Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Fluid Coming Out When Pushed The Pedal After Blown Rear Line
Aug 24, 2017
A few weeks back just after buying a new front hub assembly (so I know I have Live Axle 4x4 and 4WABS), a dude on an excavator pulled out in front of me on a blind curve on an interstate exit ramp. Almost got him, then almost got got by the car behind. The hard stop caused a rear line to blow.
When I got home, fluid was still coming out when I pushed the pedal, so the first thing I did was top off the reservoir. I was surprised it was not empty.
I finally got lines that would fit, and replaced both sides. Fast forward a few weeks and I had time to bleed the system. I hooked my vacuum pump to the right-rear wheel cylinder port, opened it and began to pump. Pump, pump, pump, and still no fluid. Tried a few times. Left the pump on, opened the port, (charged the battery), started the truck and pumped the pedal - no fluid. Also, the fluid level did not change in the master.
Master cylinder bleed? Do I need to have the ABS motor bled?
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I have a 2000 Ranger, V6 4L, and I believe my head gasket is blown, my radiator fluid goes straight to the oil pan. It has probably been leaking for a while, I did not realize it was leaking internally, I had been adding coolant for a few months but thought it was my radiator leaking because it had a crack in the housing, so I had that changed, but then a few weeks after that It gave out. I drained, and flushed the engine twice, and just parked it. My question is, should I just have the head gasket changed, or does it need a new engine because it had been leaking for a while and not sure what kind of damage it has done internally.
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Did I get bent over? had a banging noise coming from the rear and took it to my regular shop, they told me the leaf spring shackle and hanger brackets were almost rusted thru and one more pothole and I'd be all over the road, so they ground out the rivets and replaced said brackets. I don't have the equipment to do that kind of work but I still feel it was a little high.
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So, last weekend the GF said she had been hearing a tick in her 2006 4L Ranger. I crawl up under it and see the right rear spark plug and wire vibrating and could tell it was loose. I jack it up, take the right front tire off, pull the liner back, and finally get a socket on the plug to tighten it. I tighten it by hand first the then the finale snug down with the ratchet.
I notice it snugged up but I just felt it was trying to slip so I stopped. Well, it lasted two days and now has fallen out again. It appears the head is stripped. I am going to pull the plug out tonight and see if I can see where the threads are stripped. I assume I will find material on the threads of the plug.
My question is, is there anyway for me to make a temp fix till there is time to pull the head and repair it properly? I saw NAPA used to have a kit for the Triton engine but when I went to their web site I couldn't even find that anymore.
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I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
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My 2000 Ranger has been leaking fluid around the front Diff cover so I decided to pull the cover and reseal it. It was obvious that this was going to be a tight job but I didn't anticipate running into a bolt that can't be removed because interference from the front cross member.
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I blew a power steering cooler line yesterday and lost a bit of fluid. Removed and replaced the line, consequently losing most of the fluid in the system (during line replacement). Re-filled the system and now i have great power steering when driving but none at idle. If I bring my RPMs up about 150-200. I get it back in full force. Could my PS pump be on the way out or might this just be air in the system?
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This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
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I have a 2000 ford ranger xlt the rear frame section is bad the section is factory rivited on just behind the cab will any other model ranger frame fit my truck if I remove the rivits and bolt the section back together.
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 6 cyl. 4 wheel drive. I got this truck from a friend. Only had it for a month or so has about 185K on it but has been running great.
I did notice a couple times that when I pushed the clutch in approaching a light the truck would jump a bit in RPM to about 2600. but go back down in a second or two.
This started to occur more frequently and now it does it almost all the time....when I push clutch in it revs up to about 2600 RPM.
Now I can have my foot on the brake and let the clutch out to put some strain on the engine and knock the RPM down but its still a bot high in the 1k range. Sometimes it actually goes back to normal...
When I started it this morning it was fine....but after two shifts it started and lasted the 12 miles to work. What could be causing this? It does not seem to go above 3000 RPM when it revs.... Other then that the truck runs great.
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I have an '89 Ranger, Extended Cab, 2x4, 2.3l, Manual transmission with 255,000 on the odometer. I've owned it since 1990 and as far as I can remember it has either never had a clutch or only had one. I realize it's past due.
