Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Right Side Turn Signals And Flashers Not Working
May 18, 2016
98 4wd extended cab. So weird only the right side is not working. Lights in the dash to the lights outside everything is dead.
Fuses that I could find are good. We replaced the mf switch a few months ago.
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I recently got a pretty cherry 98 Ranger 3.0 2wd extended cab auto. So far all it has needed was wiper blades, floor mats and a heater blend door. Last week my daughter informed me that the flashers and the turn signals stopped working. I looked for blown fuses and then took the low road and just bought a new flasher (my alldatadiy manual showed that the flasher was common to the turn signals and the hazard flashers so I took a shot at just throwing a part at it). That didn't fix it or else. Any pointers?
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The turn signals and high beams do not work on my 1998 ford ranger xlt 4x4. I have replaced the multi function switch, the yellow flasher relay checked all fusses and all are good. What could be the problem?
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I have an 88 ranger with the 2.9l. The headlights work and the markers do to. The brights don't though. and also none of the turn signals work, the brake lights work though but i don't think the reverse do, I can't see them. Do the turn signals and brights share a fuse on there own? How to diagnose it or what it may be?
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My brake lights, turn signals, and flasher are not working in my truck. Is it a fuse and what fuse? Could it be a relay?
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I had a strange experience this week. Monday afternoon I discovered that my turn signals and 4-way flashers weren't working. I booked a repair appt at my Toyota dealer for Friday.
Wednesday evening I had to make a very sharp turn (270 degrees, roughly) and then discovered that my signals were working again. So I canceled my repair appt; the dealer speculates that there's a short circuit somewhere, which certainly sounds reasonable.
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My AC clutch, radio, cruise control, and turn signals are not working. I have checked all fuses and relays that I can find, all good. From what I have read, these are not part of the GEM function. What I need to check next!
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I noticed that my turn signals stopped working. I replaced the flasher. Now the turn signals work but the signal indicators in the dash don't light up. Also, the hazard lights don't work either. No flashing, no blinking when I turn on my hazards. I've seen many variations while searching? 1994 B3000 2x4 extra cab.....
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I drive a 98 Ford Contour Sport. When I was driving today, I signaled a left turn, and the signal began working erratically. This also happened with a right turn, and, since I deliver sandwiches, happened when I turned my hazards on. Throughout the day it got worse, and eventually stopped working. I'm willing to bet that it's a wiring issue since all of my fuses are fine.
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I have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
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I just bought a 98 passat sedan v6 four days ago. When I purchased it the turn signals and hazards were working. I was driving yesterday and they went out all of the sudden. Thought it was the fuse at first, changed it, still not working. I bought a turn signal flasher relay, but the repair manual doesn't tell me which one it is so I can change it.
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Recently, I lost function of brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashers. All happened at the same time. Some threads discuss flasher relays, short steering column wiring (position of steering wheel), and fuse failures.
I checked #18 fuse and a few others. All had continuity. I assumed my bulbs were all good. My hazard push-pull switch did not feel right. There didn't seem to be engagement. At this point, there was a good chance that the multi-function column switch had failed so I decided to try replacing it. I'm happy to report that this switch was the cause of all the light function failures and now, all is well again.
Removal is done by prying the key lock switch cover off,, removing three 1" Philips head screws that attach the lower column shield to the upper shield. At that point the upper shield can be completely removed. The lower shield was not totally removed because the tilt lever was left on. The switch is attached to the column with two 3/4" Torx 20 fasteners. The upper is easily accessible and the lower fastener can be removed by pulling the lower column shield down so access can be achieved. The two wiring harnesses have a conventional harness lock to depress and the connectors pull outward from the switch. Installation is the reverse of removal, noting the dowel locator and small plastic dowel on the lower shield.
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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today my 98 ranger 4.0 would love to have cruise control once again .
I have checked the obvious , fuses connectors etc. I know on my f250 they had an issue with the pressure sensor mounted on the brake master cylinder leaking , I did check that and not leaking yet . I can't even get the system to turn on. So my question to to the forum , is there a common issue with ranger cruise control that I am unaware of ?
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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I've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
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I noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
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So with 172,000 miles my truck has started a new trick. When I turn on the turn signals theyll flash or interrupt normally for a few times then stop. After I turn the signal lever off and back on again they start to flash again only to stop after several times. This happens to both the left and right hand sides. The emergency flashers seem to work alright. Is this a function of the indicator flasher SF631? If so, were exactly is it located?
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I thought I saw someone had converted the reflectors on the front of the side mirrors to turn signal flashers on the 2010-2012 F150. Where I can find that write up?
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This morning the passenger side wiper on my 89 Ranger stopped working. I heard a clunk noise and it stopped but driver side still works. What should I check first? I'm guessing a shaft came off but don't know where it is located.
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Well now I have to replace the multi function switch due to moving my steering wheel and the headlights sometimes working and turning signals not working. I saw a great video on youtube about changing a Multi Function Switch and it shows where the air bag needs to be removed. I was hoping that since my truck is an older 1997 F250 LD I wouldn't have to remove the airbag. Is there a way to do this w/out messing with the airbag on the 1997?
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