I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
View 3 RepliesIt's a few times in the past 2 weeks, the shift lever won't come out of PARK easily. Sometimes I have to wiggle the shifter for quite awhile before I can get the shifter to shift out of PARK. It also doesn't start when that happens, like everything works but it doesn't start. It's like it's locked. It finally lets go and I can start it and put it in Drive and Reverse and go on my way. But there's not set thing that I can do to make it work.
It's just luckily let me go the few times it's happened. We replaced the shift cable about 1.5-2 years ago and of course the cable is out of warranty. But even if it's the cable, it's definitely going into park because you can hear the click when you stop the truck and turn it off, and throw it into PARK. But when the shift get's stuck it won't crank or make any kind of cranking noise, it's like the battery is dead but it isn't. When it happens you can't even shift it out of PARK to try and start it in D or R.
So I was thinking something could be going on with the NSS. Is there any kind of brake pedal interlock switch on a 98 Ranger? I notice when I start it and press the brake pedal it clicks loud under the dash, which I don't remember hearing always. But maybe it always makes that click when you hit the pedal because I usually always have the radio on. What I can do if the shift gets stuck when I go to leave work? What do I need to look at to determine the problem?
Went to work one day and went to put my truck in park and it went as far as reverse. It has alot of play in the shifter. I have had a couple of people look at it and said that they would not touch it because of the air bag. I am not afraid to work on it myself if I just knew what to do. I am a single mom and on a budget, I would rather do it myself.
View 6 Replies1997 2.3 5 Speed. My poor truck is having a hard time shifting into gears. I have bled the master off the truck with the correct method, bled it on the truck with the hose on the slave method while pushing the pedal and multiple times with no bubbles coming out at all, no leaks, etc.
Here's the breakdown -
- Clutch, slave cylinder and shifter bushings replaced about 3 years ago (everything has less than 7000 miles on it)
- While driving and pushing in the clutch, it clearly disengages, although quite a ways down.
- Only shifts hard while running. If I sit with it off with the clutch in, I can shift through all the gears with no effort whatsoever. At times while driving, it gets so hard to shift that it may become dangerous.
- Only things I haven't replaced are the master cylinder and the flywheel.
Should I just assume a bad master and just replace it? It's the original with 188,200 miles on it.
Forgot to mention there are times that when I am at a standstill trying to go into reverse, it grinds like the transmission is still engaged.
My 1999 ford ranger pick up is an automatic. Recently the gear shift display reflects it is in R when in park, N when in drive and D when it is 2. Does it just need transmission fluid or is the transmission going?
View 6 RepliesWhy my trucks engine is cutting out. idles fine and runs fine when on the road, it only stalls in park if i rev the engine, and it stalls immediately when i put it in reverse.
I took it to a shop and they scanned it and said it was a o2 sensor problem. replaced both o2 sensors(they were both bad) but no luck there, still having issues.
I have a 1989 F-250 with 90,000 miles. Fixed steering wheel. When I first start up all lights in and out, radio, heater, wipers, etc. work. When I shift into park everything stops. Dash gauges do work always. Orange "Rear Antilock" warning light is on. If I shutdown, and restart nothing works. So, everything works on initial startup, but not on later startups. No problem restarting and a good charge is showing. If I start it the next morning, all is well until I put it into gear.
View 2 RepliesMy 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
View 3 Replies2007 Ranger 4.0l, idles rough at low rpm, in park or drive, with or without the AC on.
View 1 RepliesThe trucks seems to Idle Rough in Park and Drive, Cold or Hot. It mellows out as soon as I give it gas but at stop lights or in park it goes back to a seemingly rough idle.
This is my first Ford Ranger and dont know if its normal. No code or dummy lights.
2007 2WD 4cyl
ive been experiancing an issue with my trucks shifting. it shifts smoothly but doesnt like shift into 5th, as im driving it stays in 4th longer than necessary. my thought was that it was tied to a shift sensor, what do you think?
View 5 Replies"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 RepliesFord Superduty (F450). The truck is the gasoline 460 engine and E4OD transmission with 100K miles. Runs great and pulls a heavy load.
When the truck is started, I cannot move the shifter from park to any gear. The shifter lever will not pull back. I think that there is something either the ignition switch or an electronic solenoid that prevents shifting the truck from park while it is not running.
So if I turn off the truck and leave the key in the run position, the shifter will release. While holding back on the shifter while in park, I restart the truck, I can then shift into any gear and the truck runs fine. Then if I stop and put the truck back into park, I must shut off the engine, hold back on the shifter, start the truck then shift into gear.
I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
2000 ranger 3.0 auto 4wd hard to shift. Are the cables known to stretch?
View 6 RepliesYesterday my 1999 Ranger 2.5L Automatic got really wierd! The check engine light came on, the overdrive light started flashing, the ABS light came on, and the transmission can't shift out of low, except manually...and to top it off the speedometer quit working! What the heck is going on???? This has got to be all connected somehow.
Up until now, I have had no problems. The truck has about 45K miles. I change the oil at 3-4,000 miles and try to take care of this as my teenage daughter drives this truck to school.
When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
Today my 2001 ford range edge starting running funny. When in park it idles around 3k rpm and then when driving it feels like it wont shift past 2nd because it is around 4k rpm around 50mph and I'm afraid to go to any higher speed for fear of damaging the engine. I'm currently at work so im unable to really get under the hood atm.
View 2 RepliesSo I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
i have a 1999 mazda troy lee b3000. The truck has a 3.0 flex fuel and 4r44e and when you go to drive it. turn the key engine fires up but the trans won't shift into gear. Here is the back story.Bought the truck brand new in 99 I'm the original owner it was a daily driver up until 2 years ago. the truck has over 300k miles and still ran great but the camshaft was starting to go. I was gona replace the cam but came across a killer deal on a new engine. picked up another 3.0 flex fuel with 50k miles. drove the truck into my garage removed the old engine installed the new engine. got in the truck turned the key and the new engine roared to life.
I went to put the truck into gear so i could get it out of the garage and go for a test drive and nothing. went to put it in drive and again nothing. no matter what gear its put in it doesn't move at this point i was confused and decided to quit for the night. That was in 2011 its now 2013 the truck has just sat there sense then. I've tried anything and everything even went as far as swapping transmissions and computers with no luck. I took the trans apart I don't know how many times can't find anything wrong with it.
I bought a 2003 Ford Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed manual. It is hard to shift after it warms up. I test drove it when it was below freezing, so I didn't notice it at first. The warmer the day and quicker the truck warms up, the worse it is. It goes into gear with no problem when the engine is off or if I'm still moving, but if I'm stopped there are times it is hard to get into gear. This really sounded like a clutch that wasn't fully disengaging to me, so I decided to pull it apart. I didn't check the movement at the slave before I started, but I did find the master was a little wet at the rod in the cab.
So, I did the following:
- New clutch master cylinder (system bled out of truck to eliminate air)
- New slave cylinder and bearing
- New pilot bearing
- Changed transmission fluid - Mercon III ATF
I inspected the clutch/pressure plate and it was in good shape and looked like it might have had 10K - 20K miles on it. The last owner said it was recently replaced and it looked it. So, I put it back in. After I was done, I checked the movement at the slave/pressure plate and it is moving about 3/8" - 1/2" when the pedal is down. I was happy and thought this would solve the problem since the old pilot bearing seemed stiff and I saw the leak on the back of the master cylinder.
I drove it and all felt fine at first, but it was a cool day and I didn't drive it that long. When it was warmer over the next couple of days, it started getting hard to shift again. It's not been quite as bad as before, but still doesn't shift right.