Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Started / Sputtered Out And Died After A Few Seconds
Dec 11, 2012
So a couple days ago I started my truck and it fired up like normal, but then sputtered out and died after a few seconds. I tried starting it up again and it did the same thing. I tried once more and it started up fine and I drove away.
It sounds like my truck is running out of breath or something and just sputtering out. Runs fine once it turns over though. My issue is that it is happening almost every time I start it now. I have to turn it a couple times before it catches. What this might be?
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I drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
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I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
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About a month and a half ago I was doing 70mph down the highway and the truck began to lean out sputtering and sounding like fuel was not getting there, when I pulled over on the side of the highway because it killed itself and then the car would not start I noticed the ox sensor for the 3rd cat was ripped out from being caught on the driveline, I removed ox sensor and car still wouldn't start. I took the truck to my buddies shop and after a new ox sensor was installed with some effort the truck started 30minutes later, I did not think this was reason for the truck to not start but after a day it was running like a top again, little did I know. Last week driving down the highway ironically in the same spot as before the truck did the same thing sputtered to a stop and would not restart.
Side Note: on both of these occasions after the truck would sit for a day it would start run for about 5 seconds and die???? So I had it towed home again and began reading FTE, I saw posts about fuel pressure and spark and P0176 code for Flex Fuel, Inertia Switch and so on.
So I started with Fuses they all look good then the most popular post and 2 of the codes were P0176 and P0177 for flex Fuel they read OBD II flex fuel wont start....Another code was for EVAP and 3 codes for heater bank(it turned out to be a fuse but is or could something trip this to send the car down this path?
I Then figured I would try the Fuel Filter..This did not work.
2nd I tried was Fuel pump pressure is good based off others posts.
So I bought the Flex Fuel Replicator that eliminates the need for the flex fuel sensor, from the guy in Portland, well this didn't work either. Next I went to spark checked all plugs they smelled like gas and were slightly fouled I had just replaced these about a year ago but hell why not? so I replaced and got nothing still also checked the oil had some gas smell to it but my buddy said this was normal with trying to get it to turn over without success.
Checked inertia cut off it was normal, checked fuses they were good(except heater which has been replaced). Now I am stuck...
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Truck quit running yesterday suddenly and unexpectedly. It sputtered briefly and the motor total quit running. I pulled over and tried to start and it briefly fired but then totally quit. Got towed home. And now testing to see what all to repair..Thinking fuel.
I don't get any codes from the tester with KOEO..just the good to go etc..no codes or the good to go 111..etc. Guess this problem can't be identified without motor running.
My wiring diagram doesn't give me all for my Calif car..I don't see where the relay is but my fuses are all good, and I'm getting voltage when I crank the motor at that inside firewall switch on both its wires(incoming/outgoing)..forget what its called..Inertia Switch?..that will shut off fuel pump during accident or impact etc. And I've read that this switch is upstream of the relay(if I read that post correctly) so guessing it's the pump itself that is bad.
Does that sound right? Should I go ahead and pull the fuel tank etc and replace the pump? Or is there more testing I should do? When I turn the ignition key on..the pump makes zero sound. That's not the way it normally operates. Usually with the key on the fuel pump comes on momentarily and I can hear it. Forget how to drain the fuel tank etc..I don't see a drain plug? I did it once many years ago..but forget how?
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A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
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I have a 99 ranger with 170000 miles and the front end recently started squeaking. its coming from the driver side but I can't pinpoint it.
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I was driving up a hill an it started to loose power. i got up to the top of the highway an stopped an it just shut down. got towed home i thought it could of been the alternator but dose not seem to be. took the belt off to spin the motor an its not spinning. drained the oil an there is no metal in it to see if the motor was done. i try to start it an it just dose a click click an that's it. Is the motor done or is it a transmission problem?
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I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
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Quick back story I bought a 1999 Ford Ranger It is a 4 cyl with an auto trans the guy said it had some trouble with the tranny (major understatement) he also forgot to mention he cut out the CAT. so running a 4 banger off the header.
When you start the truck it rough idles but you have to hold the gas down til it warms up. You can shift into reverse but it labors the motor and the motor will not up the rpms kinda stays at idle and wants to die no matter how hard you accelerate and you can't move up a slight incline.
