Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Door Ajar Light Comes On And Overhead Lights Won't Turn Off When It Rains
Jun 5, 2013
When it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
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Today I've been working on fixing the Door Ajar problem that's developed in my 2002 ranger extended cab. I haven't made any progress taking the main doors apart and testing the switches. Doing a little research on the forum I learned that the door ajar wiring is tied in with the dome/instrument dimmer. Well that's interesting because my instrument dimmer was never worker properly. It dims the running lights instead of anything in the cab, and if I turn it down too low, the fog lights won't function.
So I have a few questions:
+What's the way to determine which door, if any, is sending "door ajar"? I'd rather not take the back doors apart, and check the wiring on each door.
+What's the deal with my dimmer?
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The dome light and door ajar light on my 97 Ranger stay on. The switches are good, is there a relay or other device in the circuit?
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Like the title says, my 99 ranger has the door ajar light stuck on, which in turn is making the dome light stay on. It's kinda been acting up lately, but would go out eventually. Today I washed it and had the doors open for a while. After I shut the doors and started it the light stayed on and hasn't gone off since. I pulled the negative cable tonight. And no, the doors aren't open! FWIW I cant pull the doors any tighter closed and make the light go out..
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In the past week after work the door ajar light comes on and stays on. I've checked all doors and they are not ajar. The dome light comes on when i start the engine and goes off after a few seconds, but only when i have this door ajar problem. After I get home and shut off the engine for about 30 seconds, then restart, the dome light nor the door ajar don't come on.
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both this winter and last winter as it gets colder my GX will indicate that a door is ajar and the overhead lights come on and then within a few seconds they both go out. this seems to occur when accelerating from a stop and resolves once the vehicle gets over about 15 mph. in my estimation this seems to be related to the rear cargo door as if it partially opens just enough to let the sensor knows its slightly open. the dealer has been unable to duplicate it and it only happens when its around freezing or lower.
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Okay, so the door ajar light came on the other day and the interior lights would not turn off when I turned off the car. This is a 2004 Century. I ended up removing the fuse so that I can be assured that the battery wouldn't drain. The problem is in either the driver or left passenger door. I couldn't see any door switches like I've seen on other vehicles so I'm wondering if this is a latch issue or an electrical issue.
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So my 2000 ex has the door ajar light on. I have narrowed it down to the drivers side rear door. I have sprayed wd40 and pb blaster into the latch and its still on.
I have taken the panel off and sprayed everything inside. I pulled apart the wires running inside the door and tried doing some experimenting with twisting wires together, Hoping to close off the circuit.
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I've noticed that my overhead lights sometimes turn on when the driver's door is opened and sometimes they do not. (the overhead switch is in the middle "door" position). They work when the passenger door is opened but sporadically with the driver's side.
I haven't had time to RTFM on the MFD lighting selections but is there something that controls this in there? When they did want to work, they would turn on for about a second after the door is opened and then faded out. The only thing I've done recently is the fuel tank recall but this could've been pre-existing and I never picked up on it.
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My door ajar light is stuck on in my 2000 Subaru Forester, whether the car is on or not. I had to replace the battery as it ran down the old one. Sometimes it goes off for a week or more at a stretch, but it always comes back on. As of now it has been on continuously for about 8 months. I have tried everything minus taking the door panels off.
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Like the subject says, I have been noticing over the last 2 months in my 03 GX470 that the interior lights and open door dash light come on when accelerating.
-The issue is exacerbated in cold weather. I have double checked all doors and rear hatch are closed.
-I have gone around and checked all door sensors are functioning, not sticky, etc.
-I climbed in the rear hatch and had my wife shut it. When I push on the plastic under the window, the lights come on. When I push on the glass itself (and push MUCH harder then on the plastic) the lights do not come on.
Clearly I have an issue in the rear hatch trim area.
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My buddy bought this 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the 3.0 and 150,000 miles for 500 bucks. After he bought it, the number 2 spark plug boot caught on fire, and turned completely to ash. So we parked the damn thing, and have been training ever since, but it did run when we parked it. We replaced all plugs, wires suspecting a bad plug (and they were all fouled). Went to start it and now its on the verge of starting, but can't quite get there. So here's what we've done since.
-Replaced coil (had it tested, failed primary test on terminal 1, and secondary on 3 and 4)
No change
-Checked Spark by grounding spark plug
Good
-Checked Fuel at rail
Good- Held until empty, primed Fuel system (key on for 3 seconds 5 times) checked again, good)
-Truck had been sitting for three months, so put in small bottle of stabil and added 5 gallons with Lucas. Primed the system about 20 times, and tried to start. No effect.
-Checked battery.
1 bad cell, 3 low on water- replaced battery. Allowed it to crank for longer (before we were jumping it) but still didn't want to.
Note of concern : After we replaced the battery and went to start it, when the key was disengaged I noticed a hissing sound coming from the radiator cap. The truck is in Upstate new york and hasn't been ran in 3 months. I'm hoping its not but thinking it is a cracked jacket or a blown head gasket.
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I have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
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I recently replaced all my incandescent lights on my 99 ford ranger which makes my truck stand out, but the issue I am having is all my exterior lights work including my turn lights but my running lights will not turn on. Is there any way I can fix this problem. I changed my flasher unit with one that is LED Capatable and i added load equalizers to the back to correct the issue with my turn signals but i just cant get my running lights to work....
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Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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One of my bulbs sometimes doesn't come on when I turn my lights on. I actually have to hit the dashboard to get it to come on. Does it randomly. Ironically, it's been doing this ever since I pulled the instrument cluster out to change a different bulb. I don't know if I did something when taking it out or putting it back in. Anyway, what I can check to see why it's doing this? It's just one bulb that illuminates the right portion of the tachometer.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. What to look at next. no codes...
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When I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
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This has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
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I have spent two days searching for a fix to a problem like mine on my truck and I haven't quite found it. Sooo, here it is. I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 4x4. I'm getting the dreaded six lights flashing. I can hear the clicking under the dash as it attempts to engage the 4WD. I have checked the Motor at the T/C and no power. What feeds voltage to the motor its self? and is there any other thing I can check B-4 having it scanned? oh and it is a manual tranny.
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So I read the posts on dome lights staying on and the solution to spray WD40 in the latch but my problem is the opposite. The light sometimes comes on, sometimes it doesn't, when the door is opened, same if using the dash switch, sometimes light, sometimes darkness. Sometimes it just barely lights up, and I see its an LED in there. 2004 2wd Edge 2 door.....
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