Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - ABS Light Stays On / No Speedometer
Jan 20, 2005
I have a 2000 ford ranger 4.0L v6. My problem is the abs light stays on and the speedometer won't work till i hit about 35-40mph.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 ford ranger 4.0L v6. My problem is the abs light stays on and the speedometer won't work till i hit about 35-40mph.
View 14 RepliesSold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
I have the infamous ABS light & speedo not working on my 2000 Ranger. I replaced the ABS Speed sensor on the rear diff as has been suggested on many posts, but it didn't solve the problem. Did I get a bad part or is there something else I should go after?
View 7 RepliesThe battery light in my well used 1997 Ranger came on a few weeks ago. Only use the truck on the weekends. Battery reads 12v. Alternator putting out 14v. Replaced terminal clamps as they were in bad shape. Light is still on.
Weak battery possibly? Does it need to read higher than 12v for the light to be off, I wonder?
Last night the speedometer started acting up, would fluctuate when the truck went over bumps and completely cut out on moderate right turns. Looked underneath as well as one can in the dark and couldn't find anything loose.
This morning I searched on here and the VSS came up numerous times as a common failure. $15 and about a half hour later I had it installed, and while I was under there I took a better look at the other connectors to double check harness connections for tightness and cleanliness. It all looked good, so I went ignition on... and the light came back. Tried clearing it by keeping the diag connector unplugged while switching ignition off, but no go. Took it for a quick spin around the parking lot, and the speedo was completely dead.
Hit up my factory ETM, found all the relevant connectors and set up a wiggle test of the VSS circuit with the DVOM on audible continuity check. Found one of the wires had chafed against the body right by the under-cab harness connector and worn almost completely through. Cut out the bad bit, soldered and heat-shrunk a patch in, and took it for a spin. Voila! No more ABS light and a working speedometer.
Also fixed the fuel gauge sending unit wire which was in the same connector grouping and chafed (but not yet broken) in a similar manner.
In the past week after work the door ajar light comes on and stays on. I've checked all doors and they are not ajar. The dome light comes on when i start the engine and goes off after a few seconds, but only when i have this door ajar problem. After I get home and shut off the engine for about 30 seconds, then restart, the dome light nor the door ajar don't come on.
View 14 RepliesI have a '96 Ranger XLT. Just recently the dome light stays on while the truck is running. I have checked both doors and door frames. For the life of me I do not see a switch. The light does go off eventually after the truck is shut off (without killing the battery). What or where is the switch for this light..
View 14 RepliesThe air bag light stays on & the blower in not working. I checked the fuses good.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
View 3 RepliesI lost the windshield wipers, speedometer, dome light, door alarm. Check all the fuses I can find all are ok. Whats wrong.
View 7 RepliesThe Speedometer is not working, it always stays on ZERO, and also the mileage are not running, so my car is not accumulating miles.
I already change the Speed Sensor (VSS), and the Transmission Speed Sensor. (Attach Files for References).
What can be wrong? Maybe the Speedometer Instrument Cluster? My car is a Hyundai Accent 2003 Auto Transmission.
so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
View 4 Replies2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
View 5 RepliesI have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
View 1 Replies1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
My 2000 ranger with the 3.0 is only getting around 10 or 11 mpg. It's got a check engine light on but the scanner just says lean condition. The truck also has a rough idle. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2000 Ranger. I bought it at company auction for cheap because it wouldn't start. The battery was dead when I got to it. I put a brand new battery in it since it has 155,000 miles. When you turn the key to the on position, the theft light starts blinking rapidly. It will continue to do so for about 45 seconds if you leave the key on; then it will go out. However, if you turn the key to start, all you hear is relays clicking. The engine doesn't crank at all. I jumped the starter relay and the engine turns over. I have the factory manuals for wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures.
The theft system relies on trouble codes to point you in the right direction for testing. I borrowed an Actron code reader (like you get at Autozone) and it says there are no codes. I'm wondering, though, if it only reads the SAE standard codes from any vehicle and not the manufacturer specific codes like the theft system. I have gone through a few of the diagnostic procedures with a multimeter, but it's like looking for a needle in a haystack without the codes. So far everything I've checked has come back ok. Any common issues this might be related to? BTW, I've gotten bits and pieces of info about this truck from the guys who drove it. Apparently, it just wouldn't start one day and was parked for the next several months until I bought it.
OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger. Like I posted previously it is running kind of rough so guess I know why now.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use? Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
I have a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2.3L and the temperature gauge has been staying a cold. And my heat doesnt heat well. I'm guessing I need to replace the thermostat. Before I do that could it be anything else?
View 9 Replies2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
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