My '98 B3000 has an oil leak. There is some oil up high on bell housing. So a buddy and I thought it might be the oil pressure sending unit. I replaced it. And still seems to be leaking.
Maybe valve covers? I was thinking rear main until we saw it on the bell housing. Valve covers don't seem to be leaking on the outside. Do they leak worse on the inside of the V?
Burnt feedback hoses off and has no power going up hills, changed plugs and wires and did complete tune up still no power will the EGR valve cause it not to have power going up hill? No codes or check engine light on at this time.
View 10 RepliesFound a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
I have a 2000 Intrigue 3.5L 155,000 Mi ... Oil use has been about 1 QT at 3000 miles since 120,000 miles. Before that I wasn't keeping track.
The valve covers were leaking pretty bad and could be smelled burning off. I replaced them along with my P/S pump. There also was fluid in the engine valley that I believe was P/S Fluid..
I changed the oil and I was 1.5 Qt low at 2,000 miles. So it is suddenly WORSE. Even though I replaced the leaking valve covers. There is also currently not fluid in the engine valley. I park in the same place every night and do not notice a puddle. Also there is no noticeable blue smoke from the exhaust. Just a little white as it is winter.
I am looking for where else the oil could be going that it doesn't leave a puddle on the ground.
I've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
I have a Hyundai Elantra 2001 that I just bought off someone. I've had the car maybe 2 weeks, I changed the radiator because it overheated last week. Then, I found out the valve cover was cracked in four places, I replaced those too... I bought and installed a new thermostat, and I thought that would be the end of overheating... I was wrong, last night I felt like I smelled antifreeze strongly, so I parked it and this morning before heading home from work, I checked the radiator, it was empty. I filled it with antifreeze, and headed home, 20 minutes later, I parked on my drive and see that I have a huge leak... and it's antifreeze.
So, seems like I had left the cap open somehow, I didn't close it all the way. That was understandable, so I put some more coolant in it, and took off in the afternoon - 20 minutes into my drive, it starts slowly overheating, I see the gauge going up so I pull over, as soon as I do the car shuts off. I took the keys off the ignition and opened the hood. Now, there's smoke coming off the engine (smoke came from under the valve covers). I gave it 20 minutes rest at least, then added water in the radiator. Turned it on and it worked ok for about 5 minutes, I drove 2 hours to get it home at this rate, stopping every so often. Then, got it home and parked it.
I was just offered a free tonneau cover today - it's a hard cover that's "split" (it opens in sections) and came off a Ranger (it's either an '03 or an '05 - I can't remember) - the guy who's giving it to me took it off his truck when he had a camper shell put on. He claims it ran him about $900 at the time he had it put on - I think he got it from a Ford dealership...
Anyway, I'd like some input from folks who have these covers on their trucks. Trying to get some pro's and con's from people... Is weight an issue? I hear this thing is pretty heavy, but I haven't seen it yet so I haven't gauged for myself the weight. How much would it affect gas mileage? Are these things effective at all in reducing wind drag or is that another myth? How accessible is the bed with one of these covers on? I understand that the sections can be removed, if needed...
The bed rails on my truck are already pretty tore up from the aluminum bed rail caps that are on there now (it used to be a service truck) so, I'm not really concerned about that... I've also got a drop-in bed liner that, I think, was installed by whatever dealership in Montana this truck was originally purchased at... Anything else I should know about these covers?
Bought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:
1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.
I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.
First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?
Looking for an image of pvc valve location....2003 ranger 3.0......
View 2 RepliesIt's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
Where the modulater valve is on my A4LD tranny. I have a 93' ranger XLT extra cab 2wd with 4.0 engine. I have looked all over the tranny and thought it would be somewhere I could see it. I know I had one on my old full size Ford truck with C6.
View 7 Replies89 4 wheel drive 2.9 5 speed can it be cleaned or cleared.
View 4 RepliesOk not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
View 3 RepliesHaving some trouble with my 1987 2.3L ranger - 2wd - Non AC - 107k miles.
The truck feels like its running on 3 cylinders and occasionally stalls. Motor has a pretty good shake to it while idling as well.
Recently replaced injectors, rotor, cap, wire, spark plugs. Timing belt was done approx 30k miles ago.
Put seafoam into it. Problem persists - where to go from here ?
So my 92 4.0 automatic has always been kind of a slug since we've bought it with 101,000 miles on it. It's been tuned properly and fuel pump, filter, and regulator been replaced. It runs pretty good but when you're going highway speed or even like 45-50 and stomp the gas it doesn't feel as if it's downshifting. The transmission looks like it may have been replaced or maintained, it shifts good, pulls good. Fluid is clear and clean, no leaks, no burning. I see that it has a vacuum modulator valve but don't know where it hooks up to. I can barely see it behind my catalytic converter. It will have to be removed to change it for sure. But I'm trying to see where the vacuum line goes from that modulator valve. I see the valve but I didn't really notice a vacuum hose coming off of it but again my view was obstructed by the catalytic converter. Would it cause hesitation problems if it was bad or not even hooked up?
View 1 RepliesSo I just put billowed up pipes and changed the broken O ring in the turbo housing. Put everything back together and checked for a boost leak with the home made tester. Boots and everything ARE OK. I can hear air escaping from what seems to be the valve cover or intake. I realize that I am charging my crank case as well but it still concerns me that air is escaping from somewhere besides the CCV. I read the following forum and this guy had the same issue and after he found out he was charging his crank case he was no longer worried. . . . .
View 12 RepliesI just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
View 6 RepliesIs it what it looks like? Why is it there, to pressure bleed the system through it rather than using a modified MC cap?
View 5 Replies1993 ford ranger xlt. Auto trans 4.0 L ... Brake and ABS lights are on. Fluid level is good and connector on the master is tight. Just randomly came on. No difference in brakes. I jumped it and it flashed a code 4. "Open/grounded valve reset circuit". Cant seem to find much on it.
View 1 Replies2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.
It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.
It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor