My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1990 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4 with the Mazda M5OD transmission. I took a peek under the truck the other night and I noticed that my slave cylinder is taking a little leak on me. I was wondering how to go about changing the slave. I could either pull the engine. Or pull the transmission and transfer case.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 Ranger 3.0L automatic, ext cab, 2 wheel drive. Door sticker show code "T" which I looked up as the 4R44E. The trans seems to be slipping in 1st and 2nd. Thought it was "reared shudder", from a "limited slip" differential but mine is not limited slip. just the regular 8.8 with 373 gears.
Wanting to know what if any options I have for buying a new / rebuilt tranny? I've seen where depending upon the year and motor, Ranger can have 4r44e, 4r55e, 5r55e, etc.
When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
View 8 Replies1999 ranger 3.0, 5 speed stick. I was backing out of my driveway but there was a car coming so i pushed in the clutch and waited for the car to pass, when I let clutch pedal up off floor i heard a grinding noise, a little while latter did the same thing in first. Is this a first and reverse gear scyronizer or something else. What causes this and how to fix it ?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 ford ranger and I believe my Clutch safety starting switch is going out. Some times I push my clutch in and truck starts fine other times it will not turn over so I stomp clutch and then it starts. My question is, is there any way to bypass this switch?
View 5 RepliesI own a 2010 GTI stage 2+ with 430hp, I just had a clutch replacement from
dodson motorsport that can handle more power up to 700hp, before the replacement I had serious slipping, when I was pushing the car from 4k rpm, the "DSG OVERHEATING" blink on the dashboard, now after the replacement and the dsg software I still have slippage, do you think it comes from mechatronic? The tuners said that might be the mechatronic due to the fact that the two valves of pressure does not send too much oil to the clutches and creates slippage. Should I change only the two valves or the mechatronic complete.
This was the stock "burned" clutch
And this is the new DODSON MOTORSPORT CLUTCH PACK FOR 700whp
I'm having trouble with my auto tranny again. it is a 4r44e and is in a 1999 3.0 flex 2wd extended cab. It will not pull in reverse, seems to be slipping bad, and it won't pull in forward gears unless you switch OD off. Then it seems to pull fine but still not in reverse. I haven't drove it very much to see on changing gears and such for fear of burning it up.
Fluid is still like new no codes showing just started out of the blue while my son was driving. All electrical is hooked up tight and no leaks fluid is little overfull but not much. I am going outside now to adjust intermediate band to spec. had trouble with overdrive that had everybody stumped if you remember and it was overdrive band adjustment so going that route first.
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with 95k miles on it. Recently, my truck's automatic transmission has been slipping really bad. I'll be driving down my road and while going around a turn, the clutch feels like it randomly disengages, so when I press on the gas, it feels like I'm revving my truck in neutral, and then it will all of a sudden get back into gear, violently a lot of the time. However, once the truck is warmed up, the it runs perfectly and never slips. I've checked my oil multiple times and even changed the oil filter in the transmission. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but if I let my truck idle in park for a little bit, the RPMs will increase and if I shift in to reverse or drive while the RPMs are high, it'll do the same thing.
View 14 Replies1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 Replies2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
View 1 RepliesI think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
View 3 Replies1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
I've had my truck a few years now but for 2 it was basically parked. When I started trying to use it again I am having issues with the clutch now. When it is cold everything is fine, but on hot days or after I have been driving for a while It will lock the pedal up and will not let me dis-engage the clutch at all. Sometimes when it does eventually let the pedal down it will go to the floor and stay there for a few seconds until it slaps back up and engages slamming the truck into gear.
I have yet to try much. I'm not good at working on anything other than stereos in cars but I am willing to try. My thought is some water got into the system and is boiling in the lines but I am not sure. Places to start? I really need my truck going and the couple places I've taken it dont even want to try it seems like.
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
Will a clutch/flywheel and 5 spd from a 1997 ranger bolt up to an older 1980ish engine that had a 4 spd? What about the starter?
View 1 RepliesMy buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 Replies