Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Burping The Radiator?
Dec 28, 2009
I replaced a cracked radiator with a new one on my 2000 model B2500 a coupla' days ago, guessing at the refill, as I just got the truck and don't have a manual. Guestimate was pretty close, but I got some weirdness from the temp gauge for a bit. Temp gauge read cold (even though it was maybe sixty degrees outside) after idling for quite a bit, but would rise to operating temp if I ran the RPM's up a bit, then fall back to cold when I let it drop back down to idle.....never rose to above normal operating temperature, though.
I took a short drive down the road, stayed at normal temp, but dropped back down to cold when I parked it. Taking a peek under the hood, had air blowing out into the resevoir, bubbling like bathtub farts. All appears to be normal today, but I've gotta' take this truck for a roadtrip in a coupla' days and would like to make sure I ain't missed a step that'll send me hikin'.
What is the process of burping the radiator so's I can be sure it's all good?
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I am fixing the front of my 2000 Ranger? I need to replace everything from the radiator support fwd. I need to know how to get the radiator support out.
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I have a 2000 Ranger, V6 4L, and I believe my head gasket is blown, my radiator fluid goes straight to the oil pan. It has probably been leaking for a while, I did not realize it was leaking internally, I had been adding coolant for a few months but thought it was my radiator leaking because it had a crack in the housing, so I had that changed, but then a few weeks after that It gave out. I drained, and flushed the engine twice, and just parked it. My question is, should I just have the head gasket changed, or does it need a new engine because it had been leaking for a while and not sure what kind of damage it has done internally.
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I bought me a 1993 Ford Ranger with 3.0L and 123K miles a few months ago to save on some Fuel. My F-250 was killing me. The Ranger Runs Great! Lately My Check oil Light has been coming on. So I have Checked the oil and it was slightly below the Full line each time the light came on, so I added each time. I have been wondering where the oil has been going cause it has not leaked anything on the ground. Thought it might just be burning a little oil. Well I come out today and on the front right side I see a small area of leaking Fluid. Of course it being Green I knew it was Rad. Fluid. So I Checked Fluid at the Rad Cap and it was Clean and not that low. Then I go and Check the Rad. Overflow Res. and it is Brown. and I can see where it was overflowing a little out into the engine Compartment. So that Kinda of explains where my oil has been going. I am aware the trans Fluid Cooler is in the Rad. and I am 99% sure its oil since I have been having to add oil. I have also Checked my Oil and no Rad. Fluid is getting in the oil at all.
Anyways I have done a little Research and I have seen Blown Head Gasket and Cracked head a lot in my research. So I am guessing I am looking at one of these two issues? Or is there more possible issues that it might be? As little as I paid for the Truck I dont think it would be worth fixing if It was one of those two things.
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I opened up my hood yesterday to check on everything and happened to notice that my radiator cap was gone. I don't know if I just forgot to put it back on the last time I checked my coolant or what happened, but I of course immediately bought another one and put that on. What happened to the old one. Looked all through the engine and didn't see a cap laying in there anywhere.
Anyway, do I have anything to be worried about? My truck has never overheated or anything. I really don't know how long I was driving around with that cap off. The coolant was a little low in the radiator but actually not too bad. Only had to add a little to get it back to the top. Should I be worried that this caused any damage in any way or am I OK since I never overheated?
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1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
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For a while now I've been having issues with my truck overheating. Generally when I slow down, come to a stop, after driving a while. The other I replaced the radiator cap, as coolant was bubbling out after driving far. Thermostat was replaced. Radiator was flushed today as there was some rusty color build up. Added engine oil as it was VERY low the other day. So far I'm still getting the overheating issues and it seems to happen more so when I run my AC. I've noticed no significant leaking from anywhere else after replacing the cap. I'm thinking of either the water pump or the fan? But I dont know how to know for sure and I dont want to replace parts that I dont have to as a waterpump alone is $50-60.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0L manual transmission. I just replaced the starter/solenoid on it a few days ago. I went to start it, and I got 1 click and the whole system goes dead (ie: lights, instrument panel, everything!) I checked all the fuses and the starter relay in the fuse box. All good. I tested the battery, it's charged and good. I even tried jumping it. Same problem.
I can remove power from the system, re-apply power and same issue. I'm not even sure where to start here. I checked the ground terminal on the battery. It's connected to the frame and clean. Cables are tight to the battery and clean.
What am I missing?
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2000 ranger 3.0 auto 4wd hard to shift. Are the cables known to stretch?
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I am experiencing Dismal fuel Economy, I filled the tank about 16 gallons (tank read full) and went 118 miles, I burned to about 1/4th of a tank remaining, so a rough estimate is I burned 12 gallons of fuel to go 118 miles, leaving me 5-8MPG Cruising 50-60 miles an hour.... What should I be looking for..... I have 110,7XX on the truck. it's slow as heck, it hesitates and just has no get up and go unless you really step on it. It's had a recent tune up.
Plugs were changed at 105,000 miles roughly.... I'm at a loss to know why this little truck is burning so much fuel. It's the 6 Cyl Flex fuel engine. with just normal fuel run in it...I've looked at night for arcing wires and there's no flashes... there is no real miss, I checked the intake for pirate air and fixed one minor leak and have recently rechecked it as well...I've not pulled the plugs out again yet....
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This has been an issue for about 8 months now. I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4. So far compression test, new gas filter, fuel injectors cleaned, spark plugs and wires replaced. coil pack replaced. Heater valve was leaking but was replaced.
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OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use?
Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
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2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what??
