1999 3.0. Been losing coolant internally. No water in the oil. Been back and forth on doing a full engine swap (its got 250k on it). So finally decided to just try the head gaskets. Anything out of the ordinary on these? Anything to look out for? Any special tools?
View 14 RepliesOne last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT and it has been getting wet inside and I would like to get this fixed, but have no idea of where the water is coming in at.
I also noticed that at time there is allot of moisture in the inside on the windshield, have no idea where that is coming from?
Also if I have my Floor Mats in and left them up it will be wet under them NO matter if it is Winter or Summer, so I took them out.
Also I have noticed that behind the seat on both side it gets wet and I have that window that you can open in the middle, would it be coming from there?
Also what would cause the doors to freeze and you have to pull as hard to get them open in the Winter time, are the seals bad on the doors?
Had the intake manifold replaced about 3 weeks ago. On the highway I stepped on the gas and something blew losing my coolant. I can see a place behind the #4 plug where water is coming out. No hose to be found. Plugged it and it got me back home but still losing water. Can't see where it's coming from but it pours out when running. Passenger side rear of motor.
View 1 RepliesI am losing residual fuel pressure on my 1996 ranger 2wd, 3.0, V6. Acts fuel starved after sitting for awhile, cranks ok turn key off starts up, sometimes i have to do this twice.
View 7 RepliesI bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.
97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
View 14 RepliesOk I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
When we have a heavy rain water leaks in on both sides saturating the floor board.
View 2 RepliesPlan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?
My 89 2.9 has gotten water in the oil. One year ago I pulled this engine to replace the crank shaft (defective Ford design 1/2 thust bearing created a nasty grove in the crank allowing it to slide back and forth1/4 inch), new bearings, oil pump, timming chain, all seals and gaskets (not head gasket). The engine had great compression so I didn't do any thing more. Now I have a leak. No oil in water. NO compression leaking off into the water jacket. No "steam" coming from the exhaust. I've replace the intake manifold gasket. It showed signs of water leaking through the gasket, actually bubbles of water trapped inside, so I hoped this was it, but I still have water in the oil. I have now removed the intake and driver side head (head gasket shows now sign of leaking). No signs of water in cylinders. Is it possible to have a warped intake manifold? I have removed it twice, and I was told that some V6's need to be slowly removed VIA de-torque the bolts. I didn't do it the first two times I removed it, today I did. I plan to remove the passenger side head tomorrow. I will take the intake down and have it tested for warping. I have read many stories on this web site of the heads getting cracks, but they all seem to be in or near the valves, I assume that allows water to be burned off as a steam engine OR compression being pumped back into the water jacket.
Is there any other source of the leak that I'm missing? Is it possibly my intake? OR should I go ahead and replace the heads?
I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
View 14 RepliesWater temperature gauge doesn't work. Assumed the problem was the sensor so bought a new one. Installed it, still nothing registering on the gauge after I know the water is heated up (drove it for 45 minutes, heater blowing hot).
So crossed the ground on the sensor and the gauge shot to the top so gauge is working.
Pulled wiring diagram and that sensor is SUPPOSED to register 79ohms for cold and 8 ohms for hot.. So bought a 10ohm resistor from radio shack and attached the water temp lead to it and the gauge read correctly about 1/8 inch from the H mark on gauge. This confirmed for me that gauge is not at fault.
Next I attached the ohmmeter to the sensor itself, boiled some water, placed the sensor tip into it and it read 86 ohms, in freshly boiled water! So at boiling the sensor isn't anywhere near to tripping the gauge to even start reading cold! So I tested the old sensor that I was replacing and in boiling water it shows 94 ohms?
What am I doing wrong, is there an assumption I am making here in error? I want to conclude the new sensor is bad, but the old sensor reads nearly the same reading under same conditions.So yes maybe they are BOTH bad but that seems to be pushing probability.
If it matters this sensor is the type that is inline from radiator to heater core, not the type that is in the engine block, at some point ford changed their sensor setup but didn't change the schematic drawing. Which doesn't matter the only difference is the one in-line has a ground wire to it rather then grounding off the engine block.
