My truck is stuttering while idle and gets worse once it's in OD. My Check engine light is not on(yes it works). How to diagnose the problem. I don't know whether the plugs need changed, wires, fuel pump..
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
I've got a 99 Ranger. A month or so ago, it started to be a little hard to start. It would turn over, but not fully start unless I gave it a little gas. This did not happen all the time, primarily it happened after it had sat all day when I left work. Not long after that started, my check engine light came on. The codes were for a lean mix as reported from the 02 sensors. Before I could dig any further, it just wouldn't start at all one evening. This was after I had driven it for 30min and then parked it for an hour or less. But this time it was different in that the solenoid would just click, but that was it, like it didn't have enough power to turn over. I took the battery to have it tested and it had been severely discharged.
I got a new battery as that one had reached it's limits. Put it in and the truck started right up no problem. A few days later it started acting up again like it had originally, I had to give it some gas to get started. I had the alternator/starter checked, both were fine. A day later, it got so bad that I had to shift to N and keep giving it fuel anytime I stopped the truck. I had to do this all the way to and from work. Now this morning I go out and it starts right up, no issues, no dying at idle and didn't have bit of problem coming in. Initially we thought it must be a fuel pump, but then I can't explain why it worked fine this morning. I changed the fuel filter less than 2 years ago, so I wouldn't think it would require changing already. Wondering if there's a sensor issue, one that calls for appropriate amount of fuel?
I have had my '99 Ranger since 2002. Since it has started getting hot in Texas, the truck has decided to stall at horrible times. When driving on the interstate, there is no problem, but as soon as I get in town and have to let off the gas to turn or stop, the whole truck dies. Unless it sits for a long time, it will continue to die at every stop. It is harder to start each time. I have changed the fuel filter and added STP to the last tank of gas. Also, it is tough to start and keep running until it has warmed up on any day. I have to sit in the truck and keep the idle up so it won't die.
View 1 RepliesI just got a 99 2.5 rwd auto and it shakes when it's at idle in gear. I'm pretty sure its because the AC pulley is engaging drawing power. I was thinking about turning the idle screw up a blonde-one because when I hold the brake and give it slight gas it goes away.
View 3 Replies1999 mazda B4000 4WD 178000 miles 5 speed manual, I've been having a crank no start problem but after a few tries it would start, a week or so ago it was really cold (23) it wouldn't start so I opened the air box and shot it with starting fluid it took about 5 long sprays but it started.
It ran up op 3200 rpms and won't go back down, took it to my shade tree mech. he hooked it up to the diagnose thing it showed no codes, he poured water over the motor it different places and toward the back it idled down for a second so he says "blown intake gasket' so we replace upper and lower and sure enough we could see where there was a bad spot on the upper and a cleaner spot on the port.
That was not the problem it still idles at 3200, I mean wide open screaming, could the starting fluid have done something? Now he says "blown head gasket" I never had any idle problems before matter a fact besides the hard starting problem that started it was running just fine, what happened?
My manual 5 speed 99' 2WD 2.5L Ranger is starting to have some small problems here and there. My main concern is when I start the vehicle sometimes, there is no idle. The vehicle will turn over and if I do not hold the gas pedal down it will die immediately after about 2 seconds.
If I hold the gas down so the RPM's stay up (Around 700 RPM's or so, something just a little above 0 to keep it from dying) after about a minute, sometimes few minutes the idle will kick in and I do not need to hold my foot on the gas pedal to keep the truck from dying.
This is about all I know from the problem besides that it does not matter how long my truck is sitting. For example, my truck was sitting for 5 days and I came home and started it up just fine, but after I drove it a few minutes later and stopped driving, when I went to drive it about an hour later the symptoms came back again.
Also, My brakes are acting a little funny. I went through when I first got the vehicle and bled the brakes, took the front rotors in to auto zone or another shop and had them fixed up, and new brake pads. Sometimes when I first start driving the brakes are extremely sensitive, to the point where I apply a little bit of pressure and my truck will start skidding. This goes away after driving for a little bit though.
1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 B4000 4.0L with 160K miles on it. Bought the truck new. Up until about a year ago it ran perfect but has developed an idle, stalling and occassional jerky ride problem. It occurs at any temperature, engine hot or cold, A/C clutch on or off and in Park, Drive or Neutral. When you start the engine it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The idle speed will drop to 200-300 rpm and the engine dies. Sometimes you can barely tap the gas pedal and the rpm will shoot up to normal idle speed (about 900 rpm) and stay there a few seconds then begin to drop again. If the engine is cold it will often die a couple times after starting even with the foot on the gas and then about the 2nd or 3rd time run with your foot on the gas.
