Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Possible 4.0 To 5.0 Conversion?
Mar 12, 2014
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
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I fit explorer rear axle to my 2wd ranger. But now I have fromt x-member with front suspension and front drive axle from explorer. Can I fit all this stuff to my ranger?
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My sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
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Went to work one day and went to put my truck in park and it went as far as reverse. It has alot of play in the shifter. I have had a couple of people look at it and said that they would not touch it because of the air bag. I am not afraid to work on it myself if I just knew what to do. I am a single mom and on a budget, I would rather do it myself.
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97 automatic 4x4 SXT 4.0L. 4Hi will engage, but when I shift to neutral, press foot on brake, and shift to 4lo, nothing happens. No light, no sound. Occasionally it will make a sound, and even more rarely will light up, but it does not feel like 4Lo is engaged even when indication says it is. I pulled the shift motor and replaced, as well as verified that the transfer case could be shifted to 4 hi and lo by using an adjustable wrench. I have not put truck on stands yet, but I'm pretty sure 4 hi is truly engaging. I did attempt to engage with shift motor connected electrically but not mechanically, and it shifted. What is keeping 4 Lo from shifting? If it's a vacuum issue, wouldn't 4 hi not shift? I did check the vacuum lines and the vacuum reservoir and they seemed to be okay.
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
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I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
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Besides being spark plugs and wires and/or a bad coil pack, what other things could make it so i have misfires on cylinders 4 and 6? going to replace the plugs and wires later today when they get to my house but i just want to know what other things i could be so I can evaluate the potential repair cost and should the wires for cylinders 4,5, and 6 be under or over the intake manifold? I bought my truck used and they are currently under the manifold i think it would make more sense to have them over personally.
I have a 1997 Ranger 4WD with the 6 cylinder 4.0L engine. I can't remember the codes that it tripped at the moment but i think one might have been the 304 code not sure though.
I tripped the 300,304, and 306 code but don't know about any others i remembered what codes i tripped the other day when i had it scanned
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My son's 97 2WD Ranger with 2.3L, 5 speed, no a/c, basic XLT standard cab.
I was using his truck because my 93 Ranger was getting a new starter on it. I drove to work with no problems, then after work, it started just fine and drove a few hundred feet to a stop sign where it promptly died. I was able to start it again with some effort and drove to the next stop sign maybe a quarter mile away. Truck died again, but this time it would not start. Towed it home about seven miles and its in the driveway now. The previous owner had new Motorcraft platinum plugs and wires installed, new fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned, all about 11,000 miles ago. My son has had it for about 6,000 of those miles.
It felt like it ran out of gas, but the gauge showed about 1/4 tank, and I put about 3 gallons more from a gas can into the tank with no change in being able to start it.
Here's what I've checked so far according to my Haynes manual:
Turned key and listened for fuel pump and it seems to go on just fine.
Checked fuses and they are fine.
Swapped around relays in distribution box with no change
Checked resistance at coil pack and it was about 1.7.
Checked resistance at one injector and it was about 1.7.
Checked inertia switch and it did not need a re-set.
I don't have the ability to check fuel pressure.
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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1997 ford ranger 2.3l ...
I have my ABS light on steady and never goes away. This all happened when I had a friend work on my truck. Long story short, it seemed like lost the RABS diode under the hood and replaced it with a 'hacked' 7.5amp fuse. I saw this and was very disappointed.
So I first changed the speed sensor and nothing. I did the RABS code test and received 12.
My questions is whether or not that hacked fuse is causing all of this, and if it can cause long-term damage to the electrical system. I don't mind non-abs at all, but more on the long-term affects.
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I have a 97 ranger with 3.0 it runs great but once you drive it and shut it off and go to restart it it will turn over but not start it used to start once I let pressure off the fuel rail, but now is a little harder to start when it does this but it looks as thou coolant comes out of the reservoir when this happens I think it might be coolant sensor or thermostat problem causing the timing to advance until it cools but then again why was it starting when I released pressure from the fuel rail and also I don't believe my check engine light works...
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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My friend's 1997 4 cyl ranger died and won't start. Cranks fine with no codes on OBD2. Was running fine before it died.
