Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - No Max A/C - Recirc Does Not Work
Oct 18, 2016
Any schematic of the vacuum lines for a 99 Ranger with the 2.5 motor? I don't mean the general overview decal under the hood, but rather one that specifically includes the HVAC lines. I have two problems... one being that I have no MAX A/C (recirc does not work) and the other being that the vac line is busted off the heater core isolation valve and I can't find the other end of it (the end that supplies vacuum to open the valve).
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1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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Bought an 01 Ranger 4x4. The 4wd doesn't work, no clicking in kick panel, lights etc. got a used unit and plugged it in, blew my brake switch fuse (#9 on side dash) I failed to disconnect the negative ground ( oops) the original part # in the truck is
1L547H417AC
Do I need to get the exact same part number on a donor vehicle? I can get a CM for 25.00 at a local pick n pull, they have a lot or explorers there. Also will this solve my fuse issue? The truck sat for a few months and the battery died before I owned it.
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I have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
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Wiper problem is that they only work on high. The symptoms are as follow. The relay is working as the controls are ran thru the intermittent steps. I have tried two control switches and they acted the same. So, I believe the problem is in the motor. There doesn't appear to be any wire problems on the plug so it must be inside the motor. Could this be that grease problem inside the motor and it just needs to be cleaned and re-greased?
Radio, Has power to the plug but doesn't work at all. It doesn't appear to have a head unit fuse that I keep reading about. I have not tried to hook it up direct yet but will try that tonight. I am trying to get this truck ready to sell and need to get these items cleared up.
It is a 2001 XLT Extra Cab 4X4 with a 3.0.
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I am normally on the super duty side but I have a 2002 ranger 3.0 auto EX cab if that matters with this issue. My cruse control will only come on rarely but when i does it works fine. Most of the time when I hit the ON button the indicator only blinks like a "relay" of some sort is not latching up. Don't know if this is an all solid state system or if there are electro mechanical relays involved as well. When it does work and I hit the brakes it will drop out completely rather than just disconnect from the controller and need to hit the ON button again, usually with no results.
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I've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
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Water temperature gauge doesn't work. Assumed the problem was the sensor so bought a new one. Installed it, still nothing registering on the gauge after I know the water is heated up (drove it for 45 minutes, heater blowing hot).
So crossed the ground on the sensor and the gauge shot to the top so gauge is working.
Pulled wiring diagram and that sensor is SUPPOSED to register 79ohms for cold and 8 ohms for hot.. So bought a 10ohm resistor from radio shack and attached the water temp lead to it and the gauge read correctly about 1/8 inch from the H mark on gauge. This confirmed for me that gauge is not at fault.
Next I attached the ohmmeter to the sensor itself, boiled some water, placed the sensor tip into it and it read 86 ohms, in freshly boiled water! So at boiling the sensor isn't anywhere near to tripping the gauge to even start reading cold! So I tested the old sensor that I was replacing and in boiling water it shows 94 ohms?
What am I doing wrong, is there an assumption I am making here in error? I want to conclude the new sensor is bad, but the old sensor reads nearly the same reading under same conditions.So yes maybe they are BOTH bad but that seems to be pushing probability.
If it matters this sensor is the type that is inline from radiator to heater core, not the type that is in the engine block, at some point ford changed their sensor setup but didn't change the schematic drawing. Which doesn't matter the only difference is the one in-line has a ground wire to it rather then grounding off the engine block.
Vehicle is a 97 Ford Ranger with the 2.0 liter engine.
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I recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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Problem with 1157 LED bulbs . I install all 4 light bulbs the tail lights and front turn signal lights the problem is all lights work with the signal lights. but when I turn the head lights the front signal lights don't work. Also the turn signal lights on my dash board both light come on
One more thing if I install the regular 1157 on the front . the LED lights on the back work fine and the from work fine . looks like the front don't like the LED bulbs. I have 87 ranger cab and half or extended cab. v6 2.9
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Just picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
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My brake lights will not work but all other lights do, bulbs and fuse have been replaced.
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I went to transmission shop today and tech told me c solenoid was showing performance problem when scanned. He took it for drive and said it was commanding shift into fifth gear. It is a 3.0 extended cab 2wd with just over 200000 on truck, transmission was rebuilt just over 25000 miles ago. Fluid is so clean its still clear looking just faint red color. All other gears shift and pull great all electrical clean and hooked up, he crawled under it and said pan adjustments were tight, whatever that means.
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My 99 ranger has a strange issue its got a miss when the A/C is on, when going down the road I can feel the engine sorta pulse for a second, gets better the more I drive it, its got all new plugs and wires, not sure where else to look?
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Just purchased a 1999 4.0L 4WD, when I select 4WD Hi or LO sometimes it will go, sometimes it won't. Now the 4WD Hi and LO lights are flashing intermittently while I'm driving. At one point the Hi light burned and wouldn't turn off.
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Okay here's the story I bought a 99 Ford Ranger with a bad 4.0 engine. I had a newer 2002 4.0 and tranny out of another Ford Ranger thought it be an easy swap put the newer engine in and it will only run on the original Older ecm (but ruff) and the older ECM is screwing with the transmission (no reverse) unplug connections at tranny and i have reverse. So I buy a ECM from a junkyard for the 2002 and drop it off at the dealership to have the Pats programmed. and the dealership says they can't program it to make it run. They say the Pats are different from 99 to 2002. So I go another route I buy an SCT performance chip and have them disable the Pats. still won't run.
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My aforementioned ranger does not seem to heat up. Unless it is 95 degrees in the shade.... I have movement in the dash meter. Some - it will come off of the bottom - to not quite the c - then immediately dive back to less than cold ( which I realize is not possible) - engine seems to run fine. Use 93 octane or it knocks like a diesel. 135 K - I changed the thermostat. Less movement on gauge now than Before. Coolant level is fine. I read something in another post about the blend door. But my engine temperature doesn't even seem to be getting warm so how would the blend door be effecting that? I am an electrician not a mechanic, however I do all my own mechanic in in self defense. Since I cannot afford mechanics.
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I drive a 1999 ford ranger and can't figure out why my 4x4 won't engage. I have vacuum all the way down to the hubs and when I turn the switch it sounds like the transfer switch is engaging but the 4x4 still doesn't engage. What do you all think could be the issue? I thought about just putting a set of the manual locking hubs on it and just be done with it.
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