Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Engine Shake And Flashing CEL At 55 Plus MPH - Code P0303 Pending
Jan 29, 2016
1999 ranger 2.5. 135k!So I started with a tune up all motorcraft, fuel filter and air filter. Did nothing! So I did compression check all cyc 150psi and above. So I did leakdown, had air leak at dip stick and valve cover, So I asumed head gasket. Pulled head and found 3 head bolts on passenger side had carbon deposit bluid up really bad, So replaced head gasket all surfaces clean and flat. Still didn't fix it!! My symptoms are better than before hd but still have a engine shake and flashing cel at 55 plus mph and p0303 pending! Coils tested good but going change them any way tonight!I'm stuck on this one checked everything 3 times and then again...
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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Today my Check Engine Light came on for the first time in years on my 1998 Ford Ranger. It has 363,000 miles on it. But the engine was changed about 150,000 miles ago. It's a 2.5 automatic. It runs good and has no problems until today. I was leaving a shop and when I started up the truck the Check Engine Light came on. It wasn't idling bad but when I went to take off it wouldn't hardly move. I wasn't even able to keep driving. So I stopped and turned it off and restarted it. Then the Check Engine Light was gone and it ran fine. I scanned it when I got home and it a Pending code of P0446.
I've never gotten this one before. It said something was wrong with the fuel vapor vent solenoid open or shorted. I've never replaced anything on the evaporative emission system except a hose under the hood 3 or 4 years ago. I've had to change the fuel pump a couple times. I've never had any wiring issues. I've never hacked into the wiring. I've owned it since it was new. Is it likely that solenoid is failing or the vapor canister is shot? I don't need this to happen again because even if it's in what was called limp mode. there's no way I could've driven it home like that. I couldn't even pull over. I was lucky I was still in a parking lot.
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My 2002 Ford Airbag light is flashing 46. I believe this is the Drivers side crash senor. I am repairing the left front fender and left front wheel suspension. I have replaced the two air bags and airbag control module. Where is the left front crash sensor?
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I have a 1995 ford ranger 2.3 L dual coil packs new plugs, wires, coil packs, tps, idle air sensor, internal temp sensor, and a replaced mass air flow sensor from wrecker. That all said my one son missed a plug when i replaced it , it had no tip left on it , but since then i now have a misfire in cylinder 2 where the olther plug was found and replaced ...
Gap for plugs are .44
Used the wrecker maf to see if it would clear a p0113 which it did. I am stumped on why at approx. 30 minutes of driving that the cel will flash then set a p0302, no other codes no fuel smell. rechecked plugs all are clean haven't been able to check fuel pressure yet, and i out a can of seafoam in the tank to see if it clear out injectors.
Besides all, I will check injector to see if I hear anything but I'm stumped. Also we have to have an emission test so is it best to fail the test and will it show me what I'm missing.
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What this code means. What can I do to fix this problem.
1999 ford ranger xlt ext cab...
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I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
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My wife started our '99 Explorer last week and she said that the engine was rattling. I started it up when I got home and it sounded like something had let loose in the engine. We took it a local mechanic and he basically said that the motor was shot. I pulled the codes and it doesn't look good to me but I'm not a mechanic. Codes are:
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0173
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Went from right around 18 to 14-15 last 2 tanks. No codes, drives absolutely normal. I have had my 4x4 lights flashing, but the 4x4 has never worked (suspect its a combination of the transfer case motor and the pulse vacuum hubs). Used to flash like this when I would try the 4x4 switch and would take a while to "get back to where it was happy". Recently I have not messed with the switch or anything else.
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My 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
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I don't have a Ranger or B-Series, but I do have Ford's older B-Series counterpart. 1979 Ford Courier, 2.3L/5-spd. I have had a bad rear end shake since I bought the truck nearly three years ago, so I'm sure it existed well before then. It only happens around 60-65 mph, and there is also a kind of buzzing/humming sound whenever I'm coasting to a stop in neutral. I have:
Replaced and balanced the tires several times
Rotated the tires several times
Replaced all four wheel bearings
Replaced steering linkage
Replaced front suspension
Balanced driveshaft twice
Replaced driveshaft center bearing
Replaced all three U-joints
Checked rear wheel lateral and radial runout
Had the front end aligned three or four times
Checked engine and trans. mounts
And yet the issue persists. I am stumped and this problem is driving me bonkers!