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My buddy bought this 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the 3.0 and 150,000 miles for 500 bucks. After he bought it, the number 2 spark plug boot caught on fire, and turned completely to ash. So we parked the damn thing, and have been training ever since, but it did run when we parked it. We replaced all plugs, wires suspecting a bad plug (and they were all fouled). Went to start it and now its on the verge of starting, but can't quite get there. So here's what we've done since.
-Replaced coil (had it tested, failed primary test on terminal 1, and secondary on 3 and 4)
No change
-Checked Spark by grounding spark plug
Good
-Checked Fuel at rail
Good- Held until empty, primed Fuel system (key on for 3 seconds 5 times) checked again, good)
-Truck had been sitting for three months, so put in small bottle of stabil and added 5 gallons with Lucas. Primed the system about 20 times, and tried to start. No effect.
-Checked battery.
1 bad cell, 3 low on water- replaced battery. Allowed it to crank for longer (before we were jumping it) but still didn't want to.
Note of concern : After we replaced the battery and went to start it, when the key was disengaged I noticed a hissing sound coming from the radiator cap. The truck is in Upstate new york and hasn't been ran in 3 months. I'm hoping its not but thinking it is a cracked jacket or a blown head gasket.
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I have a 2000 ranger and the right low beam went out, we changed the bulb to no avil. I thought it might be the light switch so we changed it also ,nothing!! We have checked the only ground, I can find for the lights (on the driver side under the fuse box under the hood). This problem has me stumped . Another problem that may or may not be related is the cargo light does not work either...
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We have a 2000 ranger 2wd with a 5 speed transmission, we just had new tires put on last Sunday and on the way home it had a vibration in 5th gear at 55 mph whats so strange about it is, in 4th gear at 55 mph. it don't do it but when you shift it to 5th and hold it at 55 it starts.
I have checked the drive shaft and even put it on stands and shifted through the gears and held it at 55 no vibration, I guess because there is no load on the drive train. the truck only has 56,000 miles on it.
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My parents 2000 Ranger has an CEL for cylinder 4 misfire, but it will clear on its own and then start up days/weeks later, is this common? Could it be an injector?
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I have a misfire mystery going on in my girlfriends 00 ranger. What is going on, is there is an intermittent misfire on #4. I have an ultra gauge hooked to it, so most of the time when it does it, it will flash a pending code. A lot of the time, the pending code will go away, but sometimes it will set the PO304 code.
First I tried a tune up. New plugs and wires, air cleaner, cleaned out the throttle body. This cured it, for a short while. Then we were back to the pending code / setting code for #4.
When I pull the plug on #4 it is sometimes wet with gas. If you put a new plug in it runs fine for a while. In fact the last time we took a several 100 mile trip with it right after plug change, and it ran great. The pulled plugs re always in good condition with no burn, oil, chips or glazing. I have been using the standard autolites that are in advance auto's computer for that engine. No issues with the other 5 so I figure they re good enough.
The day after we came back I get the call... Honey its doing it again. Often to the point of having no power at all.
But it will clear itself usually, if not a new plug for #4 will cure it immediately.
So I thought something is killing this plug.... Or flooding it. SO I ran 2 cans of sea foam though it, put in a new plug and an new wire. It fixed it for a week then it did it again.
Ok I think... maybe the coil pack is bad either killing the plug or just not firing it at all? So since the pack has never been change in its nearly 300K life (to my knowledge, shes had the truck since about 60K) What the heck.... a new coil pack for the old thing.
I have not had the chance to clean the MAF but we are talking misfire on one cylinder, every now and then with no real conditions that set it off. More often than not its a pending code that you can even hear or feel and other times its a full blown miss that drags the truck down. Well for a short while until it clears up or I replace the plug.
3 cans of seafoam surely would have cleared a sticky injector. I realize it could be a bad wire to that injector but I have not had the time to tear the fiddle bits off to get to it to clean and test it... or just replace it.
Honestly Ive had a lot of cars and trucks, I don't remember ever having to replace an injector. Ive had bad wires to them but they misbehave ALL the time. This problem is so intermittent its freaky.
She says it does it mostly when its cold or not totally warmed up. Almost always, by the time the engine is hot it goes away.
And hot for this truck is over 185F, which I think its too cold to be running and the thermostat needs changed BUT she thinks cool=good. I keep telling her no, cool is often not good, the engine needs to be up to the operating temp.... which to me means 190-200. Her ranger runs between 170-180 all the time. I doubt thats causing the problem but still.... I think new thermo is in order.
My thinking is since it runs so cool all the time, the issue might be related to a spike in the temp over 180 ish, that gods forbid is opening a crack somewhere to suck air or lose compression.
And a compression test is my next step on #4 if/when it does it again. Now I have had cracked valves before, I don't recall them acting this way. After all sometimes the thing will go 100s of miles under different driving conditions and run fine. I don't think a cracked valve would be that nice.
Shes getting @18 MPG mixed driving, when it runs t runs like a bear. It always fires right up. There is no smoke, white or black. There is no water in the oil, no oil in the water. No audible exhaust leaks. No ticks knocks or oddball noises. For its age and miles almost 300K it runs perfectly.
Well until it has its intermittent issue with the misfire, that isnt bad enough to actually set the code.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0L with intermittent no start. Have spark, fuel pressure is 55psi, temp sensors are reading correctly. When there is a no start condition I can pop the scharder valve, relieve the pressure on the fuel rail and it will start.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 4.0L v6. My problem is the abs light stays on and the speedometer won't work till i hit about 35-40mph.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L engine, 2 wheel drive, with automatic transmission. Check engine light came on about 3 months ago. checked with scanner and P0401 EGR flow insufficient came up. cleared it and it came back. truck seems to be running fine. I didn't take autoshop as a kid, so i probably will need a little hand holding on this one.
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