Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Replace Blend Door Actuator?
Jan 14, 2014
I purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......
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Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
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Compressor clutch engages, lines are cold, when it works air is cold. A/C guy thinks the blend door isn't working right, is it vacuum operated or electric?
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My actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
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What is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
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I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
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Where is the Blend Door Actuator on the ford Aerostar?
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Started the other day. Seems like the blend door that channels air to the dash vents is opening and closing as it feels like it. Sometimes open for awhile, sometimes closed. The defrost vents keep blowing cold and normal while doing this.
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Time for me to replace the actuator. I just have one. I've watched many videos on it but none say anything about re-calibration before using. A few posts say this is needed. Is it? if so how is it done?
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I have an Explorer with automatic A/C. The blend door actuator broke (a gear inside) so I replace it with a Dorman part (could not find the Ford ones anywhere). Part #604-202, looks identical and fits. But... doesn't work.
If I do the EATC test (OFF+FLOOR, then AUTOMATIC), the display shows error coded 024, 025, 052. What is the meaning of those?
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I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
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I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
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Over the last few days I have read several threads about heaters not working and blend door replacement. My '02 4.6 F-150 has 250k+ miles and I've always done regular maintenance on it. With the cold front moving in I've noticed that the heater is not blowing hot air. I flushed the radiator and flushed the heater core several times to make sure the core was not clogged. I also replaced the upper radiator hose because of the "crunchy" sound when squeezed. I also replaced the thermostat. Still, the heater is not blowing hot. I assume like many others that the blend door needs to be replaced. My question is do I need to replace the door only or the door and the motor (actuator)? I guess I need to test the motor before buying a new one. I saw a video where you remove all the components on the transmission hump and can actually stick you finger in the motor opening to see if the shaft has come apart.
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Beside the normal tools you will need a mirror, flashlight, very long needlenose pliers, and tin snips. There are 2 screws holding the driver door panel on, one is in the courtesy light at the bottom and the other is inside the switch compartment. You must also twist the light socket out, pop the cover off above the switches, pry the switch pod up at the FRONT and slide forward, and unplug the switches.
Now pull straight up on the panel and remove it after taking the light out at the bottom;
Tape the membrane up out of your way
You will need mirrors like these and very long needlenose.
Remove all the yellow plastic screws holding this aqua connector and it's wires and tuck it into the corner of the door.
Now you have a clear view of the actuator;
Try to pop this yellow plastic clip loose with your fingers and if not drill a hole above the oval hole and use a screwdriver;
Take the 3 screws out at the latch;
Push the plastic screws in holding the black cable and look through the oval hole to locate the green clip holding the rod to the door latch handle.
Cut the oval hole bigger so you can access the next steps;
Rotate the whole unit around until you can pop the green clip loose with a screwdriver by prying or pulling on the small side of the green clip and then locate the rod next to it (not mentioned in other posts), and disconnect it by using your very long needle nose to squeeze one side and a long screwdriver to pry the rod out;
Rotate the entire unit out around the window track, remove the wire harness, unplug the two other harnesses, and insert screwdriver under actuator before sliding it off.
Now you are ready to do the tin foil fix or just replace the actuator.
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2008 F-350 Lariat, 6.4L, dual climate control. The passenger side blows ONLY hot air whereas driver side seems to blow whatever is called for. Is it right to assume this is the passenger side actuator, and this actuator is the "easy" one to replace (i.e. not pulling dash)? I read in another thread that there might be a question on determining the correct one to replace, so therefore I ask for clarification. How to verify if my assumption wrong?
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I am trying to replace the key lock cylinder (where you insert your key to start the truck) in my 93 Ranger. Using the Haynes manual, I have removed the steering wheel cover (I don't have airbags), pulled the steering wheel, removed the 3 plastic decorative shrouds and looked at a naked steering column assembly. The manual says there is a 1/8" hole on the bottom of the steering assembly where you can push up the actuator pin to release the lock cylinder assembly.
I looked and looked (even with a flashlight) and could not find a hole. I looked at the new key lock cylinder assembly and found the little actuator pin so I sorta know where the pin would be in the installed assembly. The entire key lock assembly is enshrouded (is that a word?) in the cast aluminum steering assembly.
There was a small metal plate - but that plate is just for access of the release of the steering wheel lock actuator (so I carefully bent it back!!). I know all this is for theft protection, but the truck is co safe I can't even replace the lock assembly.
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I noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
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what i have is the driver's side door on my 1999 ranger is hard to open, the door seal sticks to the door and makes it hard to open, i am afraid of breaking the door handle off, is there any thing to clean seal with to make it not stick? the seal is not sticky to touch neither is the door but when out in the sun for a while they stick together, mechanic told me to spray with wd40 that didn't
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My sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
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1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
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I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
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