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I have a 98 Explorer upon startup is horrendously shakes. What went to hell in the transmission?
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I have a 2003 Ranger 4x4 with the 5speed automatic. It has 215,000 miles on it and I don't drive it regularly anymore. Lately, I've noticed that it will shake after start up for 10-30 seconds. This only happens after it has sit for a few days or a week. After it warms up, I can drive it and stop and start it again and it has works as usual.
Is there some way the convertor is leaking out fluid and it shakes until the convertor is full again? Or is something else the problem. I've changed the fluid two or three times during the life of the vehicle.
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So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
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Alright I have a 01 F250 with the 7.3L in it. Recently had the turbo rebuilt and all the surrounding gaskets changed as well as boots. All this was done around 1,000 miles ago. Runs great and I don't see/feel any issues, no white smoke anytime, little black when I turn up the tuner and really ride the thing but normal driving none. Problem is I have a pending P1247 code that after a few days will throw a CEL... I'm not sure what the problem is and have been searching the forum and people are mostly saying they get it but the boost drops or there isn't any at all and the truck my stall or bog down. I don't have any of those problems. Turbo spools up to whatever I want and I've never had it stall or bog or even get close... So what should I check? Also new to the site and diesels.
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My son has a 99 Ranger where the airbag light is flashing code 32. I had the same code on my F350 and it was the clock spring. What it could be. It is 99 Ranger with 2.5l, auto trans, 2wd, no CC.
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99 2.5L. P0455. I'll just be driving and the CEL will come on and stay on. I pull the code and get a P0455. Gas cap is brand new and I can wipe the code and it will come back a few days later.
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger and my Check Engine Light came on a while back. So I eventually bought a scan tool and I'm only getting one code which is P1443. I've looked at both my Chilton and Haynes Manuals, my Ranger manual itself which is pretty useless for this problem, and I've been searching the internet like crazy.
From the threads I have read here it doesn't seem like a hard problem to fix yourself, and it seems like if you take it in anywhere they will charge you an arm and a leg to work on the EVAP system but it's an affordable do it yourself project.
I just don't know where to begin though, I see people talking about buying the complete set with hoses and the canister and sensor all together but I can't find all these parts. Where do I begin to repair the EVAP system?
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I have a 2002 F250 SD V10 4x4, that just started to randomly misfire [does not matter if the vehicle is in motion or in park]. I scanned the OBDII and found pending code P0720 (Output Speed Sensor). The CEL, O/D light, nor the ABS light illuminate. The speedometer functions normally.
This occurred Saturday after we got 12-18" of snow. I cleaned out the driveway, took a short drive (~ miles) & parked the truck (no symptoms). Later we went to 2 stores and then on the way home, the misfire started. The next day the misfire continues.
I have been searching & come up with the same posts that say the issue is not the OSS. It's usually a bad COP or bad wiring @ the OSS. The symptoms are not the same as when I had a COP go bad (only misfired under load between 1500 & 2500 rpm).
Personal issues: My truck does not fit in my garage, it's dark (and usually below 30 F) before I can get to look at it in the evening. Also, we are supposed to get another foot of snow tomorrow night.
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I just purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 It has really high miles on it as it was a landscaping companies fleet truck. I'm sure that it was pretty well serviced as it has 300K miles on it and it's still running pretty decent.
I picked up the truck and I have to get the smog done soon. It idles with what I can only describe as a slight miss and it runs and drives great. seems to have plenty of power for the miles that's on it.
There is no active CEL on but I scanned the OBDII system and found a P0171 Lean bank 1 code in the pending codes list of the scanner. I guess this year engine doesn't have an EGR Valve or DPFE sensor because I've looked high and low for it and there non existent on this engine.
I've checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner or carb cleaner all over the place and it makes no difference and all the vacuum lines and connections look okay.
When it's running It does sound like a vacuum leak right behind the top of the plastic throttle body but I can't find it, I don't know if this big *** engine just sucks that much air or what.
Like I said I need to smog this thing soon and I don't want it to fail if it's missing or has another issue. The fuel injectors look new and one coil pack looks like it's a replacement...
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