Everything has been fine up until this morning. 10 minutes after leaving the driveway this morning going a steady 55mph, no incline, it sounded almost as if I hit a deer. The truck jerked real hard, I put it back into 5th, and limped to my destination. Keep in mind for the next 30 or so miles there was absolutely no clutch slippage.
Here's the symptoms: No slippage, won't go into gears (I have to match rev's and shift without clutch, I drive a big rig and do this daily), when I do get it in 1st at a stop sign it wants to lurch with clutch all the way pushed down, I still have a great clutch pedal, and the most interesting thing to me is it sounds like something is being tossed around in my bell housing.
I'm almost 100% certain it's the clutch, however, I just wanted to come on here and report I have no slippage and it sounds like something being tossed around in the bell housing area. Is it possible a piece of the clutch could have "broke" off and that was what that huge jerk at 55 mph was? Approx. how much would a shop charge to put a clutch in on this model? I live in a rural area where prices are not inflated.
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My Ranger has 296,000 miles on it. Most everything has been replaced except the u-joints. It's a 2wd 2.5L with an automatic. The motor was replaced at 228,000 with a used motor with 52,000 miles. The transmission has about 60,000 miles on it. All the bearings in the rear end were replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It has the most annoying whistling noise coming from the rear only sometimes. I don't know if it's the brakes being misadjusted or a bearing with a burr in it. It happens at random times but it's such a high pitched whistling you know everyone on the road can hear it too. There is also a driveline vibration, very minor though when over 60. However, I've had the drums checked and even had the wheels balanced many times. My friend said the ujoint grease could be dried up, but the whistling noise only happens at random, the virbation is anytime you're at highway speeds. It's not a violent vibration just enough to tell that it's not a brand new truck anymore. What it could be?
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I have read all I could find on replacing a blown head gasket and and after absorbing everything that TigerDan posted on here, I dove in and began. After disassembling all the topside junk I finally got the intake manifold loose and got down to the head. I began undoing the head bolts and found two broken bolts. The head won't budge so I am calling in a cherrypicker. I don't know what kind of mess I'll find when the head comes off. I assume the head will be warped or the block may be damaged.
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I've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
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I've been driving 93 ranger 3.0 4wd since last fall. first week I went to start and fuel pump relay had blown. I put a new one in and been driving since fine, till today. Now when I try to start, if it starts it will run fine all day as long as you don't turn it off. If you turn it off and restart half the times it will pop relay again. My fuel gauge has been stuck on full since I bought it also. I'm wondering if maybe pump has got had to start and drawing too much current...
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So 85 ranger with 2.3l and A4ld. I can manually shift to get first and 2nd. When i look at the vaccume diagram it shows these 2 blocks on the tranny,one box is connected to the next with a vac line. The other box has 2 lines, one goes to the main vaccume block on the intake and the other T's into a small capped off canister and the egr. I can only find one place for a vac line and its on the pasgr side of the tranny... Where is the block that the egr line connects too located? Its not on the tranny as far as i can tell.
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I got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0l and is been leaking fuel from where the regulator conects to the fuel line the regulator is new. I cant find a new fuel line.
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My 96 ranger with a 5 spd manual and two piece drive line has the center carrier bearing going out (squeals,vibrates,etc.) I got the part no. from the dealer but they are obsolete. is there a one piece drive line i could put in and what would that take to do.i remember a thread on it somewhere but cannot find it in the search. i would prefer not to use aftermarket because they only have a one year warranty.
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I let my sister borrow my 1995 4 banger Ford Ranger for about a week. To make a long story short, when I drove it home I could smell a really strong gas odor so I pulled into a gas station and noticed gas pouring out of from what looked like the fuel filter area right under the driver's side.
Anyway, it took another 5 gallons to get home and I later crawled under and took a look. It looks like someone grabbed the fuel line and tried to unsuccessfully pull it out of the fuel filter by hand. I could literally see the imprint of the person's hand where they grabbed the line. They had pulled the line so hard that it crimped and split which is why gas was leaking like a water hose.
I picked up a Ranger specific Dorman fuel-line repair kit from Advance and had my brother install it for me as I'm no mechanic. It was fine for a few days and then I started to smell gas again so I crawled under and took a look. There's just barely a small leak coming from the connector barb/union on the kit. Anyway, I didn't know what else to do so I dropped the Ranger off at a local shop this evening. With that said, this is fixable, right?
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