Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - CEL / OD And ABS Light On - Won't Shift Out Of Low?
Nov 2, 2003
Yesterday my 1999 Ranger 2.5L Automatic got really wierd! The check engine light came on, the overdrive light started flashing, the ABS light came on, and the transmission can't shift out of low, except manually...and to top it off the speedometer quit working! What the heck is going on???? This has got to be all connected somehow.
Up until now, I have had no problems. The truck has about 45K miles. I change the oil at 3-4,000 miles and try to take care of this as my teenage daughter drives this truck to school.
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When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
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I have a 99 Ranger, 3.0 xlt 2WD Automatic 5r55e(???) tranny (i know its the 5). I have the o/d off light flashing. It comes on when fluid gets to op temp. When on it shifts hard into 2nd and hard when it downshifts. No slipping. I have had the truck in the tranny shop for 3 weeks, owner said he re built valve body gasket (didnt work) tried 3 diff used tranny's (didn't work) or so he says. He said it needs to be rebuilt.
I have searched up and down for what it could be, there is so much out there, it only confused me more. If i have to rebuild i will, i think the tranny shop was pulling my leg (for more reasons than mentioned). I have a check engine light on nothing to do with tranny...there is a tranny code, he would not tell me but i will have it checked. Been told could be throttle position sensorl, speed sensor cracked case and a million other things. I have some mechanical abilities, (not too much w/ tranny's) but i can change a few simple sensors.
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i have a 1999 mazda troy lee b3000. The truck has a 3.0 flex fuel and 4r44e and when you go to drive it. turn the key engine fires up but the trans won't shift into gear. Here is the back story.Bought the truck brand new in 99 I'm the original owner it was a daily driver up until 2 years ago. the truck has over 300k miles and still ran great but the camshaft was starting to go. I was gona replace the cam but came across a killer deal on a new engine. picked up another 3.0 flex fuel with 50k miles. drove the truck into my garage removed the old engine installed the new engine. got in the truck turned the key and the new engine roared to life.
I went to put the truck into gear so i could get it out of the garage and go for a test drive and nothing. went to put it in drive and again nothing. no matter what gear its put in it doesn't move at this point i was confused and decided to quit for the night. That was in 2011 its now 2013 the truck has just sat there sense then. I've tried anything and everything even went as far as swapping transmissions and computers with no luck. I took the trans apart I don't know how many times can't find anything wrong with it.
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Sold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic 5r55e and it had problems shifting smoothly into third gear. I changes the valve body gaskets and the (rooster comb) detent lever. Now it shifts very hard and has on first second and passing gear.
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My son has a 99 Ranger where the airbag light is flashing code 32. I had the same code on my F350 and it was the clock spring. What it could be. It is 99 Ranger with 2.5l, auto trans, 2wd, no CC.
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How can I shut off the air bag light on my 1999 ranger? I was in a minor accident and I had to replace the bumper, the light came on after the accident.
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ive been experiancing an issue with my trucks shifting. it shifts smoothly but doesnt like shift into 5th, as im driving it stays in 4th longer than necessary. my thought was that it was tied to a shift sensor, what do you think?
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Like the title says, my 99 ranger has the door ajar light stuck on, which in turn is making the dome light stay on. It's kinda been acting up lately, but would go out eventually. Today I washed it and had the doors open for a while. After I shut the doors and started it the light stayed on and hasn't gone off since. I pulled the negative cable tonight. And no, the doors aren't open! FWIW I cant pull the doors any tighter closed and make the light go out..
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In the past week after work the door ajar light comes on and stays on. I've checked all doors and they are not ajar. The dome light comes on when i start the engine and goes off after a few seconds, but only when i have this door ajar problem. After I get home and shut off the engine for about 30 seconds, then restart, the dome light nor the door ajar don't come on.
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My 99 b2500 4 cly shut off on the road this morning and now will not start. She'll turn over just fine but no sputtering or almost-starting. The engine light isn't on when i try to crank it. Any deductive checklist so i can start narrowing down the problem?
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I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
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2000 ranger 3.0 auto 4wd hard to shift. Are the cables known to stretch?
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Today my 2001 ford range edge starting running funny. When in park it idles around 3k rpm and then when driving it feels like it wont shift past 2nd because it is around 4k rpm around 50mph and I'm afraid to go to any higher speed for fear of damaging the engine. I'm currently at work so im unable to really get under the hood atm.
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My 99 Ranger charges intermittently. Sometimes it is just fine, sometimes the voltmeter drops and the light comes on. Might go a mile, might go all day without an issue. Alternator was replaced 2 weeks ago. Where to look? I haven't ruled out the possibility of a bad "new" alternator, but I haven't been able to get it to act up when I actually have time to start diagnosing it. Is there a relay somewhere that could be causing this?
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I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
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What this code means. What can I do to fix this problem.
1999 ford ranger xlt ext cab...
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I bought a 2003 Ford Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed manual. It is hard to shift after it warms up. I test drove it when it was below freezing, so I didn't notice it at first. The warmer the day and quicker the truck warms up, the worse it is. It goes into gear with no problem when the engine is off or if I'm still moving, but if I'm stopped there are times it is hard to get into gear. This really sounded like a clutch that wasn't fully disengaging to me, so I decided to pull it apart. I didn't check the movement at the slave before I started, but I did find the master was a little wet at the rod in the cab.
So, I did the following:
- New clutch master cylinder (system bled out of truck to eliminate air)
- New slave cylinder and bearing
- New pilot bearing
- Changed transmission fluid - Mercon III ATF
I inspected the clutch/pressure plate and it was in good shape and looked like it might have had 10K - 20K miles on it. The last owner said it was recently replaced and it looked it. So, I put it back in. After I was done, I checked the movement at the slave/pressure plate and it is moving about 3/8" - 1/2" when the pedal is down. I was happy and thought this would solve the problem since the old pilot bearing seemed stiff and I saw the leak on the back of the master cylinder.
I drove it and all felt fine at first, but it was a cool day and I didn't drive it that long. When it was warmer over the next couple of days, it started getting hard to shift again. It's not been quite as bad as before, but still doesn't shift right.
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It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed, and once or twice a day when the light turns green and I go to put it in low gear, it just doesn't want to go into gear easy. It's like the syncro isn't happy or something. The clutch is depressed all the way and not dragging.
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I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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