1999 ranger 3.0, 5 speed stick. I was backing out of my driveway but there was a car coming so i pushed in the clutch and waited for the car to pass, when I let clutch pedal up off floor i heard a grinding noise, a little while latter did the same thing in first. Is this a first and reverse gear scyronizer or something else. What causes this and how to fix it ?
View 10 RepliesJust picked up a 2003 Ranger XL 2.3L and notice that I get a little grinding every now and then when shifting into 1st gear. The clutch was replaced 3 years ago according to the PO but had no clue as to how long it's been since the clutch was bled.
I've used my Motive pressure bleeder numerous times in the past on brakes with much success but I've never used it on the clutch. I've used vacuum bleeders as well but it's always a 50/50 success rate with that. The pressure bleeder just works much better for me.
Using a pressure bleeder on a clutch and if so any tips like still needing to tip the master cylinder end up to release any potentially trapped air bubbles?
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
My buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 Replies1999 Ranger xlt, 4 cyl. 2wd reg cab, automatic. Getting a rumbling noise with some vibration in the floor ( nothing in the steering wheel, does not seem to affect handling ) runs consistently and relative to speed of vehicle......can not isolate or determine origin of noise.........
When initially driving car after sitting for awhile, the noise does not kick in until 50 to 100 yards have been traveled but is consistent thereafter,.....except for.. completely disappears during taking of left handed curves at good speed but reappears when road straightens...... right-hand turns have no affect positive or negative.
Have thrown into neutral at speed and sound and vibration is unaffected,.... brand new tires ( needed them ) with balancing had no affect either Struts, shocks, springs?
Installed a new clutch and slave today. Kept the same master cylinder.
The problem I am having is that the clutch pedal will not go to the floor, and therefore the truck won't start. The slave is moving back and forth roughly 3/8 inch, maybe more. I am pretty confident that there is no air in the system.
If I loosen the pressure plate a little, the clutch will go to the floor. But tighten it back up, and it again only goes down about 75%. This is a late '95 so it has the self adjusting clutch. I did get the correct kit for it, as well as slave. It's like the self adjusting part is too far adjusted and won't let my slave travel as far as needed.
In troubleshooting, I did notice that I failed to get the dowels in the flywheel aligned in the pressure plate. I am old school and not used to dowels in the flywheel! The dowels are not hitting anything and are not preventing the pressure plate from seating on the flywheel. But it is something I'm going to fix if I have to pull the trans again.
For reference, I replaced the clutch because the slave cylinder was hanging up and preventing the clutch from getting fully released. Aka clutch slipping.
I have a 89 Ranger, 2.3, 2wd, Mazda 5 spd. Last year, 10,000 miles ago, I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl, and pilot bearing. Today, it started making a terrible grinding sound/vibration when you let off the gas. The noise is coming from the clutch/transmission area. It is so bad that any amount of "engine braking" sounds terrible and I have to press the clutch in and the noise immediately stops. What to check for?
The only thing I can think of off the cuff is
1) bad pilot bearing,
2) low/no tranny oil. I replaced the oil and put silicone on the known leaky spots while I had the tranny out,
3) Input shaft had some "wobble" in it when I had the tranny out to replace clutch 10,000 miles ago.
This could be it but why would it start 10k miles later?
Bought a 02 Ranger, 4.0 4x4 super cab 122,000 miles. etc Picked it up for 500 bucks because someone scrapped it along the side of a guardrail this last winter. Replaced rack and Pinion (cracked), Tie rods, Shocks, driver side knuckle and wheel bearing, and some body issues (bed is still shot so if any black short bed sitting around let me know). I've been kind of putting around all day in it, letting it used to working again. Starts right up, turns easily, I string aligned it so it goes where I want.
But as I get up to speed start at about 10MPG there is a vibration based noise coming from the front, can't pin down if its left or right. If Im going straight then turn it gets slightly more intense as I even start turning the steering wheel. The noise increases with vehicle speed. And I don't know if its separate or related, but any turn over 5-10* to the left results in a grinding sound but then I turn to about 10-15 and it gets less intense. No noise turning right.
