get too hot. I since noticed there is oil in the coolant, so jumped to the first non mechanic's assumption the head gasket was bad. I have had (auto) tranny troubles with this truck in the past and started looking inside today and noticed some red fluid under the truck. I think the tranny fluid cools through the main radiator on this one, yes? If so, do I likely have a bad radiator, or is there another likely possibility?
The only wet areas I can find look like where the hard lines come into the right side (looking from the front) back of the rad. If we can determine that, would I need to replace the radiator, or is there any way to plug the tranny lines and run through a separate cooler? I think this also has a tranny, or oil cooler in front of the main radiator but not sure if that is correct, or what exactly that is. This is my daily driver work truck and will bring work to a stop until I can figure it out.
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