i i am having trouble getting the quick connect on the slave cylinder to go back in i just pulled the entire transmission and replaced the clutch and now when i try to put the quick connect fitting in the slave it is rock solid and will not go in at all
View 1 Replies2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
View 3 RepliesSo went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
I have a 2006 Ranger XLT 3.0 that is vibrating hard/rough idling, cel is on (solid, not flashing), has trouble accelerating with pedal punched. Will sometimes get a sudden burst when pedal is punched with rpms going up but most of the time no to slow raise of rpms with pedal engaged. Hooked code reader up to it and read ignition coil. Replaced the coil and changed plugs and wires. Truck still not running right. what gives? Is this a fuel pump, cats clogged, cylinder issue?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
View 3 RepliesHow can I eliminate the factory Ford (2001 7.3) quick connect fuel line clamp on the output side on my OEM fuel pump? Do I just cut off the factory quick connect and add some 5/15 fuel line? Is it that simple or is there something I need to know prior to cutting off the factory quick connect clamps?
View 6 RepliesThis morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 RepliesWhen I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
View 1 RepliesMy sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
View 5 RepliesMy clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
I've had my truck a few years now but for 2 it was basically parked. When I started trying to use it again I am having issues with the clutch now. When it is cold everything is fine, but on hot days or after I have been driving for a while It will lock the pedal up and will not let me dis-engage the clutch at all. Sometimes when it does eventually let the pedal down it will go to the floor and stay there for a few seconds until it slaps back up and engages slamming the truck into gear.
I have yet to try much. I'm not good at working on anything other than stereos in cars but I am willing to try. My thought is some water got into the system and is boiling in the lines but I am not sure. Places to start? I really need my truck going and the couple places I've taken it dont even want to try it seems like.
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
Will a clutch/flywheel and 5 spd from a 1997 ranger bolt up to an older 1980ish engine that had a 4 spd? What about the starter?
View 1 RepliesMy buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?