I have a 99 ranger with a 2.5L that keeps throwing the p1401 code. I have replaces the DPFE sensor 3 times (finally with the motorcraft one), the egr valve, the egr tube, EVR solenoid, DPFE Hoses, Ignition Coils and Gas Cap. I have scoured the internet trying to find an answer but it seems like people just continuously throw parts at it until the code goes away. What could cause the issue?
View 2 RepliesI just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 RepliesBought my daughter a 325Ci about three years ago and have replaced the power steering pump 3 times so far. That's four pumps including original which went out two years ago with about 60k miles. Car has 95k miles now and changing pumps faster than tires. Dealership said original had known defect and would be replaced with newer improved model. I fail to see the improvement...
View 8 RepliesI had to replace the tie rods in my mazda b2300 and the mechanic also replaced the brake pads.
Now when I drive, I can hear the pump for the brake fluid going on and off when I'm not even using the brakes and the ABS goes on a lot too.
He tried resetting the computer by unplugging the battery for a bit but it's still doing it.
Bought this truck at auction a few days ago. Started drive home and noticed temp gauge almost pegged full hot. Stopped and left it and pickup up later that day with trailer. Got home and started and ran it. Will not overheat at idle. Gauge fluctuates between full cold and 1/2 at idle. Rev up and temp drops to full cold. Drive around town under 35 and it stays between 1/2 and 3/4. Get on the highway and Pegs full hot. Replace thermostat and flushed system. Lots of rusty water and chunks of rust/mud poured out.
Upper rad hose is firm and hot. Lower rad hose is warm soft. Bypassed heater core and still over heats. I can run water hose from top hole on radiator and water crosses threw radiator and pours out the bottom so I don't think it's clogged. It's not the head gasket, I have no smoke, no milky oil and no oil in coolant. Fan clutch seems fine, I can spin it with the engine off and feel resistance. Truck hasnt boiled over while running hot so the gauge may be wrong. If it means anything the truck runs very rough and pulled up a misfire on cylinder #1 and had a iac code.
I have to fix the truck. Battery is pretty new, replaced solenoid next to battery this morning. Truck still won't start, just clicking away. Decided I needed to replace the starter, put the truck on jacks and went to the starter. At the starter solenoid there is a red cable attached, and a "loose" red wire, with a connector on the end. It would appear the connector just needs to be reconnected to the solenoid. But it won't "connect". Am I missing something? Should it not connect to the prong on the solenoid? Should I just replace the starter, and forget about the wire? I do have Chiltons for our truck, but it doesn't show a picture of the prong on the starter solenoid.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger 2.3l with 327k miles on it. I recently replaced the belt and now it doesnt want to start. The belt is on correctly and tensioner is tight. The battery is fully charged its just not firing up and starting. All connections are good, the ac and power steering pulleys are relatively new. Now i have been stuck tryin to fix it for a week...
View 8 RepliesI replaced the clutch, slave, flywheel and pilot bearing. Now it sounds like gravel bouncing around under the truck.
Everything works beautifully, but there is horrible noise especially at idle. If push the clutch it will quiet a little. If I change the rpm it will get worse then quiet out then get loud again, there is a sweet spot.
What the heck did I do wrong. It's a horrible gravelly grinding sound.
Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 ford ranger XL and I get no high beams. My low beams work fine but when I try to either activate the high beams or pull for the flash to pass they do not illuminate and the indicator on the dash doesn't come up either. I have replaced the fuse with a fresh one, even though it didn't need to be replaced, and also replaced the headlights as well cause one was burnt out.
View 1 RepliesThe other day I was driving down the road on a long, flat section and all of a sudden my truck started missing out of the blue. Ever since it started missing it hasn't stopped. The truck is an '89 Ranger, 2.3l, 5 spd. The plugs and wires were replaced last year along with the timing belt and fuel pump. It has been running great since then until now. I thought maybe it might be a clogged fuel filter so I replaced that but it didn't work. Also, it doesn't miss all the time. It doesn't miss when its idling or if you are going down the road while it is missing and slowly release the gas pedal it reaches a point while you are letting the pedal up where it will even out. It definitely seems like it is an "under load missing" scenario. Also, the Check Engine Light is not on. Where should I start looking?