I'm thinking a bad CV, TWO bad CVs, or a bad differential. Before I start ripping into those things, thought I'd get opinions, or hopefully experience in this area. I'm really hoping its something small and stupid. (like not getting a professional alignment)
When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
I have a 1994 ford ranger 4 cylinder manuel transmission regular cab. I am hearing a grinding noise when I push and hold my clutch down. It doesn't make any noise when my foot is off the clutch. It makes the noise off and on when i stop at a light or stop signs. I have also noticed a vibration at certain speeds around 30 and then again around 70. What is the cause of these noises? Could it be my U joint?
View 5 RepliesI recently acquired a B4000(for a steal!), had it almost a month now and im starting to notice a few problems, all driveline related (I think).
1. Have a "grinding/rubbing" noise in a LEFT turn only. It is a 4x4 and I haven't turned a bolt on it yet, save for very minor stuff. Since this particular model has some costly parts, I'm trying to prevent buying unnecessary parts! I have a set of 31 x 10.50 on it, and even though there is some minor tire rub, im 90% certain this is not the case.
2. Has a somewhat "hard" shift when going into O/D(I think), doesn't do this all the time, I wonder if problem #2 and #3 are related.
3. Appears to be about 1in slack in the rear driveline, wondering if it is the rearend, and specifically the spider gears or pinion?
4. Also seems to be just a LITTLE slack in the front left CV axel, is this something I should be worried about? the front right is good and tight, Tcase shifts like its suppose to.
A friend has a 2010 ranger with the 2.3L with the manual transmission. He said that when he drives and the rpms are up he said he gets a grinding noise it doesn't matter what gear 1rst or 5th. He think throw out bearing but no noises at all until the rpms are up there. I was think internal like shift fork but don't know.
View 4 RepliesMy clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
When I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford ranger and I believe my Clutch safety starting switch is going out. Some times I push my clutch in and truck starts fine other times it will not turn over so I stomp clutch and then it starts. My question is, is there any way to bypass this switch?
View 5 RepliesI've been driving manual 12 years, all my driving life, and been in 10+ manual vehicles during that time, including a 10+ year stint in a 1.8T Passat with a 5-speed.
In all that time, and all those experiences, I've never replaced a clutch, damaged a clutch, or had one problem. In fact, I consider myself a very good operator of the manual transmission.
This is preface to my current situation. 2009 Tiguan (early build) 2.0T 6M, driving at 57mph in 6th gear - downshift to 4th to pass a truck and WHAM. Grinding, confusion, and then the clutch pedal stuck straight to the floor. Glide to a stop on the side of the bayou road.
Totally immobile vehicle. Impossible to shift into gear, or get the pedal off the floor except by pulling. Smell of acrid smoke.
VW dealership says "we're doing a courtesy warranty repair" on the clutch, flywheel and bearings, as if it's my fault. Impossible. This is a mechanical defect if I ever saw one.
I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission.
I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced.
I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.
Ok I got the brake pull fixed (I think) on my 92 Ranger 4x2 4.0 extended cab. I still will have to change the driver's side brake hose for prevention and the driver's side caliper just so everything will be new. But it stops straight now with a new brake job, pass caliper and hose on. However, this other problem has been ongoing and it does it on my 1998 Ranger too. It's not the heater core.
I think the evaporator case is filling with water and dripping down under the carpet. So the drain tube must be stopped or the case must have a bunch of leaves stopping it up. But where is this tube you're suppose to check? I don't see a conventional drain tube I only see a blower motor vent tube that doesn't drain to the outside of the car anywhere. I know my 73 Charger has a rubber drain tube that comes out of the evaporator case and drains onto the ground. But where is this one on a Ranger or what else could it be? It's only the passenger side so it's got to be that.
When we have a heavy rain water leaks in on both sides saturating the floor board.
View 2 RepliesI haven't ever been able to figure out why the middle of my passenger floor board gets wet when it rains or I go through a carwash. It's definitely not a heater core leaking. I don't see or feel any moisture under the seats further back or further up near the cowl, or roof. It's exactly in the middle of the passenger floor. Is there a plug under there? I've yet to pull back the carpet to look. I plan on eventually replacing the carpet but I want to figure out what the water is. It gets a musty smell because of the water. It's not a lot of water, not a puddle, just you can lift up the floor mat and see the moisture on it. So it's under the carpet. Windshield was replaced 3 or 4 years ago.
View 6 Replies