Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Heater Blower Motor Resistor Rusted
Apr 4, 2013
I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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I've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
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I have a 1996 Ranger that the Heater/AC blower only works when the outside air temp is above 45 degrees. I have replaced the relay, and the blower motor resistor. What could be causing this?
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Where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
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I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
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When I turn on my heater full blast the most god awful squealing commences. Where to start spraying the grease?
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I recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
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Where blower resistor is located?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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I have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
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I replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
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1997 2wd, 4.0 - As you can guess it runs pretty bad at idle. It has O2 heater circuit codes for all 3 sensors. I'm leaning towards the ECM because the 2 heater wires are both hot with the key on. I unplugged the computer and turned the key on and just one wire is hot. Looks like the ecm is supposed to ground the wire to turn the heater on, but it's going hot instead?
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My actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
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My Caravan heater fan runs only on high speed. Am I correct in assuming that this is caused by a burned out heater fan resistor? If I am correct, where is the heater fan resistor located? I understand the 1995 to 1997 Caravan and Voyagers are all alike. I looked behind the glove box and didn't recognize anything as being the resistor. The fan cover is there but if I took it off, I wouldn't know what the resistor looks like!.
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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99 Explorer Blower motor quit working. Disconnected and hot wired to a battery and blower motor worked. So I know it is in the switch and/or wiring. I need this truck everyday so going into the shop is out. Live in Northern Mn and the temp was -15 degrees. So as a temp fix what does everybody think of running a wire from the battery to a switch inside and then to the blower motor and then to a ground. Would have a inline fuse. If this will work what gauge wire and what amp fuse would you use. Its getting cold without heat.
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