1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
View 1 RepliesMy 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
View 4 RepliesI have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
My friend has a 98 ranger that has a lose connection on fuel relay under the hood, Hit a bad bump truck dies, Pop hood wiggle wire and your good till next bump. This got real old real quick. How this connection is made, Is it soldered?
View 2 RepliesI have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
1999 mazda B4000 4WD 178000 miles 5 speed manual, I've been having a crank no start problem but after a few tries it would start, a week or so ago it was really cold (23) it wouldn't start so I opened the air box and shot it with starting fluid it took about 5 long sprays but it started.
It ran up op 3200 rpms and won't go back down, took it to my shade tree mech. he hooked it up to the diagnose thing it showed no codes, he poured water over the motor it different places and toward the back it idled down for a second so he says "blown intake gasket' so we replace upper and lower and sure enough we could see where there was a bad spot on the upper and a cleaner spot on the port.
That was not the problem it still idles at 3200, I mean wide open screaming, could the starting fluid have done something? Now he says "blown head gasket" I never had any idle problems before matter a fact besides the hard starting problem that started it was running just fine, what happened?
2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
View 3 RepliesSo I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. This is my plow truck and I don't want to go through the winter without it.
View 14 RepliesI have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
View 3 RepliesOK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 3.0L engine that is having some issues with starting, here is what is happening.
Every so so often when the key is turned to start there is no movement from the starter motor. The battery is fine and all of the dash lights stay on while the engine is not starting. I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured model (possibly a mistake), and also replaced the clutch interlock switch.
I have attempted to change the ignition switch but the replacement I received did not even try to turn the starter (after many tries), like possibly it was faulty out of the box. I am currently using the OEM ignition switch as it will at least turn the starter eventually. I just worry that this problem will develop further at the wrong time.
I have a 01 Ford excursion 7.3 auto and it will not start unless you jump the starter relay, I have replaced the starter, starter relay and swapped out batteries from my 2000 F250 auto, not sure what to do and this is my daily driver. Not sure if this matters but just had the transmission rebuilt. I have tried searching other threads but still not finding what I need. Once it starts it runs and drives. When you turn the key you hear a click like a relay is engaging and all of the lights and gauges work it just won't start with the key.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
View 1 RepliesI have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
View 9 RepliesI just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
View 5 Replies Getting the Banana ready for it's smog test appt at the shop last night (it WAS today) Check engine light had popped on and it had been starting to sputter and surge at the idle occasionally for the last few days so I took a look at the MAF and saw dirty wires. Aha I can fix that, a couple squirts of MAF cleaner, plug it back in and voila! No more light, the Banana ran down the road around the block, over the hill and through the dale like a champ. I shut her down and call it a night.
This morning, hop in and fire the Banana up like usual and all I get is a nice peppy crank over. The Banana has had a bunch (pun intended) of new parts throw at her recently... new battery, starter solenoid, plugs and fuel pump relay and fuel filter. All within the last couple of months.
Out of complete disbelief, I ground on the ignition for a little while and she finally kicked over and sputtered to life. I let her idle a couple of minutes and things seemed fine so off we go. I make it about a block before the Banana starts hiccuping and bucking like something possessed and dies.... kaput.
The Banana has a 3.0, manual transmission and at least half a tank of fuel. Long story short and a tow truck ride home again, half a day trying unsuccessfully to pull a code, any code.... nothing. She will half-heartedly cough and spastically run with ether shots and near as I can tell I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail relief port. I'm really hoping there is some way to diagnose a faulty fuel pump without having to drop the tank and fish the damn thing out.
I'm not hearing it run when the ignition is turned on but then again I don't think I've ever heard it run. Any other things to try before I replace the pump itself???
I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.