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I have a '97 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed, as the title says... my radio does not work. It has an original cd radio and I had installed an aux cord. After I installed it I could only get a select amount of radio stations, last week I had went out of town so I didn't drive it at all, I came back and there was what seemed to be no power to the radio at all. No display, no sound. Only the lights on the radio controls (pre-sets, volume, seek, etc.) I have checked the fuses, pulled the radio and checked everything from behind and still nothing. Could the radio its self be bad? What else should I check?
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I've been fighting some issues with the truck and decided to do a compression test to decide if I want to try to keep 'Old Yeller' alive or not. I'm all for working on it until I have to dig into the lower end of the motor. I rented a compression tool and the results were a little shocking. I did this test with a slightly warm motor, fuel pump relay pulled, all spark plugs pulled and throttle @ 100 %. Motor turned over 10 times for each cylinder. I even moved all the rubber o-rings on the tool up on the threads to make sure I was getting a good seal.
Cyl 1 - 40
Cyl 2 - 0
Cyl 3 - 0
Cyl 4 - 80
Cyl 5 - 0
Cyl 6 - 60
Needless to say I didn't even bother doing this wet. My only real question is can this be close to accurate. I drive the truck daily. 160k mi on it.
I'm fighting the dreadful P0171 and P0174 codes and after a couple cycles I will get misfire codes. Its low on power (hard to keep @ 70MPH with some wind) and gets 10MPG right now. However it starts and runs and stays consistent (even though it rumbles like it has a nice cam in it).
Is it time to put Old Yeller down ? Are these compression results even remotely accurate ?
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1997 2.3 Ranger w/ 160,000 mi. Every few months it won't start, sometimes after just having been running fine. Symptoms:
-the dash lights will be dim or off completely
-the chime will be softer than normal
-the headlights will not work, or be dim
-the starter will sometimes briefly click, sometimes crank once, sometimes do nothing
-the emergency flashers will sometimes click much faster than normal
-if during one of these "episodes" it does start, the battery light will sometimes flutter on and off, and the meter will flutter a little higher than normal. The next time I stop it, it typically will have the same problem.
-it will typically start if i get it jumped
My battery, starter, plugs and wires are all fairly new. On occasion, when it is having this problem, and I am trying like crazy to start it, if when I turn the headlights on and they are no longer dim, it starts right up and runs fine.
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997 2.3 TruckSo this has been an issue for a long time, actually one of the issues I had when I got the truck 3 years ago. After it rains or is extremely humid, my truck does not want to start. Sometimes it will after cranking and cranking and cranking for a while (stopping to cool the starter of course) and other times it won't start.
This time around, it won't start. I cranked it for a little bit and had my dad check for spark while cranking. No spark at all. What should I start looking at? Coils, crank sensor and wires are all newer. As mentioned before, EEC has been replaced. Could it just be bad luck and I got a crap crank sensor? All fuses and grounds are good.
No codes, either except for the occasional misfire code that I get for some reason after pushing in the clutch to decelerate from a higher RPM. It'll fall and start to misfire, but clear up when taking back off.
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My ranger has a 3.0 v6 engine it idles high and accelerates on its own sometimes. Sometimes its more often then others. I turn my key about three times thinkin its reseting the computer and stop it and it does. But I keep hitting a dead end and don't know what to do about it.
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Where the cabin air filter is located on my 97 Ranger. I purchased the truck used one year ago and would like to check or change if necessary.
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I'm having a bit of an issue with my 97 ranger 4.0 auto 2wd. I have an vibration which from a stop up about 10 mph feels like wheel hop not bad but you can definitely feel it it and over 50 mph the whole truck starts to shake again not bad but you know its there. the truck sat last summer it was my dd till a bought a new car and now vw is buying it back ill be driving the ranger in the mean time. I have been trying figure it out for a few months but no luck i have put new tires , front rotors and rear drums , drive shaft support bearing ( 2 pc shaft) new u-joints and a used boneyard shaft with new u-joints as well, checked the tail shaft bushing which had about .008" of play.
Pulled the drums Off today and checked the axle bearing for play only .004" of play pulled the diff cover and checked for carrier play as well as pinion play but can't find anything. I'm at a loss here and looking for other things to check ... Don't know if its possible that something in the transmission is loose it was rebuilt about 75k miles ago I was going to stop and talk to the trans shop to see what he thought (its a 5r55e ) ....
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