I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
View 8 RepliesI just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
View 4 Replies2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
View 15 RepliesI have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
View 2 Replies2014 RX 350 - 10,300 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak #2
Brought car into the dealership to repair my rear main for a second time. Looks like every 5,000 miles the leak shows up.
The dealership has repaired the rear main seal a second time, and guess what?
Two days later at the dealership the car started leaking oil again.
So now it's been identified that the entire short block needs to be replaced. Should take another week to repair.
This has been the worst experience I've ever had with a new car. Now I have a relatively new car (10,300 miles) that has had 2 rear main seals repaired, a short block replaced, replaced front parking sensors, and a radio that displays the wrong time when first starting the car.
I have a 1999 XLT and i had a bad moment yesterday. I always put the toolbox in the back side of the cabin, while doing maintenance i tried to open the rear door and I couldn't. I noticed its locked from the upper because the lower looks free. The other thing i noticed the two wires going to the handle to open it feels loose. First time happened to me and i really use that door often.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
I know where the filter is, i know how to bleed off the pressure. Im wondering if those clips are easy to slide off to remove the filter from the lines?
View 7 RepliesI'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
View 6 RepliesIs it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
I have a 2011 Ranger. It came with Sirius radio which works with the AUX button on the head unit. This setup is not what I am use to. Anyway I want to replace the OEM unit with an aftermarket. My question is will this AUX connection effect an aftermarket radio connection?
View 11 RepliesI've got a '84 ranger that idles super fast for about 30 minutes after a cold start. The truck has been in the family since new and has done it since day one. I am wondering if replacing the electric choke or choke pull down would work. I've got a electric choke replacement but the cover place looks to be attached with rivets not screws. How to remove the choke?
View 3 RepliesReplacing their door mirror with an aftermarket door mirror and not been happy with it?
I have a non-powered door mirror. if I understand my FoMoCo Workshop Manual correctly, I should be able to replace the exterior mirror glass without the need for a completely new mirror assembly.
So I have ordered practically a whole front end for my Ranger. I decided to replace all the bushings, ball joints and shocks. Only thing not getting replaced are the springs, steering knuckles/hubs and sway bar. I did find that the lower half of the upper left hand sway bar bushing was completely missing along with the upper left ball joint boot. I was looking into replacing the Rack and pinion bellows/boot. I noticed that there is a line that goes up into the boot where it attaches to the body of the rack and pinion. What is that and does it need to be removed to replace the boot?
View 3 RepliesMy 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
View 1 Replies2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
View 5 Replies1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2000 ranger w 158k miles, been having issues with a misfire over 65mph, and it's been throwing a check engine O2 sensor code. One of the probable reasons for the O2 code read low fuel pressure... so my husband got the bright idea of replacing the fuel pump.
That turned out to be a big story in and of itself. BUT we got it replaced with one that works, however.... now it won't start!!! You have to pump the gas and like crazy and hope that it'll start, it will eventually... but not without a bunch of coaching.
Once it's running, it's running ok. The first day after replacing the pump it was AWESOME, ran like it used to years ago, no misfire, smooth as could be, no rattle, no check engine light. But it all came back it's misfiring again, rattling when you accelerate, and the check engine is back on. I haven't had a chance to go run and get the codes ran again, maybe tomorrow I'll be able to do that in between errands. Oh, and we are gonna replace the fuel filter at some point in this week...
I have a 2001 ranger 3.0 auto 2wd and the abs light is on. this is what i have done so far. I had to replace all the front end joints so i took the front sensors and ohmed them and got continuity and voltage when i ran a metal past them and the same for the rear on the diff. so i figure they are fine. the wires to the frame look ok and i the truck has no damage so i figure the wires are fine.
I checked to see if the fuses are installed after I got the fuse layout and all the fuses are there and good. So I took it to advance auto and it came back with everything bad sensors motor controller and if anything else could be bad with the abs it said it was. I told them it is impossible for all of it to be bad. so it must be the controller. No I'm thinking the controller it the box attached to the abs pump and lines at the power distribution box under the hood.
Can I just remove that box and replace it with little difficulty or will i have parts fly out all over the place if i remove that box from the pump? All the pictures i see the the abs controller don't look the same as the one i have on my abs pump.