Vehicle is a 97 Ford Ranger with the 2.0 liter engine.
I looked for any tips on changing the coolant in my '06 2.3L Ranger but found nada. How to best / easiest way to drain the coolant from this little rig? Is there any need to worry about bleeding any captured air in the system once I go to refill the system?
View 11 Replies2000 ford ranger, 2.5 2wd
Been having a little problem whenever it rains, the carpet on the passenger side gets soaked through and I'm not really sure where the leak is coming from. the only part of the floor that gets wet is the flat part where the passenger would put their feet, but the parts that slope up towards the dash and towards the middle of the cab stay dry. I've pulled up this part of the carpet, and the rubber grommets are intact and in good shape, and there is no rust or anything on the floorboard. from searching here it seems people have had similar problems, one thing being a leak into the seals around the third brake light above the rear window.
a couple things i should mention is that the air conditioning condenser has been broken for about two years, so could water get blocked up and leak in? since its winter here in PA i haven't used the air con since last summer though. I'm not really sure how long the leak has been happening since I've always kept a floor mat over that spot, and the carpet drys in a few days anyway.
Another thing i should mention is that the weather stripping at the bottom of the window on the drivers side door is not perfectly tight and tends to come out of place when the door is closed hard. this has been happening since i got the truck almost three years ago and a new piece was just put in a month ago (the leak had been occurring before the new piece was installed) when the truck was hit and went in for body work. possibly a drain routing to passenger floor? I should add that I'm sure it's not coolant, it has no odor and feels like water.
Might be a good idea to pull up the whole carpet on passenger's side and sit in the cab during the next storm...
I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
View 14 RepliesSo I noticed when I check the oil, there is a very small amount of water at the end of the dipstick and also water mixing with oil around the oil cap. It is not much water at all, but my first thought was head gasket. I was loosing very small amounts of coolant, but found a small leak at the thermostat housing....The truck runs fine, idles fine, no bubbles coming from the radiator at startup, no moisture from exhaust. It seems to be using more oil than normal, but I drive it 100 miles a day still and no major issues other than the perplexing bit of water and oil mixing. Could it be a tiny head gasket leak? What else would cause the water and oil to come together.
View 13 RepliesSince changing to ELC a couple years ago, my truck will leak a small amount of coolant when I stay over night at the beach house. I haven't noticed any coolant leaks at any other times. I was down there Saturday night and it leaked about two or three tablespoons of coolant over night. I drove home Sunday, and my truck has been parked in the same place for almost 72 hours without a leak. This has happened a couple dozen times over the last two years. The elevation of the driveway at the beach house is 6' above sea level. "Home" (around Houston) is anywhere from 35' to 80' above sea level. Is there any way that the lower elevation is causing this leak? I'm pretty sure it's coming from the thermostat housing, but because I replaced the upper hose, I can't tell if the dried ELC around the housing is new or old.
View 12 RepliesI removed what I could, plastic cover and thermostat housing. Looks like I have to pull the intake to get the little bugger out of there. What's the procedure to remove and replace?
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 4.0L V6 Ranger, 4x4 overheated *slightly* this past weekend. I added some water and limped it home with a couple stops, trying not to let it get too hot. I since noticed there is oil in the coolant, so jumped to the first non mechanic's assumption the head gasket was bad. I have had (auto) tranny troubles with this truck in the past and started looking inside today and noticed some red fluid under the truck. I think the tranny fluid cools through the main radiator on this one, yes? If so, do I likely have a bad radiator, or is there another likely possibility?
The only wet areas I can find look like where the hard lines come into the right side (looking from the front) back of the rad. If we can determine that, would I need to replace the radiator, or is there any way to plug the tranny lines and run through a separate cooler? I think this also has a tranny, or oil cooler in front of the main radiator but not sure if that is correct, or what exactly that is. This is my daily driver work truck and will bring work to a stop until I can figure it out.
Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
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