I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
my 98 ranger od/ light is blinking and shifts hard took it to a tranny shop they rebuilt the tranny & replaced torque converter got truck back drove for a week got on highway o/d light blinking again took back to tranny shop he said truck needed good tune up to get a diagnostic reading tired of the excuses they give me. Ready to take to another shop then sue 1st shop for bad work the ranger has a 4.0 v6 at 4wd ?
View 3 RepliesI have a 03 ranger with a v6/auto trans. it drives fine around town. after i get on the freeway the overdrive light will start flashing. when i get off the freeway it will shift extremely rough. if i turn the truck off and right back on it will be fine again. What could be the problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a 99 Ranger, 3.0 xlt 2WD Automatic 5r55e(???) tranny (i know its the 5). I have the o/d off light flashing. It comes on when fluid gets to op temp. When on it shifts hard into 2nd and hard when it downshifts. No slipping. I have had the truck in the tranny shop for 3 weeks, owner said he re built valve body gasket (didnt work) tried 3 diff used tranny's (didn't work) or so he says. He said it needs to be rebuilt.
I have searched up and down for what it could be, there is so much out there, it only confused me more. If i have to rebuild i will, i think the tranny shop was pulling my leg (for more reasons than mentioned). I have a check engine light on nothing to do with tranny...there is a tranny code, he would not tell me but i will have it checked. Been told could be throttle position sensorl, speed sensor cracked case and a million other things. I have some mechanical abilities, (not too much w/ tranny's) but i can change a few simple sensors.
I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
I have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
View 6 RepliesI think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
View 3 RepliesWhat would cause my 4x4 high and 4x4 low lights to flash intermediately together on cold mornings while driving? It won't switch into 4x4 when it does this either. When it sits and warms up later in the morning all works as should. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does its annoying not to mention it's sucks when I need 4x4.
View 1 Replies1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Ranger XLT 3.0 that is vibrating hard/rough idling, cel is on (solid, not flashing), has trouble accelerating with pedal punched. Will sometimes get a sudden burst when pedal is punched with rpms going up but most of the time no to slow raise of rpms with pedal engaged. Hooked code reader up to it and read ignition coil. Replaced the coil and changed plugs and wires. Truck still not running right. what gives? Is this a fuel pump, cats clogged, cylinder issue?
View 4 RepliesMy Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
View 5 RepliesMy 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
1992 Ford Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L engine and 5 speed manual transmission. 135,000 miles, no AC and no power steering. I am having poor clutch disengagement and resulting hard shifting. The shop added a little fluid to the reservoir last oil change and it is still looking full. I always park on concrete and never see any leaking. I don't know what may have been done before as I haven't had the pickup all that long. Where should I start? Is there probably internal bypass leaking in the hydraulic clutch as there seems to be no external leaking?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
View 13 RepliesI have an '89 Ranger, Extended Cab, 2x4, 2.3l, Manual transmission with 255,000 on the odometer. I've owned it since 1990 and as far as I can remember it has either never had a clutch or only had one. I realize it's past due.
Everything has been fine up until this morning. 10 minutes after leaving the driveway this morning going a steady 55mph, no incline, it sounded almost as if I hit a deer. The truck jerked real hard, I put it back into 5th, and limped to my destination. Keep in mind for the next 30 or so miles there was absolutely no clutch slippage.
Here's the symptoms: No slippage, won't go into gears (I have to match rev's and shift without clutch, I drive a big rig and do this daily), when I do get it in 1st at a stop sign it wants to lurch with clutch all the way pushed down, I still have a great clutch pedal, and the most interesting thing to me is it sounds like something is being tossed around in my bell housing.
I'm almost 100% certain it's the clutch, however, I just wanted to come on here and report I have no slippage and it sounds like something being tossed around in the bell housing area. Is it possible a piece of the clutch could have "broke" off and that was what that huge jerk at 55 mph was? Approx. how much would a shop charge to put a clutch in on this model? I live in a rural area where prices are not inflated.
I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger, 4.0 automatic 4x4...I just replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets and after fumbling with the pug wires to finally get them in the right order, I suddenly find my OD light flashing off and on, and the tranny slamming into second, and once in top gear can feel the OD popping in and out? From my reading here it looks like a pretty common problem, but the solution isn't as clear...
The vehicle set for about 3 months while I healed up from a injury, and and was working just fine when I parked it...due to the blown lower intake gasket. I am thinking I have a vacuum line not connected or wrongly connected...or some kind of over looked item, but I can't spot anything...should I get a code reader and go from there...
2000 powerstroke 4r100 transmission. It has 155k just had it rebuilt and the shop is having a night as am I. It was shifting hard and the o/d off light would start flashing after you drove it a while. Its still doing the same thing and the shop checked the whole wiring harness and replaced the accumulator twice believing they got a bad re-manufactured one. The only code I can pull is a 605 pcm read only memory error. Could the cause be a bad pcm? The shop doesn't seem to have a clue at this point and I'm out 2500. IV taken it back twice now and Iv driven it a total of 35 miles since the rebuild...
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