Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Started To Loose Power When Driving Up A Hill
Mar 19, 2015
I was driving up a hill an it started to loose power. i got up to the top of the highway an stopped an it just shut down. got towed home i thought it could of been the alternator but dose not seem to be. took the belt off to spin the motor an its not spinning. drained the oil an there is no metal in it to see if the motor was done. i try to start it an it just dose a click click an that's it. Is the motor done or is it a transmission problem?
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99.5 7.3. 201,450 miles, Just developed a new noise. Was on interstate, in cruise, 65 mph, started while pulling a hill. Kicked it out of cruise and noise went away. I have found it will repeat just pulling a hill at highway speed.
Now for the noise....it almost sounds like lightly opening the secondaries on a gasser 4 barrel. I don't see anything unusual under the hood.
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I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
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On my '91 last week I was driving on the highway about 60-65 when all of a sudden the speedo dial started climbing to 70-75-80-85 and past. The odometer seems to be working ok? Still when I drive it still operates in the same manner. It never bounces around or falls back. The needle is sort of stable such if I maintain a speed the speedo will maintain even though it's incorrect. There is a slight wavering of the needle meaning it's not as stable as it use to be. With the odometer working I was wondering and don't know. Does the cable drive the needle or is it electrically controlled? I'm thinking of grabbing another instrument cluster it that is the problem, I'd like to know more about it and understand how it works so I don't just throw parts at it until it's fixed.
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I have a 99 ranger with 170000 miles and the front end recently started squeaking. its coming from the driver side but I can't pinpoint it.
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So a couple days ago I started my truck and it fired up like normal, but then sputtered out and died after a few seconds. I tried starting it up again and it did the same thing. I tried once more and it started up fine and I drove away.
It sounds like my truck is running out of breath or something and just sputtering out. Runs fine once it turns over though. My issue is that it is happening almost every time I start it now. I have to turn it a couple times before it catches. What this might be?
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
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Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
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Quick back story I bought a 1999 Ford Ranger It is a 4 cyl with an auto trans the guy said it had some trouble with the tranny (major understatement) he also forgot to mention he cut out the CAT. so running a 4 banger off the header.
When you start the truck it rough idles but you have to hold the gas down til it warms up. You can shift into reverse but it labors the motor and the motor will not up the rpms kinda stays at idle and wants to die no matter how hard you accelerate and you can't move up a slight incline.
When you shift into drive you have to rev the motor to 3 grand an it will catch then move slowly forward. no matter how high the revs go. The fluid levels are a tad above the full level and a bit dark for my liking.
Ok, I used an OBDII scan tool from the parts store and it came up with 3 codes P0351, P0352, P0500. From my internet search the first two seem to be coil related which explains why the motor is running like garbage. The last may or may not have to do with what the tranny is doing.
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My 1999 ford ranger, when started, shakes and then while i am driving. my check engine light is on and reads a #3 cylinder misfire. I have taken it somewhere to get it checked out and they can't figure out what is wrong with it. this problem only happens 50% of the time. I don't know what to do. Also just got a tune up.
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I've a 1993 2.3 and 1992 4.0 both with a/c systems down. On the 1993 Ranger I tried to loosen the evaporator tube nut to install the new accumulator now it looks like there's going to have to be a new evaporator. Without hardly any pressure that tube just twisted like it was nothing. Someone told me I have to spray it with wd-40 3 days prior to loosening it. I doubt that would even work. Hopefully removing the evaporator case cover under the hood won't be too time consuming because now I've got to. So I don't want to make the same mistake on my 1992 4.0. I need to change the accumulator, orifice tube, flush the evaporator, condenser, install the new hoses, and compressor before evacuating and recharging. Is there anything that makes it a breeze to loosening those evaporator and liquid line nuts without destroying the evaporator?
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Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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I am considering purchasing a 1999 4x4 ford ranger. The original owner has receipts for everything done on it recently. Rebuilt transmission, New ac, New shocks, new tires. I have never owned a ford but I always loved my friend's ranger. The only problem I had with it was an occasional clunking/rattling noise when test driving. I have read and was told this can be a common problem.
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I have a 2000 Ranger step side and the bed side is loose and and I'm trying to figure out how to reattach it. It's loose towards the front of the bed on the passenger side right where the actual step is. Is there an attachment point underneath the the plastic step cover?
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I really love this little truck. It's got 129,000 on it, but when I shut it down I can hear the chain clattering on the guides a little. Makes me wonder how much longer it will go before jumping a tooth. The truck has always been well maintained, but is there any ballpark figure when they usually let go? Is it worth it to pull the engine and put in a new chain? I'm fairly new to the Ranger.
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
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I have a noise in my rear end, if I grab the bed of the truck, and rock the body back and forth, I hear a clunk, almost sounds like a wheel is loose, but checked them, all good, also checked the U-joints, and pulled the driveshaft to grease the spindle. Thinking it could be in the third member, maybe the Differential pinion shaft, or the lock bolt......
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I have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
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Well, I had a friend put together my front brake rotor, now no more pulsating when coming to a stop, very smooth stop, new front brakes, had it aligned as well.. Also replaced the front shocks, however the passenger side came loose and rattles when going over bumps, speed bumps. I popped the hood, bounced my truck and could see it moving from left to right when bouncing front end of truck.
Question is, can i tighten it up myself, I dont have a jack, limited tools, I know, I know but i dont at the moment. My friend that worked on my truck lives a good drive and i hate to waste gas just for tightening something that should have been done but i have too, I will..
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