What would cause my 4x4 high and 4x4 low lights to flash intermediately together on cold mornings while driving? It won't switch into 4x4 when it does this either. When it sits and warms up later in the morning all works as should. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does its annoying not to mention it's sucks when I need 4x4.
View 1 RepliesTruck is a 2003 Ranger EDGE 2wd auto w/140K miles (looks new) that was a one owner truck I recently bought. Came from Texas and is clean and was well maintained I got all service records up until I bought it in the fall last year. OK now the problems...
First...it has a high idle in the mornings when cold about 2000RPM. After it warms up it settles to about 800-900RPM but is VERY ROUGH to the point where it feels it will stall. I DID replace the spark plugs and the plug wires look newer and are not OEM. I DID remove and clean the IAC and it does not look very dirty but I did slightly clean it anyway.
When I did this I disconnected the battery for 20min. After I put it back together it ran smooth for about the first 10 minutes then same rough idle came back. I was told this truck has no EGR so that's not an issue. There are NO CODES and when I ran my pocket scanner nothing comes up either. Should I just go to NAPA and get a new IAC anyway? What else can I do?
I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
View 6 RepliesI understand there is not much adjustable on my 98 Ranger (2.5L) as far as idle speed and mixture. It runs rough when started cold. Is this a sign to replace spark plugs?
View 2 Replies98 ford Ranger 2.5L.
I have not heat from the vents, doesn't get warm at all. If I idle the enginer in 30 Degree weather it gets to almost the C.
Upper Radiator hose is hot, I have verified the thermostat is new and it opens at 192 degrees as it should. Replaced the Water Pump, Fan spins freely.
I have attempted to burp the system, it isn't kicking out anymore air from the lines that I can tell. I used a large funnel and filled it with Anti-freeze, it filled the radiator, burped the system and the reservoir filled to overflowing. All with the engine hot. (To be specific the funnel was always full of fluid so no air could get sucked backwards)
The heater core hose on the left when looking from the front of the vehicle does not get hot, the one on the right gets warm. I theorize that the heater core is clogged up somehow and that is why that left line doesn't get hot. There is no fluid in the cab of the truck from the core.
The turn signals and high beams do not work on my 1998 ford ranger xlt 4x4. I have replaced the multi function switch, the yellow flasher relay checked all fusses and all are good. What could be the problem?
View 7 RepliesMade a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
1998 4.0 ... She only misses about 30 seconds during stone cold startup. I figure it's probably the plug thats hardest to reach ? Isn't that the way it always is? From the hood I can see only one spark plug, so I figure I'll do all the plugs. Is there any right or wrong approach to the plugs? I did the thermostat today, but this plug job looks like it's gonna be a bitch. Time for some skinned knuckles Next is the right side O2 sensor, that looks like fun too. But I gotta say, this little truck is sweet. Great visibility and easy to park in the city. I really like her. She's a keeper. She needs some new sway bar bushings too, but no surprise with 127 K on the clock.
View 5 RepliesWent from right around 18 to 14-15 last 2 tanks. No codes, drives absolutely normal. I have had my 4x4 lights flashing, but the 4x4 has never worked (suspect its a combination of the transfer case motor and the pulse vacuum hubs). Used to flash like this when I would try the 4x4 switch and would take a while to "get back to where it was happy". Recently I have not messed with the switch or anything else.
View 14 RepliesI have spent two days searching for a fix to a problem like mine on my truck and I haven't quite found it. Sooo, here it is. I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 4x4. I'm getting the dreaded six lights flashing. I can hear the clicking under the dash as it attempts to engage the 4WD. I have checked the Motor at the T/C and no power. What feeds voltage to the motor its self? and is there any other thing I can check B-4 having it scanned? oh and it is a manual tranny.
View 4 RepliesMy 1998 ranger is a base model truck, 5-speed stick, 2.5L, 2wd, rubber and vinyl everything, manual everything, not even any A/C. Exactly what I wanted in my daily driver. This past weekend, I changed the heater core. Painfully (as if there's a non-painful way to replace a heater core in a modern vehicle). Thought I did everything right, reconnected everything that was connected to begin with, had no leftover fasteners, no plugs or wires hanging down, etc.
The only malfunction, besides the core, prior to the repair was an intermittent parking brake light when the parking brake was applied. Not a big deal. Now that the dash is put back together, none of the tail lights work, no running, brake, turn, or reverse, my interior light does not come on when the door opens, and the truck will turn over, but not start. I have reconnected the big screw-in plug on the steering column, checked a bunch of fuses, and gave a big middle finger to the plug on the backside of the light switch, and nothing seems to work.
What could cause something like this? Have any of you encountered a problem like this when changing cores or removing the dashboard? The truck is currently sitting in a parking space at my local fire station now that I've pushed it out (I'm a volunteer, so I made use of our empty 4th bay) and I'm sure my chief, while he is the blue-collar embodiment of Ned Flanders and one of the nicest people you could ever meet, does not want it staying there, parked all
This is a question in general about Fords. My 98 Ranger doesn't do it. He's got a 1987 Ford Mustang 5.0 with original factory a/c. He changed his compressor to a used one and it started running all the time whether the swtich was off or on. He said he switched back to his original compressor and it still does it. I figured it might be something common for Ford a/c systems so I figured I would ask. I'm not sure why it would be unless the mode switch was bad.
View 5 Replies2003 ranger xlt 4wd electrical - My radio lights up when driving lights are on but no clock display or anything else. My cigarette lighter and aux power outlet do not work and mym 4wd does not work. when i try to change from 2wd to 4wd no lights come on in the dash. I have checked all fuses and they are good. What to check next?
View 4 RepliesThe Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
View 12 RepliesI’ve got a 1998 Ranger with 166,000 miles and it’s starting this weird idle at stops where the engine drops about 150 RPM’s and then fluctuates. The problem is intermittent and no pattern as to cold or warm engine. I changed the plugs and wires at 100,000 and the plugs again at 150,000, so the wires have 66,000 and the plugs 16,000. I really don't want to shotgun the plugs, wires and coil pack. I understand that vacuum might have something to do with my problem?
View 14 RepliesOk I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 camry 4 cylinder and only on cold mornings after engine starts, right then I hear a one time hump or a poot like noise near the belt area /passenger side. I've changed out the powe rsteering fluid but still does it.. never does it when warm or again after driving, only on cold mornings.
View 2 Replies96 Acura with a weird habit. On cold mornings, after a few minutes it starts this thing where it revs up about 500 or so, then back down. It does this while parked or when driving. When driving, it still revs up, but also revs down - like it's putting in extra resistance or something; have to give it extra gas when it does that. This usually stops once it warms up. Also, it runs a fair bit higher until warmup, then settles back down to 'normal.'
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 Ranger, 4.0 automatic 4x4...I just replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets and after fumbling with the pug wires to finally get them in the right order, I suddenly find my OD light flashing off and on, and the tranny slamming into second, and once in top gear can feel the OD popping in and out? From my reading here it looks like a pretty common problem, but the solution isn't as clear...
The vehicle set for about 3 months while I healed up from a injury, and and was working just fine when I parked it...due to the blown lower intake gasket. I am thinking I have a vacuum line not connected or wrongly connected...or some kind of over looked item, but I can't spot anything...should I get a code reader and go from there...