Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - While Going Uphill Cuts Back / Looses Power And Jerks?
Jul 17, 2015
I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
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All the brake lights and master lights are on, and it seems to drive fine then at a stop light i start to move and it jerks a bit then looses almost all power it will still drive but barely and it has high RPM'S then I pull over and restart the car and it goes away for about another 10 to 20 miles. DTC codes are fuel to air meetering, replace hybrid battery pack, and block 11 becomes weak, do you think this might be caused by a bad skid control ECU?
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Burnt feedback hoses off and has no power going up hills, changed plugs and wires and did complete tune up still no power will the EGR valve cause it not to have power going up hill? No codes or check engine light on at this time.
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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I got a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.5L that randomly jerks on the highway and I can't figure out what the problem is. This morning I had a 3 hour drive and it was fine on the first hour and then the last 2 hours it will randomly jerk on the highway and then be find for a little bit and then do it again. I don't know what the issue is? I did scan my car this morning and did have two code P0141 and P0113 not sure if these would have anything to do with it or not. Also my speedometer is hit or miss when it works, other than that everything else is fine on the car no check engine light or anything like that.
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I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
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Still cant seem to fix this 87 ranger 2.9... NEW fuel reg, fuel press reg, rebuilt computer.cold it will start and run fine.then it will shut down with in 5 to 18 miles then you cant hear the front or rear pumps at all!. Let it sit over night and your off again.. Can't get any codes.. Can a pump over heat and shut both off??
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The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
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2001 M B3000 v6 my sons truck w 122k. He is overseas and I took it to deliver a CB750 bike to my brother in law... 4oo miles away from my place.
In the middle of nowhere TX it developed a bad miss or knock, almost a shudder in the 2 to 3 k rpm range. Idles ok just below 1k runs fine at 70 mph as long as the rpm is near or over 3k.
Not sure I want to turn around and drive back the 400 with it running like crap. I will take it to Autozone and pull codes tomorrow a.m. but what should I expect?
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I have a 2006 2.3 ranger motor runs fine at idle and as I ride down the road the motor just cuts off. If I pump gas it will take off again and in 3 miles it will do it again. After 20 miles running good it will cut off again. Replaced coil pack, fuel pump, Cam sensor, Idle control sensor! What else could be causing this?
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Driving a 2008 Ranger XLT 3.0. Starts runs and drives fine, how ever it seems to have a tinny ruff idle.
What I noticed is when in park or neutral when I idle it up @ 3000 RPMs it seems like it runs on 3 cylinders and sort of cuts in and out very quickly. Is this a protection thing on the ranger.
Running on the road it kicks down and runs thru all the gears normally from idle all the way up to 5000 RPMs. Just would like to make sure this is normal.
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I have a 99 Super Cab 4x4, 4.0, XLT. The radio has terrible static and the back lighting of the climate control goes off and comes on at different intervals. Are the two issues related?
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Here's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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The Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
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I was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
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Where the factory BT module is located? The other day while listening to music, I hit a bump and my bluetooth cut out, then came back about 5 minutes later. Almost as if it lost connection to the stereo then reconnected....wondering if something isn't connected securely...
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I had suddenly developed a case of P/S high frequency SHUDDER, on my 99 Ranger, when the steering wheel was moved to either side of center. The fluid level & condition were A ok!!!!, I have kept it changed, so it's never gotten dirty. I removed about 4 oz of fluid from the P/S pump reservoir & added a like ammount of SeaFoam Trans Tune, to bring the level back up to full. In about 10 min 90% of the shudder was gone, After a 40 mile fishing trip to the lake, 99% was gone. The next day, after another 40 mile drive to the lake, fishing, it's ALL gone. So if your experiencing P/S shudder, try a SeaFoam Tans Tune treatment & a fishing trip or two, maybe it'll tune both of you up, did ME!!!! LOL BTW this is the second time the Trans Tune has worked on a P/S sticking/shudder problem, worked on my 94 Taurus two years ago, when I was experiencing a "sticking" problem with the steering wheel turned WELL off center & it's still ok. So if your having that kind of P/S problem, don't be afraid to try the Trans Tune, & a fluid flush & change, if it's dirty, like the Taurus fluid was, it just might WAKE things up.
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When I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
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