Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Codes PO500 - Cluster And ABS Module Faults
Aug 15, 2012
I am looking for the part number for the ABS speed sensor mounted on the rear differential for my 2000 Ranger XL 4x4 3.0 flex fuel model. I am also looking for the name of the part so I can look it up on the ford parts site. while looking I have found these names ABS speed sensor
Powertrain Control Module Speed Control Sensor
I had my truck in the shop and they did a health check, they found these codes po500 - cluster fault and the abs module fault
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I am having some issues with my 2000 Ford Ranger 2.5. It is throwing codes PO731 (Gear 1 incorrect ratio) P1751(shift solenoid a) PO 401 (EGR Valve & PO 1408 (EGR Valve Circuit Failure.
I recently replaced my valve body gasket because of harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd. The gasket was blown. After I replaced the gasket my truck ran better than it ever has before (like driving a new truck). Nice and smooth shifting! That lasted a couple days
Currently things have changed to the worse. My truck is shifting hard into 2nd. Has a huge loss of power during take off and seems bogged down. Also, my overdrive light will come on after driving for a couple of miles. So, I took my truck to the transmission shop to get the codes pulled. Which are all the codes listed above.
I figured I would attack the EGR issues as one and the transmission as another. I will also add that my EGR issues didn't just happen with the throttle body gasket change. This is something that has been going on way before. I have been at this for days now. I found tons of info on cleaning my EGR Valves and trouble shooting this system...so my main concern is the PO731 & P1751 Codes and how to deal with them.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. What to look at next. no codes...
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I'm set on having the European parking light feature (when the car is parked and you walk away from it). For those of you not familiar with it, by changing the Instrument Cluster coding from a 2 (USA) to either a 1 or 4 (UK or Great Britain), you can turn the car off, hit the left turn signal assuming you are parked on the right side of the street, and after getting out and locking it the 194 amber front bulb and the LED red rear ring stays on. This aids in traffic seeing your car parked on the side of the road.
Problem is that once you change the country, you get this in the ABS Module:
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3C0-614-095-C2.clb
Control Module Part Number: 3C0 614 095 S HW: 3C0 614 095 S
Component and/or Version: ESP 440 C2 H015 0004
Software Coding: 0013752
[Code] ....
What changes need to be made in this module to avoid this? The pop-up window in the coding section doesn't say anything about different countries so I'm not sure which numbers need changed.
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I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
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I have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
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I have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
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I have a 97 ranger 2.3L (manual transmission) and want to change the cluster to one with a tach... I have a 2000 cluster but I would like to compare the actual wiring between the two (1997/2000)... I have looked in the Ranger technical area of these forums and also did a search for "dash cluster wiring" and found no info...
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One of my bulbs sometimes doesn't come on when I turn my lights on. I actually have to hit the dashboard to get it to come on. Does it randomly. Ironically, it's been doing this ever since I pulled the instrument cluster out to change a different bulb. I don't know if I did something when taking it out or putting it back in. Anyway, what I can check to see why it's doing this? It's just one bulb that illuminates the right portion of the tachometer.
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The parking brake instrument cluster lamp is enabled by a small switch at the foot operated park brake mechanism. The switch is attached to chassis electrical ground. The switch has one wire attached to it. So when the switch is enabled it connects chassis ground to the wire therein turning on the cluster lamp. With the wire disconnected from the switch the lamp stays on. This tells me the wire is grounded somewhere. Brilliant deduction eh?
So here's my question. How/where that wire is routed? I lose sight of it approx. 2-inches from the switch where it disappears behind the brake mechanism mounting bracket. I plan to unbolt that bracket to see if that might be where the wire is being shorted to ground. But if it's not pinched there, where do I go from there?
(2001 Ranger, 4liter-2wd)
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I have a 1996 ford ranger 2.3L automatic. I need to replace the instrument cluster. I can remove all the plugs from the rear of the cluster except 1 black wire I assume is the speedo cable. It runs from the rear of the cluster down underneath the dashboard. How to remove this cable so I can replace the entire cluster?
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Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
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Have a 2000 Passat V6 5spd. Recently ran the codes, and this is what I came up with under engine.
9 Faults Found:
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground
P1425 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Short to Ground
P1472 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17843 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Short to Ground
P1435 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17938 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Short to Ground
P1530 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17923 - Intake Manifold Valve (N156): Short to Ground
P1515 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17529 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B2 S2: Short to Ground
P1121 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B1 S2: Short to Ground
P1117 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
Do these components share a common ground, or connector, I imagine it is a simple fix. just wiggle fuse, or ecu connector?
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My 2001 2.5 manual suddenly died. The starter turns the engine over, but I don't get a) fuel (changed the fuel pump) b) spark c) Engine check light. When I plug the OBDII reader in, it simply says "ERROR". No codes, no other language.
While trying to figure it out this morning, after trying to start it 50 times, it actually fired for a few seconds, but then died again.
I checked relays and fuses and nothing seemed bad. I swapped relays around too.
I unplugged the battery, then the computer, but nothing got it to fire again.
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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My father called me last night to say that his 2004 Ranger, 2.3L engine would not start. He said it cranked over but would not fire. The only other problems this truck has had was a misfire about 6 months ago, which was corrected by a new coil (wires and plugs were changed at that time also).
I looked at it this morning, starting off by cranking it just to see for myself. It cranked fine, stumbled some as if it was trying to fire but never would catch, and I noticed immediately the smell of raw gas from the exhaust pipe. It acted flooded, but injected vehicles are not supposed to flood, so...
