Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Gas Leak / Smell Whenever Start The Motor
Aug 1, 2013
My ranger decided to start leaking fuel somewhere probably a few weeks ago. I can smell it whenever I start the motor, and sometimes while driving with the windows down. Last night, I finally looked into the problem. I took the intake air hose off. The hose, air filter, and whole intake smells like gas. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case on a fuel injected engine. After seeing some people talk about the Fuel Pressure Regulator go bad, I pulled the vacuum line off of it, and it has a very strong gas smell. I don't see any gas coming out of it, though, even with the motor running. Everything I read says if the regulator is bad, then gas should come out of the vacuum line. Is there another check I can do on it to confirm this is the problem? Is there somewhere else I should be looking? It got two new heads right before this problem started, so its quite possible I knocked something putting it back together.
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I saw a nice very clean 2011 ranger with 63,000 miles on it . But there looks like it has a oil leak on the upper right front of the motor. Behind the pulley that does not have any groves in it . It could be a gasket or a oil seal I don't know. Is this oil leak something common with the 2.3 engine?
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My truck lost its exhaust a few months ago and it's on the back list of things for this truck so I've been running it without it. However, my neighbors do not like it so, I frequently shut the truck off and coast in down my driveway to park it when it's late. But anytime I do that, I will park the truck and notice a puddle of ATF(ps) on the ground and the PS pump goes empty. Nearly no loss for a weeks when I don't turn the wheel with the motor off.
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I bought a '98. At the front passenger side of the engine, the injector rail is leaking fuel (a fair stream of it). I have done some googling, and browsing around the forums, and can't find much in the way of specific info on where to start with this.
Whatever the device at the front of the rail - Without digging too far, it seems that the leak is coming just below it.
Questions:
Am I obliged to change injectors with the rail?
What is involved with changing the rail? Removing upper intake only? At all?
What is the box shaped device at the front of the rail, passenger side? Test port? Pressure Regulator? Both?
I won't have a chance to work on this again until next weekend, but thought I'd try to do some homework beforehand.
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 3.0L engine that is having some issues with starting, here is what is happening.
Every so so often when the key is turned to start there is no movement from the starter motor. The battery is fine and all of the dash lights stay on while the engine is not starting. I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured model (possibly a mistake), and also replaced the clutch interlock switch.
I have attempted to change the ignition switch but the replacement I received did not even try to turn the starter (after many tries), like possibly it was faulty out of the box. I am currently using the OEM ignition switch as it will at least turn the starter eventually. I just worry that this problem will develop further at the wrong time.
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My 1998 ranger is a base model truck, 5-speed stick, 2.5L, 2wd, rubber and vinyl everything, manual everything, not even any A/C. Exactly what I wanted in my daily driver. This past weekend, I changed the heater core. Painfully (as if there's a non-painful way to replace a heater core in a modern vehicle). Thought I did everything right, reconnected everything that was connected to begin with, had no leftover fasteners, no plugs or wires hanging down, etc.
The only malfunction, besides the core, prior to the repair was an intermittent parking brake light when the parking brake was applied. Not a big deal. Now that the dash is put back together, none of the tail lights work, no running, brake, turn, or reverse, my interior light does not come on when the door opens, and the truck will turn over, but not start. I have reconnected the big screw-in plug on the steering column, checked a bunch of fuses, and gave a big middle finger to the plug on the backside of the light switch, and nothing seems to work.
What could cause something like this? Have any of you encountered a problem like this when changing cores or removing the dashboard? The truck is currently sitting in a parking space at my local fire station now that I've pushed it out (I'm a volunteer, so I made use of our empty 4th bay) and I'm sure my chief, while he is the blue-collar embodiment of Ned Flanders and one of the nicest people you could ever meet, does not want it staying there, parked all
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The facts: 98 rangers 4.0 4x4 177k
The issue: does the dreaded shudder start, check engine light is on saying lean bank 1 bank 2.
Fixes so far: have replaced every gasket intake base up, a lot of new sensors on the intake. All 3 of the 02 sensors new. Have not touched egr. Thoroughly inspected plenum and intake hose for cracks, no Pitts in the intake.
It's a NEBRASKA truck with zero rust. Thought maybe fuel pump might cause all these issues, however, the turn the key twice trick before starting makes no difference, and I can hear the pump turn on each time I turn the key.
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I'm 1200 miles from home living in a hotel right now. Was on my way to the store this morning and I took it out of gear. When to put it back in, and it wouldn't go in. Fortunately, I was still moving, so I coasted off into a parking lot. Once I shut the engine off, it went right into gear. It moves freely through them all. As soon as I start the engine, it won't shift. It is not my clutch. I can start the engine with it in gear and the clutch in, and it won't creep at all (was sitting on level ground when I tried). At least this means I can get it places if I slip the clutch a lot. Took the inspection cover off, and all looks well in there. It hasn't been acting strange. It shifted just fine right up until this. No strange noises either until now.
Now there is a slight squeaking sound if I try to force it into gear with our without the clutch pushed in. Since I've never let a mechanic touch my baby before, and I have to now, what possible things should I be looking for to make sure they are honest? I'm thinking maybe I killed my pilot bearing? Second, while its apart, I'm going to have them replace the clutch and slave cylinder since its got 160K on it and as far as I know, the previous owners never did that. Recommendations on what clutch to get? Its been towing some lately. I don't know if that makes a difference.
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
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1998 F150 4x4 4.2 ... Small leak spraying out of a steel pipe onto the front of the motor. This isn't my truck so I'm not very familiar with it but looks like there is a pipe that come from the water pump threw a bracket and y's and one end has a hose going to heater core n the other part is where the leak is I think it has a hose connected to it that goes to the intake. Only leaks when thermostat open. I'm going to take it apart tonight n see what I find. Iv looked for a replacement part and found nothing so I am going to try n replace the steel pipe with hose.
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My MILaw Truck 1992 ranger isnt running good and I need to get it going
Only a P0111 at this time IIRC
We started the truck tonight and idel ok Could see the motor Stumble every so often. She went to drive it and it Cuts out under Load Or you must rev it up to keep it from Stalling.
And if it does Cut out you have to let it sit for 5 minutes to restart what is Weird is it dont Smell Flooded either I smelled the VAC Line to the FPR and it was DRY and Did NOT Smell like Fuel.
It was dark didnt do much trouble shoot as the Flashlight died. I wonder about Fuel Filters. And Also about the Idel Control. The Mis or Stumble seams Random
Any testing I can do I have a DVM and that Code Reader. Might have to find something to check fuel press with where would I check it at the fuel rail I assume. Going to try and go over the Basics tomorrow If there is Anything Specific I should check?
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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1996 Ranger 2.3. I bought it from a friend 2 months ago. 228,866 miles. The motor seems to stumble as I'm going through the gears. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and installed new air filter. Check engine light has always been on, O'Reillys hooked up their computer to it and said Emission Valve Malfunction. I see the charcoal canister, then I have 2 electrical sensors on same line. First one from canister looks like what Rockauto.com shows as a Vapor Canister Purge Valve. The photo has it with a yellow orangeish top. I don't know what this 2nd sensor is. It has a blue top.
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I just changed my front brakes in my 05 Ranger. New rotors, pads, bearings (packed), racers, new caliper on driver side, bleed all for brakes. Now when I am just about to stop it feels like the left front is grabbing. I also hear the ABS motor humming when it grabbs. Don't whats causing it?
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I have a 1987 ford ranger, it has a 2.0L carborated motor and I also have a 1994 ford ranger fuel injected motor I believe it's a 2.3L, I am wondering if the swap will work to put the 94 motor in the 87....
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My actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
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