Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Torquing Upper Shock Mounting Nut
Jan 28, 2013
I replaced the front shock absorbers on my Ranger today and I have a question about torquing the upper mounting nut. The problem I have is that the threaded rod that is attached to the top of the shock turns when I put a socket on there and try to torque it to the proper spec. You can put a crescent wrench on the top of that threaded rod(it has flat spots) and tighten the nut some with a wrench, but the crescent wrench wants to slip and round off the top of that threaded rod. So my question is, how do you torque that upper nut without the shock spinning below?
It's a '98 2.5 ltr., 2 wheel drive with coil springs.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I am having a real hard problem trying to find the ideal place to mount my backup camera on my 2004 Ford Ranger... Looking for some pics of your mounting location.. Closest to the center of the bumper would be best if possible...
View 13 Replies
Well, I had a friend put together my front brake rotor, now no more pulsating when coming to a stop, very smooth stop, new front brakes, had it aligned as well.. Also replaced the front shocks, however the passenger side came loose and rattles when going over bumps, speed bumps. I popped the hood, bounced my truck and could see it moving from left to right when bouncing front end of truck.
Question is, can i tighten it up myself, I dont have a jack, limited tools, I know, I know but i dont at the moment. My friend that worked on my truck lives a good drive and i hate to waste gas just for tightening something that should have been done but i have too, I will..
View 3 Replies
I saw a nice very clean 2011 ranger with 63,000 miles on it . But there looks like it has a oil leak on the upper right front of the motor. Behind the pulley that does not have any groves in it . It could be a gasket or a oil seal I don't know. Is this oil leak something common with the 2.3 engine?
View 4 Replies
So i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
View 14 Replies
It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
View 14 Replies
1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
View 6 Replies
Installing LED mounting brackets on the upper windshield area? It seems like no one has brackets for the 97-03 F150 which is surprising. I'm not really interested in the mounts that go into the roof and I'm trying to find brackets that attach along the side of the upper windshield area.
I'm looking at mounting brackets that look like this : [URL] .....
View 1 Replies
I have a 1999 XLT and i had a bad moment yesterday. I always put the toolbox in the back side of the cabin, while doing maintenance i tried to open the rear door and I couldn't. I noticed its locked from the upper because the lower looks free. The other thing i noticed the two wires going to the handle to open it feels loose. First time happened to me and i really use that door often.
View 2 Replies
Mounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
View 4 Replies
2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive truck. The upper rear shock mount bracket has rusted off.
View 2 Replies
My sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
View 5 Replies
I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
View 1 Replies
I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
View 14 Replies
I have been having with my ford ranger. I bought this off my nephew bcuz he needed some money and never drove it due to it being a 5speed and he has a kid and a wife and no room. OK the issue I am having is in gear or neutral I can't get the 2.5 motor over 3000rpms in any gear at all. If you rev the engine up or r driving it when it hits between 2900-3000 rpms the motor acts as if it is going to die and looses all power until you let off the gas. I have replaced the following items on the truck. Oh by the way I have a Cam 2 hand held and there are no codes or warning lights. All new parts :
1) new fuel pump
2) fuel filter
3)new timing belt
4)new motor craft platinum plugs
5) new motor craft plug wires
6)new Mass air flow meter
7) clutch,pressure plate & throw out bearing along with new slave(that needed it replaced others since I was there)
8) exhaust tube behind motor(rotted out)
9) new idle control sensor (acts as elect. Choke)
Truck starts up real quick and idles fine, but when truck is cold the rpms @ 2500 does the same as when it is warm @ 3000 rpms. I even took it to the local ford dealer in my town. Youngstown oh @ Fred martin ford. They told me the wires should be replaced and plugs along with mass air flow valve. I called them after replacing it and told them no difference and the service manager told me to bring it in again and they will look again. Service manager told me he has never heard of this type of problem and I went to a local garage mentioned it to the lead mechanic. He said that is why he doesn't like fords they are to common in chronic problems and can't be fix without a lot of guess work. I have a Hanes manual and did everything it recommends to no avail.
View 14 Replies
I've got 30 lbs of fuel pressure that drops to 28 if you rev it up a bit on a 1998 ranger 4.0 with a new fuel filter. Haynes manual say it should be 56-72 lbs. Bad news is fuel pressure regulator is in the tanks with the pump. Can the regulator be swapped out or is it one assembly with the fuel pump? Is there anything I should check first?
View 4 Replies
Ok so my dad has been using my 98 while I was fixing his 92 4.0. I had the 92 perfect and then someone pulled in front of me and totaled it out. Well now I got my 98 back and it's all messed up. Check engine is on p0171. Fuel pressure test done and it's steady 40-42 psi. I remember last year I checked it was like 68-72 psi. It hasn't been a year or two since fuel pump and strainer were replaced. Filter probably 15,000 miles ago. It's currently running good sometimes it cuts off when you start it then next time it stays running. Is this another fuel pump failure? How much longer will it last on 40 psi? The fuel lines and tank have 336,000 miles, engine maybe 150,000 and injectors have about 20,000 miles on them.
View 4 Replies
I got this 98 Ranger 2.5 that I've done a tune-up on less than 30,000 miles ago. I changed plugs, wires, and both coil packs. Timing belt, thermostat, fuel pump, fuel injectors are all recently changed too within a year or two. Fuel filter and air filter I change every 30,000 miles. The truck runs as great as a 4 Cylinder will run. It's at 344,000 miles but the engine was changed once so it probably has over 100,000 miles on it. There is just a slight miss you can hear through the tailpipe but it's not severe enough to be picked up by the Check Engine Light. In fact, even when the coils were totally gone it never put up the Check Engine Light. I can tell when a coil pack is going out on this because it's done it several times so I usually just change them with the tune-up. It's only a slight miss some people may not even notice it. I was just wondering is there any way to track down where the miss is? I tried looking under the hood in the pitch black and there's no plug arcing.
View 1 Replies
so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
View 4 Replies
I have a 98 Ranger SuperCab XLT 4WD 4.0 Auto. Occasionally, especially when it has been sitting for more than 3 days, it shakes for maybe 30 seconds on startup. It smooths out gradually after that, maybe 15 sec. to normal smoothness. It seems like it is firing on all cylinders and is more like something out of balance.
Never does it when sits less than 2 days. When it happens, the longer it sits the worse it shakes.
View 3 Replies
