Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 4.0 - Timing Chain Getting Loose?
Aug 18, 2014
I really love this little truck. It's got 129,000 on it, but when I shut it down I can hear the chain clattering on the guides a little. Makes me wonder how much longer it will go before jumping a tooth. The truck has always been well maintained, but is there any ballpark figure when they usually let go? Is it worth it to pull the engine and put in a new chain? I'm fairly new to the Ranger.
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I recently bought a 98 CE with about 80k miles for my commuter car. Overall I am very please with it but today I started hearing a metallic type chattering sound from the left side of the engine (looking from the front). Sounds to me like the timing chain is slightly loose and maybe the cause of the sound but when I search all the auto pats websites it doesn't show a timing chain tensioner. So do I have a belt or a chain? What the sound is? it doesn't do it continuously but it does seem to only start when the engine is warmed up and at idle. I did a compression test and all the cylinders are in the ballpark so Im hoping that's means my valves aren't taping.I cant imagine it would have lasted this long if the valves were taping (driven it about 500 miles so far).
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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I have 2000 V6 3.0 Ranger and it has sprung a small coolant leak from timing chain cover gasket. I think just few drips after driving a while since I don't see significant drop in coolant level (Took a month to notice level dropped in reservoir) and did not see an active leak while idling. No water in the oil.
The proper repair would be to replace the gasket, but for the age and condition of the truck, I don't think it is worth it. Searching for a cheaper solution, I found K-Seal and see lots of reviews with success. Will it damage the cooling system in anyway? I think it would be worth a try even if it doesn't fix the leak as long as it does not cause any harm.
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is it possible for a loose timing chain to cause a engine miss.
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Vanos makes rattling sound. When the car is running it makes a noise in the vanos area as if the chain is loose its kind of like a metal sound the car don't idle roughly the rpm needle is steady don't seem like I am loosing power. do all of them make that noise or this is something i should be concerned with.
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I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
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I've tried every variation of installing the timing belt on my '91 2.3L Ranger, still not in. The belt seems as if it's too short but I've been told that it "barely" fits, no kidding! I've pulled the crank balancer/timing trigger off and put it back on three or four times already. What's the trick? Everytime I get it close I'm off a tooth or more. Just frustrated, tired of hitching a ride to work.
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What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
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I've a 1993 2.3 and 1992 4.0 both with a/c systems down. On the 1993 Ranger I tried to loosen the evaporator tube nut to install the new accumulator now it looks like there's going to have to be a new evaporator. Without hardly any pressure that tube just twisted like it was nothing. Someone told me I have to spray it with wd-40 3 days prior to loosening it. I doubt that would even work. Hopefully removing the evaporator case cover under the hood won't be too time consuming because now I've got to. So I don't want to make the same mistake on my 1992 4.0. I need to change the accumulator, orifice tube, flush the evaporator, condenser, install the new hoses, and compressor before evacuating and recharging. Is there anything that makes it a breeze to loosening those evaporator and liquid line nuts without destroying the evaporator?
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I have a 2000 Ranger step side and the bed side is loose and and I'm trying to figure out how to reattach it. It's loose towards the front of the bed on the passenger side right where the actual step is. Is there an attachment point underneath the the plastic step cover?
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
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I have a noise in my rear end, if I grab the bed of the truck, and rock the body back and forth, I hear a clunk, almost sounds like a wheel is loose, but checked them, all good, also checked the U-joints, and pulled the driveshaft to grease the spindle. Thinking it could be in the third member, maybe the Differential pinion shaft, or the lock bolt......
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I have a 07 Ranger and the passenger door sounds loose when I hit any bump. Where should I start to make any adjustments on the door?
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I was driving up a hill an it started to loose power. i got up to the top of the highway an stopped an it just shut down. got towed home i thought it could of been the alternator but dose not seem to be. took the belt off to spin the motor an its not spinning. drained the oil an there is no metal in it to see if the motor was done. i try to start it an it just dose a click click an that's it. Is the motor done or is it a transmission problem?
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Well, I had a friend put together my front brake rotor, now no more pulsating when coming to a stop, very smooth stop, new front brakes, had it aligned as well.. Also replaced the front shocks, however the passenger side came loose and rattles when going over bumps, speed bumps. I popped the hood, bounced my truck and could see it moving from left to right when bouncing front end of truck.
Question is, can i tighten it up myself, I dont have a jack, limited tools, I know, I know but i dont at the moment. My friend that worked on my truck lives a good drive and i hate to waste gas just for tightening something that should have been done but i have too, I will..
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I have an '04 Ranger Edge 3.0 with a severe coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the area where the head/water pump housing meet. I have been told I've lost the seal behind the pump on the timing cover. Is there any way to know for sure? Will I be able to tell, once the pump is out that it isn't coming from the head side? Are there any "special" instructions for re-sealing after replacing pump?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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I have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
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My sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
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