I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
View 1 RepliesI've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
View 13 RepliesI am looking over a 1998 Ford Ranger. Very low miles for its age (67,000) and kept in very good shape. When I took it for a drive, I noted an issue.
- there's a whining sound in first gear and reverse that varies according to the engine RPMs. I thought it might be the power steering pump, as that whined when I turned the wheel.
However, the noise went away when I shifted to the higher gears. Been a while since I drove a stick - my Bug back in 2003, IIRC.
What I might be getting into? I really like this machine, aside from that issue, and I would like to nail the problem down ASAP...
This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 RepliesI recently acquired a 1989 Ford Ranger midsize pickup with an electronic shift button/console between the visors. I put it in 4WD and the manual does not indicate the procedure to take it out of 4WD. What is the procedure?
View 3 Replies1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
Its and 03 ranger with a 4.0 auto and it grinds after starting and it doesn't always start smoothly, like it hops around till it finally starts, kind of like the starter wont disengage. Do I start with a new starter or is more than likely a flexplate issue? I hope its just a starter.
YouTube video : 2012-02-16_15-35-45_211 - YouTube
2nd problem is it hesitates a second or so before it goes into gear and clicks in hard, kind of like when you are low on oil, but its not low on oil. It also shifts hard. When I got it the column bolts were loose so the shifter was floppy, I am wondering is someone tried to fix it the wrong way. Also now its pretty stiff to move the shifter selector.
Also what tranny is in it, it may be some sort of heavy duty unit, it was an x electrical municipality vehicle, it appears to have an 8.8 and heavy duty rear springs. Door tag reads axle rd, tr D, and spr 2c...
My Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
I noticed that one of my vacuum lines was bad on the driver's side. I've done a lot of reading on the 4WD systems and frankly I'm confused now. My understanding is that when in 2WD the solenoid is open pulling a vacuum on the actuators (IWE) which keeps them disengaged. When you switch to 4WD the shift motor on the transfer case sends power to the front wheels and the solenoid turns off the vacuum which engages the actuators sending power to the wheels. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak the actuators won't disengage properly.
Through my trouble shooting I've determined that I think the solenoid is working properly because I'm getting a vacuum when in 2WD and no vacuum in 4WD. I believe that both actuators are engaged and working properly when in 4WD. However, I must not be getting a vacuum to the driver's side actuator (hub) because the line is totally busted up and can't possibly hold a vacuum. However the passenger side line looks good to me. Does this mean that I've been driving around in "3WD"??? I don't seem to have any problems when in 2WD turning (no tire skip or hop).
So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesMy sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
View 5 RepliesI bought a 96 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 on the 21st and the gear shifter doesn't go into 1st gear but changes to the other ones(see pic below) and was wondering if it's a easy fix.
Also I have a oil drip(at least it looks like oil to me) and I can't figure out where it's coming from because it's a small drip and the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick both show full and I can't figure out where the drip is coming from and I only noticed a dip on a metallic tank but don't know what that is either but check out the pic below to see the drip I circled.
I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
I have been having with my ford ranger. I bought this off my nephew bcuz he needed some money and never drove it due to it being a 5speed and he has a kid and a wife and no room. OK the issue I am having is in gear or neutral I can't get the 2.5 motor over 3000rpms in any gear at all. If you rev the engine up or r driving it when it hits between 2900-3000 rpms the motor acts as if it is going to die and looses all power until you let off the gas. I have replaced the following items on the truck. Oh by the way I have a Cam 2 hand held and there are no codes or warning lights. All new parts :
1) new fuel pump
2) fuel filter
3)new timing belt
4)new motor craft platinum plugs
5) new motor craft plug wires
6)new Mass air flow meter
7) clutch,pressure plate & throw out bearing along with new slave(that needed it replaced others since I was there)
8) exhaust tube behind motor(rotted out)
9) new idle control sensor (acts as elect. Choke)
Truck starts up real quick and idles fine, but when truck is cold the rpms @ 2500 does the same as when it is warm @ 3000 rpms. I even took it to the local ford dealer in my town. Youngstown oh @ Fred martin ford. They told me the wires should be replaced and plugs along with mass air flow valve. I called them after replacing it and told them no difference and the service manager told me to bring it in again and they will look again. Service manager told me he has never heard of this type of problem and I went to a local garage mentioned it to the lead mechanic. He said that is why he doesn't like fords they are to common in chronic problems and can't be fix without a lot of guess work. I have a Hanes manual and did everything it recommends to no avail.
I've got 30 lbs of fuel pressure that drops to 28 if you rev it up a bit on a 1998 ranger 4.0 with a new fuel filter. Haynes manual say it should be 56-72 lbs. Bad news is fuel pressure regulator is in the tanks with the pump. Can the regulator be swapped out or is it one assembly with the fuel pump? Is there anything I should check first?
View 4 RepliesOk so my dad has been using my 98 while I was fixing his 92 4.0. I had the 92 perfect and then someone pulled in front of me and totaled it out. Well now I got my 98 back and it's all messed up. Check engine is on p0171. Fuel pressure test done and it's steady 40-42 psi. I remember last year I checked it was like 68-72 psi. It hasn't been a year or two since fuel pump and strainer were replaced. Filter probably 15,000 miles ago. It's currently running good sometimes it cuts off when you start it then next time it stays running. Is this another fuel pump failure? How much longer will it last on 40 psi? The fuel lines and tank have 336,000 miles, engine maybe 150,000 and injectors have about 20,000 miles on them.
View 4 RepliesI got this 98 Ranger 2.5 that I've done a tune-up on less than 30,000 miles ago. I changed plugs, wires, and both coil packs. Timing belt, thermostat, fuel pump, fuel injectors are all recently changed too within a year or two. Fuel filter and air filter I change every 30,000 miles. The truck runs as great as a 4 Cylinder will run. It's at 344,000 miles but the engine was changed once so it probably has over 100,000 miles on it. There is just a slight miss you can hear through the tailpipe but it's not severe enough to be picked up by the Check Engine Light. In fact, even when the coils were totally gone it never put up the Check Engine Light. I can tell when a coil pack is going out on this because it's done it several times so I usually just change them with the tune-up. It's only a slight miss some people may not even notice it. I was just wondering is there any way to track down where the miss is? I tried looking under the hood in the pitch black and there's no plug arcing.
View 1 Repliesso heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger SuperCab XLT 4WD 4.0 Auto. Occasionally, especially when it has been sitting for more than 3 days, it shakes for maybe 30 seconds on startup. It smooths out gradually after that, maybe 15 sec. to normal smoothness. It seems like it is firing on all cylinders and is more like something out of balance.
Never does it when sits less than 2 days. When it happens, the longer it sits the worse it shakes.