Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Miss With A/C On?
Sep 10, 2015
My 99 ranger has a strange issue its got a miss when the A/C is on, when going down the road I can feel the engine sorta pulse for a second, gets better the more I drive it, its got all new plugs and wires, not sure where else to look?
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1999 Ranger 4.0. I have an issue with my ranger. Sometimes the truck runs awesome.While driving along the truck will miss and sputter and buck, when this happens, I almost can't maintain my speed. Sometimes when this happens if I put the truck in neutral and shut it off and restart it. The problem will temporarily go away. Occasionally it will go away on its own. When it goes away on its own it's like someone flipped a switch and all power is returned and running smooth. When the truck is at idle it depends on the mood of the truck, sometimes it's fine and other times it wants to die. I got to make this truck last awhile longer.
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I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
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2002 Ranger XLT 4WD 4.0.. I was passing another car at about 55 when they also started speeding up (go figure) so I floored it and got on around them but before I lifted I felt it miss, the CEL began flashing so I slowed to the speed limit and went on to work. The light flashed for about a mile then went out. So on the way home I floored it again close to home and the CEL came on again. Got home and put the code reader on it and all it had was a random misfire so I have cleared it. The truck has new plugs, wires, etc for a complete tune-up. I don't usually run at full throttle so don't know if that would be normal for the Ranger, the Ranger was my wife's truck for 12 years and now is my DD. Need to clear this up? Thought of changing the fuel filter in that is still the original one.
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Just hoping that there is something common that causes this problem. This thing can idle just as smooth as you could want one to and the next time it will have a dead miss, and the miss is not consistent. It may miss like three hits then be ok a little then miss a little. There is no CE light or codes. Again just hoping there is something common.
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I have a 1987 ranger 2.9 V6. Have a intermittent miss @ idle when warmed up. What is the proper way to pull the codes from the computer, i,st something about counting flashes or lights...
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1993 3.0 V6 5 Spd ... Changed plugs wires Cap and rotor put in a new idle control Valve. No Check engine light. When i am running down the road feels like it surges,hickups, while its at idle the motor shakes like no tomorrow. Just dont want to throw money at something and not be the part that was wrong. Truck has plenty of pickup runs like a raped ape going down the highway. seems when i accelerate the miss clears up and not there. RPM gauge needle has some movement in it. Also put in K&N filter fuel filter as well.
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I have at 2007, 3 liter ranger. I just replaced the plug wires and coil pack. Ive checked and rechecked the wires, firing order is right,everything has spark but i now have a miss from a stop to 1500 rpm. what do i need to do to fix the issue.
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Its a 1994 with 4.0, automatic, 4x4. Running fine, parked it, a week later I'm getting a bad but sporadic miss that according to the stealership is the 3 cylinders on the right bank dropping in and out. Driving down the road you can feel them drop out and when they come back its a kick in the pants like a turbo kicked in.
Shop says wires are good, plugs are good, and then lost me when they started talking around in circles and not making much sense.
What could make 3 cylinders all on the same side of the engine drop in and out? This wasn't anything that slowly came on. Fine one day, crap the next. The only thing I did prior to was replace the IAC because it was idling high, it was cruddy inside, and it looked like it was original. It was running fine after that till this issue popped up out of nowhere.
Mileage was claimed to be 178k but I'm beginning to suspect it's probably 278k.
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I have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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I went to transmission shop today and tech told me c solenoid was showing performance problem when scanned. He took it for drive and said it was commanding shift into fifth gear. It is a 3.0 extended cab 2wd with just over 200000 on truck, transmission was rebuilt just over 25000 miles ago. Fluid is so clean its still clear looking just faint red color. All other gears shift and pull great all electrical clean and hooked up, he crawled under it and said pan adjustments were tight, whatever that means.
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Just purchased a 1999 4.0L 4WD, when I select 4WD Hi or LO sometimes it will go, sometimes it won't. Now the 4WD Hi and LO lights are flashing intermittently while I'm driving. At one point the Hi light burned and wouldn't turn off.
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Okay here's the story I bought a 99 Ford Ranger with a bad 4.0 engine. I had a newer 2002 4.0 and tranny out of another Ford Ranger thought it be an easy swap put the newer engine in and it will only run on the original Older ecm (but ruff) and the older ECM is screwing with the transmission (no reverse) unplug connections at tranny and i have reverse. So I buy a ECM from a junkyard for the 2002 and drop it off at the dealership to have the Pats programmed. and the dealership says they can't program it to make it run. They say the Pats are different from 99 to 2002. So I go another route I buy an SCT performance chip and have them disable the Pats. still won't run.
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My aforementioned ranger does not seem to heat up. Unless it is 95 degrees in the shade.... I have movement in the dash meter. Some - it will come off of the bottom - to not quite the c - then immediately dive back to less than cold ( which I realize is not possible) - engine seems to run fine. Use 93 octane or it knocks like a diesel. 135 K - I changed the thermostat. Less movement on gauge now than Before. Coolant level is fine. I read something in another post about the blend door. But my engine temperature doesn't even seem to be getting warm so how would the blend door be effecting that? I am an electrician not a mechanic, however I do all my own mechanic in in self defense. Since I cannot afford mechanics.
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I drive a 1999 ford ranger and can't figure out why my 4x4 won't engage. I have vacuum all the way down to the hubs and when I turn the switch it sounds like the transfer switch is engaging but the 4x4 still doesn't engage. What do you all think could be the issue? I thought about just putting a set of the manual locking hubs on it and just be done with it.
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I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 5 speed step side...in Jalapeno no less. Anyway, for the past 5 years or so the check engine light has been on. When it came on I did nothing because nothing seemed to change and I was too broke to fix it anyway. Well, just lately the check engine light has started to flicker or go out completely.
When this happens the truck seems sluggish and the A/C will stop working. As long as the check engine light is ON the truck runs like it always has, when it goes off the issues start. If I am stopped with the clutch depressed the idle will drop down to 500 rpms or so.
Kinda hoping it is something I can fix or at least learn about so I can have an intelligent conversation with a mechanic.
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Will move if n 4low and give some rpm's. Reverse is fine, disassembled and clutches look fine.
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Yesterday my 1999 Ranger 2.5L Automatic got really wierd! The check engine light came on, the overdrive light started flashing, the ABS light came on, and the transmission can't shift out of low, except manually...and to top it off the speedometer quit working! What the heck is going on???? This has got to be all connected somehow.
Up until now, I have had no problems. The truck has about 45K miles. I change the oil at 3-4,000 miles and try to take care of this as my teenage daughter drives this truck to school.
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I have a 1999 Ranger XLT 4.0 . The air is on all the time no matter what position the selector switch is in except "off ".
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[URL] ... Looking for info on my 99 Ranger.
Here's what happened,I have an electric plow I hook to my Ranger every year with no problems,except this year. The day after hook-up my wife noticed no high beams, don't know if the two are related but I did nothing but connect the plow wires already in place. Anyway I proceeded to look for a fix, fuses first, replaced both headlights next, blinker/high beam/wiper lever-still no fix and to boot my truck doesn't ding when keys in ignition, four wheel switch doesn't work, & wipers don't work.
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