Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Electrical Malfunction - Burning Smell - Hard Downshifting - Power Window Quit Working?
Aug 26, 2013
I'm having some issues with my 99 ranger. It all started on my way to work one afternoon. Going down the road I started to smell some type of electrical burning smell. I looked at my instrument cluster and seen a trail of smoke come up between the steering wheel and ins cluster from under and gear selector covers. After that the O/D off light started flashing and downshifting hard. My pwr windows and dome light also quit working. Checked fuse #26 and all my fuses before going into work that afternoon, all of them were good and none blown. After shift was over that night going home I needed to use the wipers and they wouldn't work either. Also noticed then that my speedo, odometer and trip odometer not working. I've pulled my dash and steering covers off trying to find or see anything but nothing yet.
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I have a 99 Super Cab 4x4, 4.0, XLT. The radio has terrible static and the back lighting of the climate control goes off and comes on at different intervals. Are the two issues related?
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I have a 2001 Pathfinder w/ ~190K mile on it. It has been used regularly until this past winter. It has been sitting for about 3.5 months and I'm just now getting it back on the road. The battery has been draining due to non-use but I charge it and the car will start. Today I started it and after running for about 2 minutes the engine quit. When I got in the car I noticed the strong smell of electrical burning but no smoke. I did not notice this outside of the car. Upon trying to restart the car the engine just cranks with no sign of trying to start (as if there's no spark). I suspect something (probably electrical) has failed while it was idling but what it could be.
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What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
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My son has a 99 ranger and the 4 wheel drive quit working. Traced it to the front hubs not getting vacuum. If I jump around the vacuum solenoid(not sure if that's what it's called), the 4 wheel drive works. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows how this is supposed to work electrically?
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My sons 97 has a lot of electric probs, one of which is the cig lighter quit working recently. I checked the fuses (under hood and on dash), and wiring to both plug-ins.
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In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
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My father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
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I own a 1990 Ford Ranger, 2.3 EFI with an 8 Plug setup and 2WD. It uses a dual-coil system an not a distributor if that means anything here.
Okay, so for the last week I have been experiencing extremely high oil pressures. My gauge would read almost as high as the "H" mark. The smell of burning oil was heavy in the cab from the vents. I took it easy, made sure my oil level was good and I had enough oil, the truck drove rough, but drove decent.
Yesterday, I got done sliding in some mud (not crazy bouncing or anything, just sliding). I stopped at a stop sign, turned around and hit the gas, and the truck died. I thought there were other issues not related to oil, however I noticed that the oil gauge now read about an inch left of the "L"ow mark. If I turned the key, to the "ON" position, the gauge pushed the needle to above the left gauge itself pointing towards about the "8 oclock" area.
Now, my truck will not start. It cranks and cranks and cranks with no start. I called a bunch of mechanics and none of them knew what I should do. AutoZone did not know what do, no one did. Some people said that the oil pump itself had gone out and that would cause the truck not to start and would cause gauge issue. Others said that it might be as small as the Oil Pressure Switch. Firstly, I bought a new Pressure Switch. Have not installed it because I cannot find the damn thing.
Where the switch OFFICIALLY is. I have read on Google that it is on the passenger side, at the rear end of the cylinder head. Other posts say it is by the oil filter...
PICTURES:
Without the key in the ignition:
With the key in the ignition, in the "ON" position:
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I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
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The interior lights, radio, and power window gauges and the ignition buzzer on my 2002 F350 quit working. What could cause this? Everything else still works.
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My odometer has quit working but sometimes will run a few miles. The truck has about 100,000 miles on it and the speedometer works fine.
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This morning the passenger side wiper on my 89 Ranger stopped working. I heard a clunk noise and it stopped but driver side still works. What should I check first? I'm guessing a shaft came off but don't know where it is located.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I have a 1997 Mazda b4000 new plugs wires head gasket an I cleaned out the radiator. My question is the truck runs good but my heat quit workin what could it be all fuse look good. Also there is water coming out of my tailpipe with white smoke. Should I be concerned.
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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Got a 2005 F350 with 250,000 miles with "electrical" problems. First thing I did was change batteries, clean body grounds and check most fitting and connections. Looked good at KOEO. Tried to crank and it struggled and fired for about 2 seconds. The IPR % was going nuts. Took off FICM found one bent pin that I don't know what it controls. It is where the screwdriver tip is.
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I have a 1999 f250 crew cab. About 6 months ago my drivers side window quit working in the up position(lucky me) and last week I got around to fixing it . I just ordered a new window motor instead of the whole regulator and installed it and it worked perfect for 4 days and today it suddenly quit again. What would cause a window motor to go out again so quick? Everything else seems to be fine and there is power to it so I'm assuming it's the motor.
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So I had been smelling an electrical/rubber burning smell on the Ex about a month ago. After a week or so I popped the hood and poked around. This is what I found!
Now I had a no start in May. The shop that I had it towed to checked the wiring harness, replaced the cam sensor, scratched the truck up and ran through 2 tanks of fuel.
I repaired the harness and all is good. What the 3 wires run/go to.
One was solid Gray with a white stripe.
One was solid Black with a yellow stripe.
One was Tan with a green strip.
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT with a power window issue. My passenger window doesn't go up but it will go down. My headlights don't dim when I press the up/down window passenger buttons on the driver side as well as up on the passenger side. The window will go up randomly as if nothing is wrong but I don't know what the issue is. I've checked the power distribution box and fuse box but didn't find any issues. All I can tell is that it's an electrical issue.
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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