As said vibration at idle, as I slowly accelerate (in park) the vibration is worse at 1200 rpm, then keep slowly accelerating and at 1800 rpm completely goes away. Doesn't seem like a miss almost like a balance thing. Also when in gear and accelerating it doesn't seem to be there unless I just don't feel it when moving.
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
I have a 97 ranger 4 cyl that's been making a whistle noise the last few weeks. The sound is literally like a whistle and the noise level varies but its never obnoxious or loud. The sound does not happen when truck is idle, seems to happen mostly when I first accelerate and slow down although sometimes it does happen when I am going 20-30. it doesn't happen all the time but lately its happening more. What this could be? The truck idles and runs great.
View 14 RepliesI'm having a bit of an issue with my 97 ranger 4.0 auto 2wd. I have an vibration which from a stop up about 10 mph feels like wheel hop not bad but you can definitely feel it it and over 50 mph the whole truck starts to shake again not bad but you know its there. the truck sat last summer it was my dd till a bought a new car and now vw is buying it back ill be driving the ranger in the mean time. I have been trying figure it out for a few months but no luck i have put new tires , front rotors and rear drums , drive shaft support bearing ( 2 pc shaft) new u-joints and a used boneyard shaft with new u-joints as well, checked the tail shaft bushing which had about .008" of play.
Pulled the drums Off today and checked the axle bearing for play only .004" of play pulled the diff cover and checked for carrier play as well as pinion play but can't find anything. I'm at a loss here and looking for other things to check ... Don't know if its possible that something in the transmission is loose it was rebuilt about 75k miles ago I was going to stop and talk to the trans shop to see what he thought (its a 5r55e ) ....
i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
View 9 RepliesI have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
I am currently working on a 97 ranger with a 4cyl and 5 speed. its having some idle issues that i cant seem to pin point, you can start it and it will idle rough then when you rev it up it chugs real hard then dies. used my scan tool and all the sensors are good, fuel pressure is good, good compression, all 8 plugs are firing good and no codes. The other deal that has me a little confused is when I unhook the hose that runs from the air intake tube to the valve cover, I get a lot of vacuum at that port on the valve cover that the hose hooks to. Also when I plug it and pull the dipstick, I get vacuum at the dipstick tube. never seen this before but at the same time I've only messed with very few of these trucks so I don't know whats normal.
View 6 RepliesRecently bought a 2003 Ranger Edge with 101,000 miles. Step side. Having trouble filling up with gas. Replaced the hose from the filler neck to the tank (the one with a 90 degree bend) still no luck. It was collapsed.
View 5 RepliesI have 2005 Ranger 4.OL just recently when I accelerate the battery light comes on. No light when driving normal. Stopped by O'reillys had them check the battery, alternator, starter. They said battery bad. So I dropped 130.00 on new battery. Light still comes on when accelerate.
View 6 RepliesMy ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
Whenever I slow down for a car to turn or accelerate after a stop sign the ice cold air goes away and is replaced by warmer air but then it never turns back cold. Only when I kill the engine and start back up does it return. I just had the Freon refilled and there are no leaks.
View 3 RepliesIf I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
View 4 Repliesvibrates on slowing down - no brakes just let off gas - until speed drops down to fairly low. an auto trans. seems to be front end source, the driveshaft and u-joints appear good. I jacked up front and checked tie rods and wheel bearing shake - nothing there?
I haven't found a long enough downhill grade to try it in nuetral selector position at over around 25 mph yet. Could shock absorber do this? They appear good. tires have some miles on them but wheels have the weights on them?
I just totally re-built the rear brakes in my 93 Ranger 2wd. Now its seems I have this 'intermittent vibration' between 90 to 105 km/h.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2000 ranger 2wd with a 5 speed transmission, we just had new tires put on last Sunday and on the way home it had a vibration in 5th gear at 55 mph whats so strange about it is, in 4th gear at 55 mph. it don't do it but when you shift it to 5th and hold it at 55 it starts.
I have checked the drive shaft and even put it on stands and shifted through the gears and held it at 55 no vibration, I guess because there is no load on the drive train. the truck only has 56,000 miles on it.
he has a 2009 ford Ranger, 2.3L .with 54thou miles, the Issue is Vibration during in gear and stopped at a light no vibration at higher rpms during driveing, he states vibration happens in park ,neutral,reverse and drive. had the truck in for repair in two separete dealers they couldent find the problem its an automatic trans. he states from day 1 this truck has had the prob now its out of warrentee.dealer told him that trans to engine alignment was the prob dealer did some alignment and worked for a few weeks.
View 10 RepliesIn my 2006 Ranger XLT, 4.0L V6, 2WD Manual; I am getting vibration from what appears to be the passenger front. I have so far replaced the front wheel bearings (both sides), replaced front shocks and checked rear shocks, rotated tires (to see if it changed) and had front tires balanced. I've also had a friend follow me on the freeway and check the wheel to see if is bouncing, wheel appears to be glued to the road. I have done all the front suspension checks I can and find no indications it is the lower ball joints or tie-rod ends.
This vibration is very in consistant, in different lanes it is better/worse. At times I feel it more in the steering wheel, others my seat and at times the gear shift. I don't believe it to be the engine mount(s) cause when it is vibrating I can shift into netural and the vibration does not change, I have also performed the 5K rev (FORD maitn. manual) and the engine is smooth (along with my expierence with bad mounts in my '94).
Bought a 02 Ranger, 4.0 4x4 super cab 122,000 miles. etc Picked it up for 500 bucks because someone scrapped it along the side of a guardrail this last winter. Replaced rack and Pinion (cracked), Tie rods, Shocks, driver side knuckle and wheel bearing, and some body issues (bed is still shot so if any black short bed sitting around let me know). I've been kind of putting around all day in it, letting it used to working again. Starts right up, turns easily, I string aligned it so it goes where I want.
But as I get up to speed start at about 10MPG there is a vibration based noise coming from the front, can't pin down if its left or right. If Im going straight then turn it gets slightly more intense as I even start turning the steering wheel. The noise increases with vehicle speed. And I don't know if its separate or related, but any turn over 5-10* to the left results in a grinding sound but then I turn to about 10-15 and it gets less intense. No noise turning right.
I'm thinking a bad CV, TWO bad CVs, or a bad differential. Before I start ripping into those things, thought I'd get opinions, or hopefully experience in this area. I'm really hoping its something small and stupid. (like not getting a professional alignment)
I recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...
Have a 99, ext cab, 3.0 , 5 spd man. 125,000 on it. I know the clutch will need replaced shortly but so far it is still functioning with out the slipping. Although I can feel a slight vibration, or buzz when I up shift. My immediate concern is the clattering/rattling. say at idle, not moving with the clutch pushed in when I shift into 2nd and 4th gear it really rattles loud. I can only assume it is some bearing inside the transmission, but need to have a bit more surety as to the problem. I know, I need to do the clutch however i don't know if the transmission is going bad or is that noise in the clutch area.
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