I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Mazda B2300 with 175,000 miles that has an intermittent check engine light. When I check the code it is always P0420. If I leave it alone long enough the light usually goes out. The truck had the catalytic converter replaced about 5 years and 60,000 miles ago. I also had the muffler replaced in October, but I was getting this code prior to the muffler replacement. I recently bought a scanner that can monitor the fuel trim data and noticed that the long term fuel trim is generally between +16 and 18%. I replaced both oxygen sensors last week and cleaned the MAF sensor, but today I got the CEL again. The LTFT is also still the same as it was before I replaced the O2 sensors. My truck doesn't use any noticeable amount of coolant or oil and I'm not really sure where to start.
View 8 RepliesTruck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
I've been getting a P0133 trouble code on my 2001 Toyota Corolla and am stumped as to what is causing it. I've ruled out the obvious stuff: I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and can vouch for the lack of exhaust leaks, since I replaced the entire exhaust system myself a few months back and checked again for leaks after getting the code a few weeks back. I haven't replaced the spark plugs yet (they're definitely overdue) or cleaned the MAF sensor (I've heard that these could be the culprits) and will probably do both this weekend.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Saturn SL2 recently showed the "Service Engine Soon" light. I brought it to Autozone for a code scan. They told me it is P0133, and could be due to a bad oxygen sensor. The only two pieces of info I have is that:
a) my car recently passed emission test mandated by my county, and the Service Engine Soon light comes on about a week AFTER the check
b) my car usually runs fine with no problem, only that my wife notes that it starts to "shake" when I drives over 65MPH or turns on cruise control. I have noticed a slight drop in fuel economy - from 22.5-24.5MPG to around 21MPG
Not sure if it is worth the money for the repair. If it were indeed the O2 sensor problem, what might happen if I don't replace it?
I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
View 7 RepliesSo here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
What airbag code 29 on a 2001 ranger means? I have not seen that number on any code lists. I triple checked the code and it is 29.
View 9 RepliesJust checked SES code and read P0162 I think. Stated rich fuel mixture bank 1 & bank 2 (3.0) Is this an O2 sensor or MAP issue?
View 8 RepliesI am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
View 1 RepliesI've been getting this code for a while. Changed the Purge solenoid and valve, replaced the hose from the canister to the two units, didn't change the hose to the intake.
Is there anything else to check? Could it be a bad gas cap? the one on the truck is a replacement.
1994 Ranger xtra cab
4x4
v6 4.0
5-speed
113K miles
Just bought this truck. When I test drove it no "check engine" light came on, but after purchase driving home is came on and then off many times. It only comes on at high rpm/speed. I have my trusty ODBII scanner but realize that this 1994 was pre-ODBII. How can I figure out what the CEL is about?
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
View 2 RepliesWent to work one day and went to put my truck in park and it went as far as reverse. It has alot of play in the shifter. I have had a couple of people look at it and said that they would not touch it because of the air bag. I am not afraid to work on it myself if I just knew what to do. I am a single mom and on a budget, I would rather do it myself.
View 6 Replies97 automatic 4x4 SXT 4.0L. 4Hi will engage, but when I shift to neutral, press foot on brake, and shift to 4lo, nothing happens. No light, no sound. Occasionally it will make a sound, and even more rarely will light up, but it does not feel like 4Lo is engaged even when indication says it is. I pulled the shift motor and replaced, as well as verified that the transfer case could be shifted to 4 hi and lo by using an adjustable wrench. I have not put truck on stands yet, but I'm pretty sure 4 hi is truly engaging. I did attempt to engage with shift motor connected electrically but not mechanically, and it shifted. What is keeping 4 Lo from shifting? If it's a vacuum issue, wouldn't 4 hi not shift? I did check the vacuum lines and the vacuum reservoir and they seemed to be okay.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
My 96 4x2 2.3ltr is throwing this code (P1443). I clear it and it comes back a few cycles later. I will fix it next but won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks. What if any affect does this code have on fuel mileage and or engine performance/power?
View 3 RepliesMy son has a 99 Ranger where the airbag light is flashing code 32. I had the same code on my F350 and it was the clock spring. What it could be. It is 99 Ranger with 2.5l, auto trans, 2wd, no CC.
View 2 Replies2008 Ranger 3.0L. I am trying to figure my next step in diagnosing a #4 misfire. At regular speeds I really dont hear it or feel it, mostly at idle warm or cold. 3.0L with 275,000 kilometers on it , reg oil changes.The CEL is on, but not blinking. Pulled a p0304 code. I then changed out the bosch plugs I had in with ford plugs and wires. The #4 plug looked okay just bigger gap. Still got the code.
I hooked up a sparkplug light to the coilpack and did not see any missing flashes . Changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure,all within specs. Changed the oil and did not see anything in it. I read that it could be an injector but I have to remove the intake manifold to get at it. I also read to check compression. I figured if I have to take off the manifold I would put a new injector in, instead of switching them around. What is the most common cause for this code?
Today my Check Engine Light came on for the first time in years on my 1998 Ford Ranger. It has 363,000 miles on it. But the engine was changed about 150,000 miles ago. It's a 2.5 automatic. It runs good and has no problems until today. I was leaving a shop and when I started up the truck the Check Engine Light came on. It wasn't idling bad but when I went to take off it wouldn't hardly move. I wasn't even able to keep driving. So I stopped and turned it off and restarted it. Then the Check Engine Light was gone and it ran fine. I scanned it when I got home and it a Pending code of P0446.
I've never gotten this one before. It said something was wrong with the fuel vapor vent solenoid open or shorted. I've never replaced anything on the evaporative emission system except a hose under the hood 3 or 4 years ago. I've had to change the fuel pump a couple times. I've never had any wiring issues. I've never hacked into the wiring. I've owned it since it was new. Is it likely that solenoid is failing or the vapor canister is shot? I don't need this to happen again because even if it's in what was called limp mode. there's no way I could've driven it home like that. I couldn't even pull over. I was lucky I was still in a parking lot.
So... p1451. Vent solenoid. I pulled the part and put 12v to it. Opens/closes just fine. Checked resistance on part, 55ohms like it should. Pulled vent canister, no apparent leaks or blockages. I traced wires back to cab. Cannot locate anybroken wiring. I looked up the pinpoint test on this dct and all thats left to test out is the pcm itself. Before I buy the obd2 scanner with all modes I wondering if I am missing something.
I did find a broken ground wire in my searching. Frame to body. My thoughts on a bad ground are that that would cause more than one monitor to register one fault code.