View 4 RepliesRanger wont fire! fuel pumps not pumping..... Jumped fuel pump relay and got both pumps working, but while jumping relay and cranking motor, still no fire. Plenty of fuel pressure though. got spark too. Replaced relay and no pumps working while key is turned to run or while cranking. I got to get this sweet puppy back on the tarmac...
View 7 RepliesMy Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
Three times I've had a blown out tire on my '02 F350 crew cab/long bed 4x4 V10 while driving long distances on the freeway. Twice drivers rear, once drivers front.
All 3 times were in warm weather (85-95F). First time (rear) was on the Yokahama's which were on the truck when I bought it and a bit oversized. The date code says they were 10 years old, so I replaced all the tires with OEM sized BFG Rugged Terrains. Then it happened again- front last October. Did about $4K worth of damage. Now my buddy, called me up saying it happened to him (rear) while he was borrowing my truck for a trip.
In the first first two cases, I noticed a wobble. The second time wasn't as bad and stopped when slowed down (75 to 65mph), but it still blew. I specifically mentioned this to my friend to be on the look out and he said it never wobbled, but prior to it blowing the truck started to pull to the left.
In all three cases, the truck wasn't towing anything, but had stuff in the bed. The first two times I was taking my race motorcycle to the track, so probably had about 800lbs worth of gear in the bed & cab. My buddy was probably carrying less weight, but I'm not exactly sure how much. Before my buddy borrowed the truck I set the tires to 70PSI since he was going to drive 400mi down to Barstow and then some light offroading on BLM land.
The alignment was done after October and it has four new shocks. Tires look great, have maybe 15K miles and I rotate them every 5K miles. The only mods to the truck are swapping the 4" F350 rear axle blocks with the 2" F250 to lower the bed.
So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
View 8 RepliesI went to transmission shop today and tech told me c solenoid was showing performance problem when scanned. He took it for drive and said it was commanding shift into fifth gear. It is a 3.0 extended cab 2wd with just over 200000 on truck, transmission was rebuilt just over 25000 miles ago. Fluid is so clean its still clear looking just faint red color. All other gears shift and pull great all electrical clean and hooked up, he crawled under it and said pan adjustments were tight, whatever that means.
View 14 RepliesMy 99 ranger has a strange issue its got a miss when the A/C is on, when going down the road I can feel the engine sorta pulse for a second, gets better the more I drive it, its got all new plugs and wires, not sure where else to look?
View 1 RepliesJust purchased a 1999 4.0L 4WD, when I select 4WD Hi or LO sometimes it will go, sometimes it won't. Now the 4WD Hi and LO lights are flashing intermittently while I'm driving. At one point the Hi light burned and wouldn't turn off.
View 14 RepliesOkay here's the story I bought a 99 Ford Ranger with a bad 4.0 engine. I had a newer 2002 4.0 and tranny out of another Ford Ranger thought it be an easy swap put the newer engine in and it will only run on the original Older ecm (but ruff) and the older ECM is screwing with the transmission (no reverse) unplug connections at tranny and i have reverse. So I buy a ECM from a junkyard for the 2002 and drop it off at the dealership to have the Pats programmed. and the dealership says they can't program it to make it run. They say the Pats are different from 99 to 2002. So I go another route I buy an SCT performance chip and have them disable the Pats. still won't run.
View 14 RepliesMy aforementioned ranger does not seem to heat up. Unless it is 95 degrees in the shade.... I have movement in the dash meter. Some - it will come off of the bottom - to not quite the c - then immediately dive back to less than cold ( which I realize is not possible) - engine seems to run fine. Use 93 octane or it knocks like a diesel. 135 K - I changed the thermostat. Less movement on gauge now than Before. Coolant level is fine. I read something in another post about the blend door. But my engine temperature doesn't even seem to be getting warm so how would the blend door be effecting that? I am an electrician not a mechanic, however I do all my own mechanic in in self defense. Since I cannot afford mechanics.
View 9 Replies