At stop signs and red lights you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you are approaching a stop sign and take your foot off the gas to coast to a stop and brake, the engine rpm will drop and the engine will die. It always starts fine though. Once you are driving it generally runs just fine at low or high speed. You can generally set the cruise control on the expressway and cruise right on. However, sometimes all of a sudden the truck will start bucking and jumping as if it has a terrible misfire. It usually lasts a few seconds and quits. Often if you step on the gas it quits. Even less occasionally the engine will begin to slow as if it is starved for fuel and slow down. You can press the pedal to the floor and it sputters a bit then picks up and runs fine.
I have read about all the threads in this forum and others and tried some of the suggested fixes but it still has the problem. I have tuned it up with new plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. Based on some of the forums advice I have replaced the IAC valve, the EGR valve and EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor, and cleaned and inspected the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I have checked all my vacuum lines and no leaks there and checked the engine timing which is fine. Fuel rail pressure and engine compression are also fine. Spark plugs show no clues, exhaust is clean and the engine uses virtually no oil. There has been no tear down on the engine like removing the heads, cam, timing gears or any of that and the engine is completely stock.
It shows no codes related to the problem. Two or three months after the problem started I showed a code that indicated an injector problem, traced the problem to a bad injector, replaced the faulty injector and it was fine. That took care of that code but didn't solve the idle problem. In my younger days I was into drag racing and I rebuilt engines, swapped transmissions, etc. and still do my own tune-ups today so I am fairly familiar with auto repair and have most of the tools for testing newer cars but this one stumps me. As a last resort I'm about to take it to the dealer.
I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
View 2 RepliesI recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
View 14 RepliesWhen I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
View 14 RepliesMy 04 ranger is back at it AGAIN. It started about 3 years ago.
- Cruising along on the highway and then come into town. Idles at 2000 RPM
- Shut it off. and restart it. Again, 2000 RPM.
- Shut it off and it idles normal
- Drive it 2-3 day and then it idles high again
- I have clean and functioned the IAC and it works fine
- Cleaned throttle body and I never can get it to stick.
- Replaced throttle cable
It still was idling high
- Replaced ECM and it idled normal for about 1 year
- Replaced em again and it idled normal for about 6 months
It is back at it again. For what ever reason the EM is telling the IAC to open up and raise the idle...
Allright, I seem to be having these very strange sounds at idle. Mostly when I am in Drive and waiting at a red light. In Park, it isn't as bad it seems.
One sound is knocking. A kinda slow one and irregular. Not a motor knock tho. Doesn't sound like that. It also kinda clicks from under. So, those both sounds come from under or the sides of the truck.
Should I worry about this? I've had these sounds since I've got the truck. Sometimes louder than usuall.
88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
View 9 RepliesWent with my best friend to pick up his new Super Duty and also visit his Grandfather in Easter Washington. The new 2014 F30 is wonderful. His Grandfathers Ford / Mercury Escort Wagon had the timing belt break and a local shop replaced it, ran good for two days then started loping. When cold it starts and runs great in about 2 min it comes off of cold loop and then starts loping from fast idle to all most off. (never seen a motor RPM drop so low and not stop) when you put it in gear it runs, we did not drive it but Grandfather said it drove home ok just started not idling when in neutral or park.
View 6 RepliesMy son bout his first truck yesterday. 98 ranger sc 4x4 auto 4.0. Beautiful shape 139000 miles. got it cheap as it has issues. its been parked for a year. It has a surging idle when you start it up. rev it to 2500-3000 rpm and it idles fine turn it off and restart it surges again until you rev it. When we test drove it it ran like it was running out of gas/bad fuel pump, sputter at full throttle but accelerate at part throttle. Gauge said under 1/4 tank of gas. We put 3 gallons of gas in it when we got home and it seems to run fine now other than the idle surge. it had a 174 code(lean bank) but if it was running out of gas it should pull a lean code right? I am thinking IAC or intake leak.
View 9 RepliesOn startup, hot or cold, I get an initial high idle, up to around 1800 rpm's. This happens immediately when engine starts, and then idles right down. This has done this since new in '04. Dealer at that time said it was normal and not to worry. It's always made me wonder, but I trusted the dealer. Ya, not always smart.
After 92k miles. Engine runs fine otherwise, but I don't really care for grabbing a bunch of rpm's on any engine without having the oil pressure up to normal.
A few weeks ago, I started it up, and some yahoo said he knew I drove big trucks by the way I started my Ranger. That was one of those times. I'm thinking IAC is wide open maybe?
Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.