Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Idle With Code PO171?
Jul 18, 2012
2000 ranger 2.5 stick, coming to a stop i put in the cluch and the motor speeds up then slows down sometimes more sometimes less.
A month ago I had a code PO171, with a good idle. I cleaned the MAF senser then cleared the code, a week later the the CIL came back on same code. Then a month after the CIL is on the engine idle problem started. So I recleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, cleared the code, and replaced the ICV with a new one. That worked good for about 3 days now the idle problem is back again.
The idle problem seam to be worse when the motor is warm or has been running at freeway speeds.
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2000 ranger 2.5 245000 miles. code po171 and idle problem has come back. Replace ICV, EGR, MAF, PVC, check fuel pres, air cleaner, plugs, wires, O2, check for vac leaks, Intermittently coasting at 20mph out of gear (stick shift) engine revs to 2500 rpm and holds until i brake to a stop then it idles down. So I disconnect the ICV and it runs perfect. (its a new ICV) something is telling the ICV to open up. a month ago it did the same thing when i replaced the EGR the idle problem cleared up so I thought that was it.
There is a relationship between the truck speed and the engine speed but how does the engine speed know the truck is moving when its out of gear. It work perfect for a month all of a sudden it starts this problem again. I am thinking of taking it to the ford dealer for a diagnostic test but I don't know how specific they can get on whats wrong I don't what to them to just say "oh you have a vac leak" . . . I know a 171 could be vac leak but the problem is so dramatic and off again on again it seems more like a part problem then a vac hose is either leaking or not.
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I just bought a 1998 ford ranger with 228000 miles on it seems to run fine has the 2.5 4 cylinder with auto trans. Check engine light is on and code is a PO171. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and fixing to install new fuel filter. what the problem could be?
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
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My 2000 Ranger (4.0L, V6, manual tranny) is acting weird in first and second gears as well as idle. I hear a ticking and then the engine revs. At idle, I see the tach needle move a little. While driving, the truck jerks. It's a smooth ride once I move into third gear.
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I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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Truck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
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Its a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
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2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
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My car, '99 ford escort,' engine light just came on when I started the car. I took it to autozone for one of those checks with the machine thingy. The code was PO171 bank 1 system 2 lead. The girl at autozone told me that I may need a oxygen sensor. What is a bank 1? What do I say when I go to the repair shop?
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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Does the 2011 6.2 have a DPFE sensor? If so where is it located? Codes are lean bank one and two and random misfire. Suggestions I have read online are replace DPFE sensor. I don't think maybe there is one on a 2011 6.2. Who have had it and had it fixed. Other things I see are clean the MAF sensor. Look for vacuum leaks.
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So here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
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When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
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My 04 ranger is back at it AGAIN. It started about 3 years ago.
- Cruising along on the highway and then come into town. Idles at 2000 RPM
- Shut it off. and restart it. Again, 2000 RPM.
- Shut it off and it idles normal
- Drive it 2-3 day and then it idles high again
- I have clean and functioned the IAC and it works fine
- Cleaned throttle body and I never can get it to stick.
- Replaced throttle cable
It still was idling high
- Replaced ECM and it idled normal for about 1 year
- Replaced em again and it idled normal for about 6 months
It is back at it again. For what ever reason the EM is telling the IAC to open up and raise the idle...
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Allright, I seem to be having these very strange sounds at idle. Mostly when I am in Drive and waiting at a red light. In Park, it isn't as bad it seems.
One sound is knocking. A kinda slow one and irregular. Not a motor knock tho. Doesn't sound like that. It also kinda clicks from under. So, those both sounds come from under or the sides of the truck.
Should I worry about this? I've had these sounds since I've got the truck. Sometimes louder than usuall.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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Went with my best friend to pick up his new Super Duty and also visit his Grandfather in Easter Washington. The new 2014 F30 is wonderful. His Grandfathers Ford / Mercury Escort Wagon had the timing belt break and a local shop replaced it, ran good for two days then started loping. When cold it starts and runs great in about 2 min it comes off of cold loop and then starts loping from fast idle to all most off. (never seen a motor RPM drop so low and not stop) when you put it in gear it runs, we did not drive it but Grandfather said it drove home ok just started not idling when in neutral or park.
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