No "check engine" light was on, and no codes at all showed on my Actron code scanner. The truck has a half tank of fuel in it, was last filled about a week and a half ago, and was last started about four days ago. It is kept in a garage, currently at about 45 degrees F. It ran fine up until the failure to start last night. I can hear the fuel pump running, and the two plug wires I pulled and checked were firing. I installed the wires back, held the pedal to the floor, cranked it over, and after a few seconds it fired and ran! On the second restart it started a little reluctantly, but multiple times after that it seemed to start fine.
We let it set for an hour or so, went out to try it again, and it would not start again. After I pushed the fuel pedal in just slightly, it fired and ran fine. I repeated this a couple more times while the engine was still cold; no start without touching the pedal, but would start if I cracked the pedal just a little bit. Once started the engine would idle high (1000-1100 rpm or so) for just a few seconds, then idle down as it should when warm.
I'm puzzled by no code, but I'm wondering if the IAC is bad, causing a no-air "flooding" condition if the fuel pedal is not depressed to crack open the throttle plate. That would explain the strong smell of raw gas at first. But, it seems like the IAC is controlling the idle briefly right after the engine starts, but it doesn't seem to be keeping the idle up as long as it should. Would the IAC throw a code if it were not working correctly?
My other suspicion is the TPS, but again without a code I am not sure. My Actron scanner is one of the better models and will read data from the engine; is there a way to check the AIC and TPS function once I do get it running?
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1997 2wd, 4.0 - As you can guess it runs pretty bad at idle. It has O2 heater circuit codes for all 3 sensors. I'm leaning towards the ECM because the 2 heater wires are both hot with the key on. I unplugged the computer and turned the key on and just one wire is hot. Looks like the ecm is supposed to ground the wire to turn the heater on, but it's going hot instead?
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Previously on "This Old Truck": [URL] ....
Mileage now 298,5xx. Done since last report: Oil change and filter. Trans oil change (merconIII, no leaks apparent). Tires. Front brake pads. Clutch safety switch (was interfering with cruise control operation) Coolant replacement. (see below)
Rat damage related overheat (near total coolant loss, but no MIL) at 288k. (Rat suffered acute lead poisoning later that night) No sign of rodents since.
Fuel filter change (after onset of symptoms).
NO MIL/CEL, no pending codes. CEL/MIL operates on KOST.
Temps normal (190F +/-2 deg during steady-state cruise operation, fuel flows and fuel mileage have not changed significantly. (fuel mileage has IMPROVED approx 5%, possibly due to gentler/slower driving)
M5OD with Limited slip 3.73/ payload pkg II (1650lbs)
Symptoms:
- Intermittent misfire on startup, seems to get better as the truck warms up. (intermittent= some days it do, some days it don't.)
- Truck starts and idles well, even with misfire.
- Intermittent loss of power, usually worse on days when no- or minor- misfire at startup/cold idle. From the driver seat it feels like accelerating over painted lines on a rainy day. . . a couple revs of no power, then it pulls hard for a second or two, then misses a couple of shots, lather, rinse, repeat.
- Usually worse in higher gears; (not noticeable in first or 2nd, bad in 3rd at high power settings, now almost constant in 5th, to the point that truck will not accelerate below 3000rpm in 5th even on flat ground.)
- Fuel flows above 4GPH/ OBDII "LOD" (engine load) reported above 75% are typical during malfunction. (Fuel flows have been as high as 9GPH with no problems on other days.)
Symptoms started at approx 292k and have been slowly getting worse over the past few months. . . . usually worse at beginning of trip, fading to very occasional after 50 miles of high-speed driving. Some days/trips no noticeable malfunction.
Thoughts:
1) Ignition wires tired? (did visual inspection, no obvious damage, but no water spray test performed, but seems likely given that the problem is most evident in conditions that would lead to high cylinder pressures.)
2) Fuel pressure? (not measured yet. . . original pump but possibility discounted due to intermittent nature of malfunction.)
3) O2 sensors tired/rat damage? (Original units still installed/ no obvious damage on cursory visual inspection under truck)
4) Injector going bad or injector wiring rat damage?
5) Plugged catalytic converters? (no sound of blown exhaust gaskets, exhaust flows well at tailpipe, with puffs at misfire.)
6) Cam sensor? (never been replaced; known issue with this model engine. Had intermittent mystery squeak that came and went at approx 250k-260k)
7) Clutch slipping? (never had one do that; always lose the throw-out first)
8) LSD problem? (fluid level/ appearance ok, last changed 150k; would expect worse in LOW gears)
9) Blown head gasket/s?
10) Cracked heads/ block? (Oil and coolant levels and appearance normal)
So: That's the plan of attack. What am I missing? (Clutch last done approx 170k; burned throw-out, did disk, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder while the trans was down. I did not open the hydraulics or disturb the pedal linkage when I replaced the safety switch. )
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Truck is a 1993 ranger 4.0 ohv
Ok I have been getting 157, 158, and 159 codes. I have cleaned and replaced the MAF with no success. I checked the voltage to the sensor 12v, checked the voltage from the signal wire and it is to high. It has been high on the cleaned unit and on both replacements, so I am thinking it is not the MAF, but what will cause it to register high. I cant get the signal voltage below 1.9V at idle.
Signal also reads high with the ignition on and the engine off. What would cause the voltage to be high, I have read it could be an IAC but I would think that would not effect it with the engine off.
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 110K which I have owned since new. It displayed the hybrid warning light (as well as check engine) 2 weeks ago and I took the car in to the local dealer.. After a little muddling around they came up with codes indicating that the computer for the battery was going. I purchased that Part Number: 8989047030 Part Description: electrical, battery, computer H.V. SUPPLY. and the dealer installed that part a couple of days ago.
Now the following codes (and only these codes according to the dealer) are displaying and indicating faults in the main battery: P3006 and P3000.
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