When you shift into drive you have to rev the motor to 3 grand an it will catch then move slowly forward. no matter how high the revs go. The fluid levels are a tad above the full level and a bit dark for my liking.
Ok, I used an OBDII scan tool from the parts store and it came up with 3 codes P0351, P0352, P0500. From my internet search the first two seem to be coil related which explains why the motor is running like garbage. The last may or may not have to do with what the tranny is doing.
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On my way to work this morning check engine light came on, diagnosis came up with 2 codes p2181 cooling system and p1516 intake changeover. went to leave work car started then died after about 5 seconds then wouldn't start. as of right now I am thinking that it might be the coolant temp sensor? That's not letting it start? the past week it has been getting bad gas mileage and a low idle.
Mods done giac chip now set at stock setting
APR exhaust and intake
107,xxx miles
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My friend's 1997 4 cyl ranger died and won't start. Cranks fine with no codes on OBD2. Was running fine before it died.
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My 2001 2.5 manual suddenly died. The starter turns the engine over, but I don't get a) fuel (changed the fuel pump) b) spark c) Engine check light. When I plug the OBDII reader in, it simply says "ERROR". No codes, no other language.
While trying to figure it out this morning, after trying to start it 50 times, it actually fired for a few seconds, but then died again.
I checked relays and fuses and nothing seemed bad. I swapped relays around too.
I unplugged the battery, then the computer, but nothing got it to fire again.
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My Father in Law's 95 Ranger, 4 Cylinder, 5 Speed has started acting strange. It has, in the past 3 weeks just died suddenly, and won't restart. No action at all when you turn the key, as if the battery is disconnected. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour, and it starts back up again.
He has had it to a local shop twice, and the only thing they have done is let it idle for 5 hours at the shop. Of course, it never stopped.
Now they are saying it is the clutch, and depending on the type of clutch, (big or small).
I've been working on cars most of my life, and even had an 87 Ranger, and I've gotta call BS on this. He says it happens mostly when coming to a stop.
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98 Mazda B4000 4.0 4x4
I bought this truck about two months ago and it has been great no problems starts right up and runs like a top. I was installing a 4 channel amp yesterday on and off and the dome light was on all day as the doors would periodically be opened or closed so it never did that cycle of 10 min or whatever when the lights turns off. This is what killed the battery.
I had my neighbor jump me and after a few minutes of charging it started right up and idled for about a minute long enough he left and parked, then it stalled. I started it about another 6 times before the battery died again. Every time it started fine then would idle between 1-10 sec then start to sputter and eventually die. Pressing the accelerator pedal only killed it faster.
I got a new battery today as the other charges so that I could fix it today without missing work again tomorrow. Unfortunately it does the same thing I was hoping that the voltage was just low or the polarity flipped or something on the other battery.
To sum it up the truck never gave previous symptoms just simply ran too low (battery never DIED the lights came on just clicked when starting) on power and now stalls when started which it does immediately no long cranking.
The twist; truck has an aftermarket alarm by Python. Problem is I don't know anything about the alarm or if it comes with an immobilizer. I am in the process of trying to figure this out but need to pull dash or something to find the "brain"? Never had an alarm like this I disconnected the clear square that adjusts the sensitivity hoping that was it but I don't know where or what I assume the brain of the alarm is.
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I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
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I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
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SO ive been after this problem for a while now. When my truck has been sitting for 2 days or its a semi cold morning (35 degrees) the truck has a problem not starting. Ive changed the fuel pump, the starter (my starter was going bad anyways and I thought it could also solve the problem I was having), and the battery was just tested. If I leave my key on Acc for like 10 seconds then try to start, it starts right up or if I just re-start right after the first. Now I am leaning towards this being a fuel pressure problem but I am not sure where to start with that... My mechanic also said that it could be the wire that connect to the battery terminal because they can get corroded.
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Well it all started when I was having starter issues my starter died and my solenoid was just clicking and after time there was no power at all to anything in the truck i have replaced the solenoid and starter and check battery and cleaned post and terminals. I am going to replace my negative cable as it was pretty bad but if this still does not work, so what to look for. The truck is an 87 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed with a 2.9....
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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I've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
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